Recent content by tadawson

Carbon, maybe . . . but seems more likely that if it is that old and has not been maintained that it needs a valve adjustment.

"I feel like rhe governor assembly inside the engine is bad because every time i start the mower the governor rod seems tight or stuck and I need to free it. " At that age, the oil seal on the gov shaft may be breaking down and causingit to stick. I'd go tbere before the gov itself, since if...

That would be a GX120, same basic engine as on the HR215, the GX140. Gov is easy to get out, but you do need to open the engine, if that is the case. Based on age, the seal may have just turned to goo, hanging up the rod. Good news is the sealmis on the outside . . . had mine down for rebuild...

Honda engines used to be known for soft oil rings (not sure your model). Rebuilt my 1989 GX140 several years ago for excessive oil use/smoke . . . cylinder was still within "new" spec, new rings/seals and been perfect again for at least the last 6 and still going steong . . .

10 volts on a 12 volt starter battery is dead as a doornail . . . . It should read at least 12, and 12.5 or so if fully charged. I expect that you will see the battery voltage drop to just about nothing when you feel the solenoid click. Try charging first, but a 2 volt loss often indicates a...

Yes and no. Friction will get them to turn somewhat, but under load, the blade to crankshaft coupling will slip without the key. (A solid connection vs. friction only).

Looks simply like the bolt fell out, and since (as others note), the blade assembly acts as a flywheel, it may be a cause of the no-start, or a symptom. In any case, it looks like you should be able to reattach it by replacing the one bolt, so it would seem that that would be a cheap and easy...

So, why didn't you fix the harness damage first? Seems like an obvious starting point, and it being cut concurrent to this problem seems like it would be screaming at you . . . (or did I miss something?)

I know I am a licensed pilot, and can read both Continental (Lycoming is the same) and Cessna's docs, and with both, you are told to generally avoid full RPM/throttle other than takeoff . . . and I trust them a lot more than these derps . . . (who I also note are from the eperimemtal world...

Ironically, though, cooling efficiency likely gets *worse* at higher throttle settings. Friction and combustion heat rise faster than the throttle setting (friction is square of speed), and cooling duct air resistance gets worse, as does fan efficiency, so cooling airflow gets disproportionally...

Not sure where you get this, but as a private pilot that has been flying "piston engines vith variable pitch props" that is false! The *ONLY* time you run full throttle and high rpm is takeoff! As as you get to cruise, you set a prop rpm and manifold pressure for cruise, which is well below full...

I think the confusion when an engine is at full speed, by definition, that is *NOT* idle in any way, shape, or form! I think a better choice of words may be "sputters under full speed, no load, conditions", and the confusion is not helping.

Surging, I have found, is almost always the pilot jet.

Sounds like your tipping it over caused something to get into the valve guide/stem and cause it to bind.

Not certain the intake on your equipment, but anywhere the air flows between the carb and the head - many engines have a separate manifold with a gasket at the head and carb ends.