Recent content by slomo

Need to load test the ignition coils. Also could be a safety switch causing this. PTO engaged,,,,,, Sand smooth the ignition coil mounting area for a solid coil ground.

Do as Rivets suggested above.

Oh my gosh. You have a dangerous machine there. Hope your cars and trucks have brakes LOL.

This too.

I would load test the battery and clean/check + and - connections.

7 years old now. I would: 1.Clean the cooling fins and engine block. This is a yearly task in your engine manual. Neglect this and you are looking at engine damage. 2.Pull the head/s and de-carbonize the cylinder/s, head/s and valves. Neglect this and you will get cylinder bore scoring...

Valves should be checked or adjusted yearly for a good running engine. Doesn't take much time to slap a feeler in there and see what you have. That is a used mower. Nothing new about it. Valves out of spec will cause issues. As the others said, check your valves out.

You've found the best mower forum on the internet. Welcome to you. What kind of mower do you have?

Wondering on the original coil, you might try polishing up the mounting area to provide a good ground again. Might make that coil fire off??.

Right, isn't there a purpose built compression tester for small 2 smoke engines?

These people.

From what you wrote, to me, sounds like a bad key switch, starter solenoid, starter, or + and - battery cables. Could have a bad cell in the battery. Need to have the battery load tested. New doesn't mean new anymore.

Maybe the blade clutch is worn/wearing out. Not providing a crankshaft lock up for full blade/engine speed? Is there are cable adjustment for the blade brake?

Bad link to that pdf file. https://www.hydro-gear.com/aad36e81fa_sites/hydro-gear.com/files/BLN-52441_P23.pdf[

Welcome to the best mower forum on the interscreen. When starting a new help post, provide mower and engine numbers. In this case the experts will need your mower numbers. Sometimes model numbers are different than the mower part number.

98% of people overlook the grounds. Initial diagnostic testing always starts on the + side, for some reason??. On mowers you need to check the engine mount to mower frame bolts are present and tight. Some mowers will install the ground cable from the - batt post to the mower frame. Relying on...

So now with Super Swampers on the mower, how are you going to level the deck?

How was this check done specifically? Visual? Hand tug on the cable? Might need to do a load test, voltage drop check see. Circuits need to be loaded to verify proper functioning. You have 28VAC from the charging coil. Tried 3 regulators and tested grounds. To me, from what you wrote, the...

I have one similar to the Craftsman. Works good too.

Make sure the throttle cable is not turned on the shaft, effectively shortening the throttle cable, causing the high idle and turning head. Whew...... Poor English at its best LOL.

Or a video of it on youtube and link it here.

Hope you used a piece of plate glass and some 220 and 600 grit wet/dry paper. Needed to flatted the head and block area. No doubt they are warped. And obviously torque the head bolts back to factory specs. And while you are at it, clean those filthy engine cooling fins and engine block yearly...

Some gas stations will turn the pump off if you use the wrong colored can around here. That would be a costly repair if you gassed a marine Diesel engine LOL.

Take a bread tie. Strip off the vinyl or plastic covering, leaving a thin wire. Probe all the tiny holes in the carb body and any jets accessible. Spray with carb cleaner and SAFETY GLASSES. I will inform you that if you get that spray in your eyes, it burns like fire. Don't be all cool and try...

Plugs are glued into the carb body. Can be pretty tough to remove. Remove using brute force and a gentle hand simultaneously. The one that fell out needs to be reintalled and sealed. They make Indian Head Shellac which glues and seals these into the carb body. Glue the plug in then seal the...

Replace the primer bulb and gaskets. Don't over torque. Just a gentle snug is all you need.

That should tell you your primer isn't working right?

Do you park any cars in the garage? Most have gas in the tanks.

Much cheaper that way.

Not normally. Just ad a zip tie or order new as you mentioned. Float level looks good to me now. Use silicone spray next time when installing the red seat. You need to look behind that round welch plug. SAVE the round plug cause you will need to reinstall or order new if available. If you...

That is your throttle plate. Regulates air flow into the carb.

Confirmed blown head gasket. Order a couple spare gaskets. That engine is a know head blower.

I don't think so. You've done most of it yourself, already. Reach inside the carb throat. The emulsion tube - if your carb has one - can be removed but pushing down in the center of the throat. You should see a brass tube barely protruding from the floor of the carb throat. After looking at...

Both videos don't load for me. I'm not a googal user at all. Like to keep all my useless personal info to my useless personal self.

Just guessing, Briggs made more than one 20hp Intek twin. Anytime you start a help post, you need to provide mower and engine numbers. In your case, we need the Briggs engine number to figure out what you actually have. And welcome to the best mower forum on the interscreen.

Surging again, is most lilkely a dirty carb or fuel delivery issue, gas cap vent or fuel hose. Could be a vacuum leak as well. Your carb has a low speed or pilot circuit it uses to start and run the engine at low revs. THIS little fella' has tiny jet holes. Might be covered with a flat, round...

It's where the fuel goes into the carb.

Yours looks right but confirm the seat is installed proper. "This carb uses a replaceable rubber seat, visible in red in #7. A new seat is installed with the grooved side in first, away from view. The needle mates with the chamfered hole of the seat, which faces outward". The float height CAN...

Amen Bert. Engines start off the pilot or low speed jet. These use tiny pilot jets and clog easily. Same as the emulsion tube you showed in your pictures. What you've shown looks clean. Need to clean what you haven't yet. Hope you kept the original magneto. All you had to do was de-rust...

Use what you like and are comfortable with. I get it. Just saying they are a never ending expense compared to gas. Far as the environment goes, most likely not better. Coal is filthy for the air and nuclear is even worse. It's all good!

Spend more time and energy "rigging" it up than repairing it. LOL Just wait till the screwdriver gets welded to the starter and burns the mower and his house to the ground.

1300sf backyard with a lawn tractor? Do you park in the middle, turn the blades on, turn the blades off and park the mower? You really love your couch time LOL. (y) You probably back it into the yard so you don't have to turn around LOL LOL. :p

Just stating the obvious. Batteries will fail in 1-3 years. Not if but when. Very expensive to replace. Gas mowers will last many decades longer. Electricity is typically generated from nuclear, water or coal. Unless you have a huge solar grid in your backyard. To me, battery mowers offer...

Could be several things. Safety switches, dirty carb and fuel tank, never checked valve clearance, vacuum leaks and low compression. Not related but never cleaned the cooling fins and block or de-carbonized the cylinders, valves and heads.

Does the engine crank properly as in turning over now? Was the new battery load tested? I hear it's new but new doesn't mean good all the time. Did you verify good fuel flow AT the carb? Pull the fuel line and drain into a glass jar. Should have good fuel flow there. Is there a fuel pump on...

OEM Honda parts are obviously better than Chinese Gambler Series parts. We see it here all the time. Chinese parts won't last like Honda parts will or should.

Surging is a lean condition. Look for vacuum leaks on both ends of the intake pipe and carb mount. The intake pipe has a flat gasket. Also look into the engine block where the pipe mounts for a part of the intake tube down inside the engine. I had one do this. There is an air smoothing plastic...

Agree. Most likely a dirty carb.

Dirty carb. Flush the fuel tank and line while you are at it. Agree with hlw49, verify choke is operational. This went from a battery, solenoid and stater issue to a filthy carb.

This is about to be a 13 page saga. Another sad day......

We take care of our own on here LOL.

Hey loud mouth, Might want to read the entire post before spouting off. His carb is below. His carb doesn't have a float.

1.Flywheel key check. 2.Pressure test carb, tank and lines. 3.CLEAN exhaust port and remove that pesky window screen slash forest fire maker. 4.Most likely issue, replace the carb with OEM. Or clean the old and rebuild that little fella'. 5.LOAD test the ignition coil.

Why recommend Motor Honey when the guy said the sticker requires 5w-30? Puzzled??

Replace it. Is there a port to ad some lube? Probably won't help anyway. Depending on the linage, the way early machines had trans issues. Heard corrected on the newer models.

Get the manual for that monster. Call Snapper or see if you can download online. Has to be some simple tweak knowing Snapper. Is this your first 0-turn? You know those are just as you describe. Hydros are fast acting. They will turn and stop on a dime'ish.

You know what's coming next. Ready guys?? Remove the metal fan shroud. CLEAN that filthy engine to like new conditions. This is a YEARLY to-do in yours and every other mower engine manual. Behind the muffler and so on. Any oily dirt slime areas need to be gone. Those oil slicks insulate the...

Love it !! Compressed air works great too. First tool is great for getting under flywheels and such.

Usually used mowers have some running issue. Most are mowed into the ground till they won't run anymore. On every new to me used mower, I look EVERYTHING over. Valves are out of spec. Fins and block are filthy. Carb usually fouled up. Carb linkages been "played" with. 3 oil dumps till she has...

Check the fins on all new to you used mowers LOL. Great tip Richard!!

Check this out. GREAT site with tons of info. https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_vacu-jet_vert_auto.asp

You are correct. I was off my meds that day LOL. I corrected my mis info above. Good catch Richard.

Or that. If this has a foam air filter, better clean with dish soap and hot water. Let dry and saturate with SAE30 oil ONLY. Gently wring out in a red shop rag to remove excess oil. I don't know exactly what you are working with. Post up some pictures here or a full walk around video on youtube.

Someone needs to find the spec on the charging coil. Looking for rated amperage output spec. That IN5406 diode is only rated at 3 amps of current. Hope this doesn't have disco headlights and ghetto blaster boom boxes on it. Sounds like the wire protection is removed. Follow the charge wire...

Carb is dirty.

Remove the air filter cover and filter. LOOK into the carb throat. Hit the primer bulb. Should see a small squirt of fuel come from the bottom center of the carb. What do you see?

I bet fuel lines are cheap for that one.

She's a diaphragm beauty. Air pulses from the oil sump are pushed towards the carb to pump fuel into said carb. How about pulses in engine intake vacuum draw the pump diaphragm inward. A spring returns the diaphragm outward. A cup covers the spring to prevent damage to the thin rubber diaphragm...

Never owned or used one. I do see a lot of help request posts on here about them FWIW.

On a mower that old I would do: 1.Clean and rebuild the OEM carb. This is your most likely issue. Also check for vacuum leaks. 2.Flush fuel tank and install new fuel line and filter if you have room. 3.Pull the head and de-carbonize the cylinder, head and valves. This is in your engine manual...

At minimum, use a double rated or more, amperage diode than what the charging coil puts out. Charging coil puts out 6 amps for example. Diode needs to be 12 to 50 amp rated. Most have 2 diodes to share the amperage load I think. If you have 2 diodes in there, they should be wired in parallel or...

Look at the plug.

Remove and clean out the fuel tank. Make sure you have a good flow AT the carb. Drain into a glass jar for CSI evidence. Should have a nice continuous stream of fuel. Crack gas cap and see if she will start.

On a multi thousand dollar lawn mower? What do you do for fuel leaks? Cool Whip container? LOL You guys are awesome!! (y)

None come to mind. Belts are way cheaper when the drive system fails. It's not if it will fail but when. Hydros can be/are $$$ to repair.

Why is this in the pro talk section?

Watch a few videos like the ones below.

Confirmed but the Briggs site I use didn't pull it up. StarTech has a cool dealer power portal site he uses.

To me, a non expert on Tech engines, looks weird. Wide on the blower fan/flywheel and narrow on the crank. I think I can see the narrow groove on the crank. Looks to match the key from what I can tell?? That would be a no-no. That little oil in WD will attract dirt and grit wearing parts. If...

You have dealer access, I don't. I use the Briggs engine info site below. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html

Got to get me a few of those. I recall those from a while back. All that free hp I am missing out on. Will help a lot at $3.25 a gallon thanks to Biden.

That mower is definitely a keeper. Do what you can to get her running. Hard to find a better mulcher than that one. THAT was back when Toro made good pushers. Definitely a dirty carb or fuel tank issue. Something is limiting fuel flow. Remove fuel tank and flush it out. Install new fuel line...

Take it to an auto parts store. They can load test for free. Make sure it's a load test and not those internal resistance testers.

Great pic. In future posts start with that. We need engine and mower numbers to help. Still I can't pull it up on the Briggs site.

Okay but disconnect the kill wire and see for sure. Mow with it disconnected and raise the deck several times. Might be some bad insulation on the kill wire shorting out the coil when the deck is raised? Shot in the dark...... Kill wire disco'd, mower should run till the fuel tank is dry.

Can't pull up your engine code. There is a 121602 but no 121601.

Need your engine number to determine what you are working with. Briggs 500 tells me nothing specific. Briggs could of used several carbs and such. Have you determined you have fuel in the oil? Have you pulled the oil dipstick and smelled for fuel like I suggested?

Which one? Detail details........ Guessing the positive? You have to be descriptive to help US help U. Bet the ground path is total rust. Remove both battery cables. CLEAN down to fresh clean metal. Little 220 sandypaper or wire wheel. Betting both battery cables will need replacing. Wires...

Has to be an E3 plug as those add an extra 69HP at the blade tip. Check them out guys!! And let's not get into K&N filters. Front of my mower won't stay down from all that extra torque. Grass looks funny.

Have you tried any of these yet?

"Most" splash lubed push mowers are not meant to cut anything over 15-20 degrees. This is a splasher. Long story short, splashers are for mostly flat ground. Ski slopes require a full pressure lube or similar engine.

Ethanol fuel, sitting outside with large temp swings daily? Say early spring it's 40F in the morning and 85 in the evening? Yup water is a coming. Yup at steep angles gas can/will get into the oil. VERY. Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel.

Voltage reg have a good CLEAN ground? Negative battery cable in good shape with clean bare metal connections? Does the voltage reg output read 14vdc connected to the battery? Wires flipped when you get a - reading? And - 21vdc not connected to anything?

Had another gentleman swear I was nuts about him washing his mower for 35 years on here.

Check to see if the plug is black. Choke plate might be sticking closed or partially closed.

Wonder if the ignition coil kill wire is grounding out at said angle? Agree it shouldn't immediately die if you raise the front wheels. Bowl should have enough to run for 30 seconds or so. I would remove the coil kill wire and see how she runs with her feet up.

Look on youtube.

Ok reread what was stated. Shifting gears. Look for low carb float level, gas cap trick or the like. Something limiting fuel flow at said angle. Fuel tank low in gas?

It's a racing slick front wheel issue with no traction. Front wheel drive and slopes. Think about it. Has nothing to do with losing power if the mower is fine on flat ground. Front drives are horrible especially if you bag, gets even worse. Rear drive is where it's at.

Glad she is fixed. Very unusual fix I must say.

The original pic is what happens when someone can't afford Joe Biden's gas prices. Making people search for cheaper fuel. Little 3-n-1 Oil and some gauze pads. Will buff right out.

Have you seen the price on a new Ferris mower these days? You can get a nice F-250 pickup for the same dough. It's a freaking lawn mower...... LOL

Welcome to the forum Pfireproof.

It's not a search engine like goo'gal or duck and cover. More like everyone without ad blockers getting bombarded with ads waiting on all the ads to load from all those different servers on the interscreen.

How often is the genny ran? Most just sit around all day in the blazing heat varnishing up the fuel. How did you clean the carb? Spray some carb cleaner on the outside only? Put it in the wife's dishwasher or ultrasonic cleaner? Use any round carbide files on those brass jets?

Guessing you might have an intermittent carb needle and seat issue. I would replace with Briggs parts and call it a day. Not much money either. Hope she stays running good for you.

Another set of eyes is worth a bunch at times. We are all getting older and crap, where are my reading glasses again??? LOL

I see the Snapper name on it. Not really a Snapper mower of the old tried and true era. Looks like a Toro Recycler, Craftsman or various MTD mowers.

No issues at home or work. Check your gateway for congestion or reboot. Run an ad blocker for sure. I prefer Firefox as I despise goo'gal.

Yipee!! She's a runner. Okay, that filthy engine is next. Remove the engine shroud again and clean all that oily dirt mud pack muck off the top of the engine block and cooling fins. This is a YEARLY procedure in your engine manual. All that dirt and oil will insulate the block and fins...

Post up your mower number. A height adjustment lever shouldn't be too much I wouldn't think. Let's find out.

Yup now that gas is $3.15 a gallon thanks to Sleepy Joe Biden. Not talking Cali or NY either. Was $1.69 for E-10 when Trump was in office. F'ing Democraps.

Carb needle is obviously passing excess fuel. I have one that pressure tests just fine. Funny but when you turn it over and install on engine, it will overfill the carb bowl and leak on the deck. Needs a new needle and seat like yours. No other way to foul plugs in 20 minutes other than a carb...

Batteries are batteries. Can fail at any time. New these days doesn't mean much like it used to. I would go gas if you plan on keeping the mower over 5 years.

1. Hire spray service for one year. Make sure they come back if you still have weeds between services. This will get your lawn turned around for not much fuss. 2.Then you can treat yourself. Pre-emergents are a must for grassy weeds like Dallis and crab. Ortho has good stuff at home e' cheapo...

As stated above.

My opinion is it's more about grass cutting torque than hp.

Yes it is. Depends on what grass you have. I have a full yard of Tifway. The tiny leaved cousin to Bermuda. Ultra dense and tough to cut when it gets tall. Talking about one mower wheel setting too high bogs a 190cc Briggs. My Snapper Commercial with the Honda GXV-160 is way worse. It will lock...

50/50 mix of 20 Mule Team and plain white sugar. Wipes out all bugs. They go for the sugar and get some borax with it. Great for crickets and ant hills. Sprinkle a little around your foundation and in the garage. Over the next few days you will be sweeping up dead critters.

Buy a new one maybe? Donnyboy has a video of fixing the solder blob end on a steel cable.

Not looking good. Looked far as I could on the "in r screen".

Just put one of these on top of the coil filled with ice. You can mow all day long. Easy right?

Most people lack the common courtesy to come back and say Thank You! Most want everything handed to them on a chrome platter. And have a $1300 cell phone, these peoples......

Pictures, videos posted on youtube and linked here and mower numbers are needed.

Why the need for mulching blades with a side slinger chute? Also batteries degrade over time and charge cycles. Next year you might not even get it all cut till she dies. One bad cell will pull down the entire pack. I hope you mow first as far out from the house as possible. So when the...

More like a bad carb needle and seat that was stuck open allowing fuel to get into the oil. Bad fuel pump wouldn't push any fuel. Unless bad meant it pushed out 20psi and overwhelmed the needle.

Ammonia in a spray bottle knocks all bugs down for the count. Much cheaper than brake cleaner too. It's in most kitchens for cleaning everything. Works great to cut grease and oil. Costs like $1.50 a gallon last I checked.

Remove the carb. Turn it over. Pressure test the needle and seat at 7psi. Needle should hold 7psi for 30 plus minutes or more. The below video is on a motorcycle carb. Still has most of the same parts as you have. New or nearly new parts don't mean much if they don't work.

Woot Woot!!!!

I saw that too. Still if you proceed with the order, looks like they will take your money at least??

Lot of time people over torque bolts on the carb and intake manifold. Might want to reseal these areas. Also might need to true up the mounting flanges with a piece of plate glass and 220 to 600 grit wet/dry paper. Most likely your carb is dirty.

Carb is cacooned. Wonder what those pesky cooling fins look like? Ask your friends to take a look for you LOL.

Briggs Store seems to have it. Takes you to a pay screen. ??? https://www.briggsstrattonstore.com/briggs-stratton-part-312503GS/

Remove top fan shroud. Look for the flywheel key and the groove it goes in. Key shouldn't be mangled in any way. The groove should line up with the key slot on flywheel and crankshaft.

Scrub do you have an air filter assembly for a 3.5hp Briggs Horizontal crank? Kind that bolts to the carb No center bolt that goes into the carb throat.

Make sure the choke is not stuck on all the time. Someone has done some engine work so things have been messed with. Next check carb needle that is sticking half open or all the way open.

Ignition coil going bad. Was this a real Briggs OEM coil or some Chi-sneeze low dollar special?

Mix it with your used motor oil and Diesel mix. Brush it on your wooden stockade fence or deck. Smell will go away in a day or two. Great way to recycle all the items above.

What was so funny? I too like a good joke. What did I miss Scrubcadet10?

Would be fabulous to live in a rust and corrosion free neighborhood like you. Guess I need to move.

Has the coil been checked? Might want to look at that. :p

Recommended to NOT wash a mower. Rust, corroded wires and connectors and so on. Power washers could get water in the oil sump with all that pressure. Key not working, corroded grounds to name some more. Use compressed air, ScrubCadet 10 brushes, baby bottle brushes, degreaser then blow off and...

Please repeat saying this for those in the back.

You are most welcome Larry. And thank you for saying those words. Rare to see a person come back and say thanks. You are a CLASS ACT Larry!! (y)

Hope this is it. Check oil level on ALL mower slash OPE engines prior to using. Even engines that you know don't consume any oil. Never know when they might start drinking on the job and burn up an engine. Only takes about 26 seconds. Not a big deal. Oil is cheap too.

Has nothing to do with roots. More to do with clearing off a years worth of dead grass (mulching) that NEVER goes away. Leaves, weed seeds and so on. Main thing is it helps warm the soil so grasses like Bermuda come out of dormancy earlier. Let's the sun hit the soil more warming it up.

Not your issue but as others said, should be done say every 6 years depending on how much you mow. That is de-carbonizing the cylinder and valves. It's in your engine manual as a to-do thing. That carbon insulates the parts slowing heat transfer leading to over-heats. Plus those carbon chunks...

Even pulled the head and de-carbonized the cylinder and head? Checked/adjusted the valves? Cleaned the cooling fins? Vacuum leak check? You said you cleaned the carb and changed all gaskets. Perfect time to check for vacuum leaks. You've been in there fiddling with it. Verify your primer is...

Looking at the picture again, the seat and handlebars were disabled. Handlebars have a safety switch right? Reason you lift up vertically when stopping? If so not one but two were hijacked.

I reread what I typed LOL. I was WRONG for what I typed to CaptFerd. Single or twin wasn't stated by the OP. My apologies to CaptFerd. She's a single cylinder per Cub wanter.

LOVE IT !! If you look at the pic, that big spring wants to center the rubber drive disk from its tension on the hex shaft. The lever has no notches to keep it at a certain speed. If I slow it down in speed, rubber disks moves UP in the pic. Spring pulls the rubber drive disk back to a vertical...

Need to figure out why you don't have 12 volts at the small starter solenoid control wire.

Starter solenoid or bad grounds. Could be the starter too. Post up a video of it on youtube and link it here so we can see and hear what it is doing.

Check for vacuum leaks. This Intek has a manifold that runs to the other side of the block from the carb. Check both sides with WD-40. If engine smooths out or smokes you've found your leak. Should be done anyway to remove carbon in the cylinder and head. Notice the last 2 items in the below...

And idle at full throttle too. Clean the cooling fins while you are at it.

Still nothing about fixing your mower engine.

Dirty carb - again.

Tires shouldn't drop the revs that low. Obviously put more of a load on the ol' girl. I use an old Suzuki tire pressure gauge I've got. It only goes up to 25PSI. It's very accurate down at low pressures.

Think ol' Cub Wanter is a fisherman guys. We provide exact instructions on how to fix his mower. He replies back with a pizza recipe.

Last week we installed water hammer arresters in the house plumbing. Toughest part was the water line feeding the ice maker to the frig. The middle toilet was pretty easy. Doe you guys cover your roof whirly-birds in winter time? To try and keep some heat in the attic?

Swap the PTO over. Blades could be dull. Valves out of spec. Engine overheating. Improper oil. Governor and or throttle springs messed up. Dirty engine block and cooling fins. Cutting too much grass at one pass. Cutting wet grass. Dirty air filter. Dirty fuel tank. Deck is clogged...

Are you trying to cut too much off at one pass? Grass overgrown?

What does your mower manual say for proper tire pressure? My Snapper is 14 front and 10 rear. Check your manual and set accordingly.

From what I've read, OP ignores suggestions and does his own thing.

Check for 12 volts DC at the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position. If not find out why. Do you have mice around your place? Going to need some mower and engine numbers to help you. Welcome to the forum Larry.

Put your fingers on the green wire. Fondle the wire all the way to the end of it. Easy right? You might post up a mower and possibly engine number to help diagnose your wire issue. Hard to help you without mower details. Welcome to the forum!!

Are all the OEM Briggs coils gone now? What's with Mr. Bozo and his "compatible" coils? Is this a Chinese clone coil? Put the meter back in the drawer. Lock the drawer with a TIG welder. Coils either work or they don't. Wasn't this already covered on the last page?

Thank the lord the head didn't fall off while mowing. LOL Only needed 15ft lbs. Aluminum block and heads......

Take it to a mower shop if you are not going to troubleshoot and fix it. Maybe the Briggs guy can fix it over the phone.

Can't see the trees for the forest.

They make tape measures, micrometers and calipers. Check them out. Not many people have 20-35 y/o hyunda mowers like yours and know off the top of their head the 0-ring size.

Spark and fuel. Check them out.

You guys are getting rowdy in here. Thread closed.

You got it you lucky devil.

So did Phil die from 19 or another diabetes like condition? THAT is never stated in all these covid deaths. Most all people have either high blood or diabetes for starters.

Look at that screen over the flywheel. It's clogged with mud. Engine can't get any air to cool itself. You got more issues than fuel lines. That engine/mower is filthy. You'd better pull the fan shroud and clean the block and cooling fins ASAP. Is this a mud bog racing mower kids toy?

Linux Lite. Free and VERY easy to convert over from Windoze. From what I've found in Linux distros, Linux Lite is the most "window" like OS out there. Or are you talking about landscaping software specifically? If this is the case I have no clue.

You still have a dirty carb or impeded fuel flow from the tank. Engine is running lean causing your surge issue. It wants more fuel as you found out by covering the carb with your hand. Remove the fuel tank. Flush it out then blow out with compressed air and EYE PROTECTION. Replace the 15+...

At 15 y/o mower with a 3 y/o engine. Doubt Briggs can help as everything is long out of any warranty. What did you clean and HOW did you do it? You are not trying to fix much on this. Sounds like you want to talk to someone on the phone about it only.

Briggs and Stratton 5431K. Works great for removing oil and fuel. https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/products/briggs-and-stratton-5431k-oil-fluid-extractor-pump

Start the engine and run at full 3600rpm. Take a multi-meter and measure the battery voltage in DC. Should be over 13-14 volts DC. Are you idling the engine a lot? If so, precious air cooling to the engine, oil pressure/slung oil and charging the battery will be nil. Not a good idea to idle a...

Thank you for saying this. Not many have the gratitude to come back and say thank you for the help. (y)

My advice, look for an older Snapper pusher. Snapper hardly never changes anything on their mowers. If they do, that change stays in production for decades. Meaning spare parts are all over and cheap. Your kids kids grand kids will be mowing with it. 10 years of use on that TB mower is all that...

Not spindle related but how is your tire pressure? Should check it often for a good cut.

You need to load test the coil.

Belts have microchips in them to prevent mower theft. Not really but coming to a mower near you LOL. Some super genius will add this great new feature to sell more mowers. Those 0-turns are not cheap. If I had a 0-turn, I would hide a GPS tracker on it. I sold a push mower to a nice fella'. He...

I Googled that model. Can't find a picture of what you have. Post up a picture on here so we can tell for sure what's going on. Clean your engine cooling fins while you are at it.

Call McMaster Carr. Tell them you want an O-ring of said size that is fuel rated. Buy an O-ring kit if they have one. Use 100% silicone grease when you install all O-rings. Best grease I've found is Magic Lube. You can find it in swimming pool supply stores or online. This stuff is super tacky...

No help from me as that is a safety item.

THAT is a critical service that eludes most all people. If you bag check the fins more often. Say in the spring if you scalp the yard, definitely remove the shroud and clean away. Scalping is a filthy job. Make the block and fins like a new engine. Use Scrubcadet 10 nylon brushes, degreaser...

Remove the carb solenoid. Snip off the plunger tip and wire holding the tip. Reinstall solenoid. Free.

Blades are normal. Post closed.

Check for spark when hot. Need a 1/4" plug gap or proper tool to test this. Possible bad ignition coil or kill wire grounding out.

1.Possible vacuum leak around carb or intake. Parts get hot, metal swells creating leaks. 2.Here's the big one - engine over heating. Remove metal engine fan shroud. Clean all around the engine block and cooling fins. Look behind mufflers and so on for dirt, grass and oil. Under the...

What was this post originally about? Too many hijackers with not enough to do at home/work. Shoot that's me LOL.

What process was used to check the fuel cap? Don't think this is your main issue. Curious what tool or method was used.

New Chinese coil?