Recent content by MParr

This will give you an idea. You will need to confirm the bearing part number. The actual model number and serial number of your mower will be helpful in finding the bearing part number.

Is the old blade an OEM Honda blade? Is the new blade an OEM Honda blade?

I will go out and fire my mower up every week or two during the off season.

I'm not surprised. The DC mowers aren't real popular in my area. There's one dealer in a 100 mile radius. I see more homeowners using them than professional contractors. Grasshopper will probably fill the vacuum around here. The GH is becoming more popular in my area. It's hard to compete with...

Thanks. That's what I determined. Although, I didn't have the Husqvarna number.

Walbro WT-625

Today, I will determine exactly what carburetor my particular PP220 Type 4 has. While I'm putting on fuel lines, filter, and primer bulb, I will refurbish the carburetor. I don't think an aftermarket unit would be a good fit, as they seem to be for several models. Their quality is questionable too.

You are fortunate to have an older SRM225 with the grease port. Newer units have sealed bearings and no grease port.

That's where the grease goes.

Is there a bolt on the side of the gear head? https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/new-models-srm-225-doesnt-have-grease-point.73439/

I was thinking Type 4 because the dash 4 at the end of the serial number. It need a little work on it. It won't hold prime. I'll need the usual fuel lines, fuel filter, and bulb. It may need a carb kit or new carb, depending on what it looks like when I get it opened up. It's been a darn good...

Okay guys, I'm having trouble identifying exactly what type Poulan Pro 220 saw that I have. The decal on the side says 38cc. The tag near the handle indicates a 42cc. I assume it's a Type 4. Attached is a picture of the tag.

Listen to @Rivets Get it to the dealer. Make use of the warranty while you can.

At this point, using Valvoline Restore and Protect 10W30 would be worth a try.

You may be creating more problems than you need. First off, the wheel assemblies will be heavier. Secondly, you may need wheel spacers to keep them from rubbing on the frame and body.

Instead of turning the engine from the PTO end, remove the engine shroud and turn it from the top. This will give you the opportunity to clean the engine cooling fins.

500 hours? Have the valves been adjusted? Initial adjustment should have been done at 300 hours.

If you could provide the model number and serial number of the machine, that would help.

The second dealer seemed to have fixed the original problem. See the original post. He says that he put an additional 150 hours on it after the repair. Blow up the second picture. Do you see the oil and debris buildup on the cooling fins?

It could be any number of things. Throwing parts at it isn't the answer. Have you checked the wiring to the fuel solenoid? A broken or chaffed hot wire to the solenoid will definitely cause this sort of problem. Is the engine cooling fins clear of thrash and buildup? Trash in the fuel tank can...

You may want to take it back to the dealership that fixed it. If it's the Exmark that I think it is, it's just a dolled up Toro Timecutter. They have that dumb reverse/brake switch box that can mess up and cause all sorts of problems. They also use the cheapest safety switches that can be found...

So, it's mowing at the 2 1/4 mark? What is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the blade tips?

https://powermowersales.com/Ariens_c_9888.html

Wherever you decide to buy from, make sure you have the engine serial number handy to confirm the parts. https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/shop/html/pages/products/Kohler_Cylinder_Heads15418.html Look at the notations.

I'm seeing part numbers 32 818 01s 32 818 02s Please verify.

Parts Tree lists the old numbers and superceded numbers. https://www.partstree.com/models/kt735-3077-kohler-7000-series-engine-made-for-mtd-24hp-17-9kw/04-cylinderhead-breather-3/ Verify through Rehlko

Parts Warehouse show before and after serial numbers. https://www.partswarehouse.com/Kohler-KT735-3077-MTD-24-HP-17-9-kW--s/277420.htm?asymID=4332|221772 Same part numbers

Input the serial numbers and you will probably get the correct part numbers. https://partnersportal.kohlerpower.it/customer/servicepartscatalogue/

I'm seeing the same thing. Have you tried Rehlko Parts and put in the serial number of the engine?

It sounds like your deck settings are out of sync with your actual cutting height. Try adjusting the blade height to match your settings.

What you have found appears to be results of poor maintenance. A new engine will be around $2,000. For a little more, he can buy a new mower. A Bad Boy, Hustler, or Ariens would be good choices...

Do you have a extending magnet that will fit in the dipstick hole? If you do, stick it in there and see if anything comes with it. I would also cut open the oil filter and look for any unusual debris. I wouldn't think it would be to your advantage of going any further if you find unusual debris...

He's already running a grass flap. You are correct about the mulching kits. They aren't worth the hassle or the price.

I've tried the G6 blades, the G3 blades, and OEM Gravely mulching blades. The G3 and OEM Gravely mulching blades will have less blow out. I just slap on the Gravely mulching blades and run with the chute open. I have to go over it more than one with a chute blocker.

That sounds like a good plan. Do you know if there is any loose metal floating around in the crank case? It is a 5 year old engine and you don't know the hours. If it's over 400 hours the valves should have been adjusted by now. I just did the required 400 hour valve adjustment on my Kohler...

Cut open the oil filter and look for metal debris. At the very least, it's going to need new valve guides, new valves, new push rods, valve lapping, and head gaskets.

Before spending money on a mulching kit, try using Gator style blades or OEM mulching blades with the grass flap shut.

New fuel lines are fairly cheap.