Recent content by SamB

The minimum wage guy is under pressure to get the customer out as quick as possible, good job be damned, and strip the plug? No problem, they have a tray of oversize plugs to self-thread into that stripped out hole! That just takes a minute or so and no one is the wiser. (usually!) Worse case...

Speedy oil change places clued me in on that practice, as they strip out so many drain plugs, they need a way to put in a self-threading oversize plug, WITHOUT loosing a drop of the new oil!

I,too, would to have that information to better tailor my information offered, as the mower may be a totally different machine that I'm guessing it is. Then I'd defer to someone better versed on that particular machine. We all love to help, but the OP has to help US,too.

Uh Oddjob, "remove the transmission cover and inspect the gears"? Did you open the chain case, perhaps? Not a good idea to open that 'banjo' looking chain case if one isn't well-versed on Snapper drivetrains. Nothing I can think of in the chain case that would change ground speed. Just politely...

"thumb" typing and texting are the ruination of proper grammar and spelling. As long as 'they' can understand one another, that's all that matters. It seems being educated doesn't always work! Cursive? Yeah, right! :)

First off, just what mower do you have? Did I miss that info, perhaps? But on with the show! Disregard anyone's advice about 'gears. If what you have is the classic Snapper Rear Engine Rider, RER for short, the only gears in it are the sun gears inside the chaincase.not changeable. If you have...

Rustoleum Professional Safety Red is what I use on my Snappers with good results. I prefer the quart cans of it, using it with a Harbor Freight cheap HVLP gun.Their cheapest guns spray as good as their more expensive ones. I don't like the spray head on the spray cans, but it is a handier way...

I have a couple of these RER Snappers and have owned several more. I have fixed just about anything that can or could go wrong with these great rider mowers. The OP had me a bit confused about a 'drive pulley' as there isn't a drive pulley on a RER Snapper. Drive plate maybe. Or bladedrive...

It's been my experience, the best way for me to get the line into the tank, is to cut a long taper in the line end and start it into the tank hole, then reach in through the cap hole with a pair of needle nosed-pliers(I use forceps) and pull the line in the correct amount, then cut the taper off...

To add to your prudent advice, AutoDoc, as I have learned in the past, and as you have stated, the charging system isn't meant to charge a dead battery and the stator will melt down when running with a bad battery, requiring replacement parts$$. Charge the battery with a charger or replace it...

Yes, easy peasy, if one likes to invert their mower over a drain pan and hope to not fumble it. Those pesky mower handles can into play, messing with the inverting action. Wear gloves,too. Inverting the carb and fuel tank can give rise to other issues. I had B&S easy Drain spouts on my drain...

My apologies. I didn't click on your link and study it. Changing out an NO switch to a NC switch is sometimes needed if the part uses NO switches. User protection needs to be taken seriously. One never knows who is going to use that OPE down the road. Defeating safety features puts the one who...

On one of my older ZTR mowers, I did away with the 'module' and wired all safety switches in series so if any one of them were in incorrect position, open or closed, the engine quit, the blade brake clamped down and the seat occupied switch killed everything also.. A separate grounding circuit...

This works for me. Cheap, too...

This should be a nice challenge for you. You can convert the spark plug hole to an injector port. Deutz used a simple cam operated 'pump' for their injector.