Recent content by tadawson

Yes and no. Friction will get them to turn somewhat, but under load, the blade to crankshaft coupling will slil without the key. (A solid connection vs. friction only).

Looks simply like the bolt fell out, and since (as others note), the blade assembly acts as a flywheel, it may be a cause of the no-start, or a symptom. In any case, it looks like you should be able to reattach it by replacing the one bolt, so it would seem that that would be a cheap and easy...

So, why didn't you fix the harness damage first? Seems like an obvious starting point, and it being cut concurrent to this problem seems like it would be screaming at you . . . (or did I miss something?)

I know I am a licensed pilot, and can read both Continental (Lycoming is the same) and Cessna's docs, and with both, you are told to generally avoid full RPM/throttle other than takeoff . . . and I trust them a lot more than these derps . . . (who I also note are from the eperimemtal world...

Ironically, though, cooling efficiency likely gets *worse* at higher throttle settings. Friction and combustion heat rise faster than the throttle setting (friction is square of speed), and cooling duct air resistance gets worse, as does fan efficiency, so cooling airflow gets disproportionally...

Not sure where you get this, but as a private pilot that has been flying "piston engines vith variable pitch props" that is false! The *ONLY* time you run full throttle and high rpm is takeoff! As as you get to cruise, you set a prop rpm and manifold pressure for cruise, which is well below full...

I think the confusion when an engine is at full speed, by definition, that is *NOT* idle in any way, shape, or form! I think a better choice of words may be "sputters under full speed, no load, conditions", and the confusion is not helping.

Surging, I have found, is almost always the pilot jet.

Sounds like your tipping it over caused something to get into the valve guide/stem and cause it to bind.

Not certain the intake on your equipment, but anywhere the air flows between the carb and the head - many engines have a separate manifold with a gasket at the head and carb ends.

If it's a generic replacement that is not necessarily correct for your engine (again, an issue at times with aftermarket), you may just fail over and over. I don't understand the reluctance to clean the original. It's cheap, quick, and pretty easy. Bottom line is that it is going lean under...

Clean the origimal carb and give it a try. Aftermarket parts are pretty much a crapshoot, and your new carb may be defective.

Mine would die every time ever since new if I try to slam the blade clutch in when it is cold. (Once warmed up, no or far less of a problem . . . ) I find nursing the clutch just a bit when it just starts to engage to let it rev up a bit before pushing it home helps. Yeah, I know the manual says...

Check your valve clearance as well.

The compression release being off def. explains the kick when starting - got to wonder if it has been that way for quite some time. You may get lucky and resolve both problems at the same time!