Recent content by GearHead36

I have a Champion generator, which, of course, doesn't get used that often. The manual has 3 storage procedures. One for short term (up to 30 days), one for mid term (30 days to 1 yr), and one for long term (more than 1 yr). I always use the long term procedure. I say "always", but so far...

@JimP2014, what is your goal here? Do you want to "fix it right" and keep this mower working for another 10 yrs? Or do you want to just get it fixed enough to work for now, with plans to run it until it dies? I understand each position. It may not be worth it to "fix it right". If you DO want to...

@ILENGINE, I'm no expert in the matter. I'm not a petroleum engineer. I AM an engineer (electrical) and a gearhead (my dad was a professional mechanic), so I'm not totally clueless. But also, my career as an engineer has taught me that I don't know everything. For the assemblies that get filled...

I'm having a hard time understanding how this could be. I'm not saying that it's impossible, but I'd like to see proof. I hope that's not the case. I recently replaced a spindle, and filled it with Lucas Red n Tacky.

I'm a big fan of getting the right machine for a given property. I usually change my equipment every time I move. Sounds like you got the right machine for your needs.

I'm going to disagree that air cools better than grease. Grease will conduct heat way better than air. Wheel bearings have to be removed to be greased. They typically don't get greased through zerk fittings. Any assembly with a zerk fitting (ball joint, tie rod, etc) gets filled until grease...

Grease not getting past sealed bearings.... In this video, this guy disagrees that bearing seals will block grease from getting to the bearings, and he demonstrates his findings. The seals CAN block the grease if you don't apply grease correctly, and he shows how to do it correctly. The trick...

But then you go on to refute my claims of "way more power".

I don't recall, but I doubt we had racing oil. This was the early 80's, and we were changing it every race day. Probably should have changed it every heat.

You DO understand the concept of racing engines, right? High lift cams, bigger valves and valve springs, ported intake & exhausts. Steel cranks. I think the rods were aluminum. Not sure about the pistons. There were 3 classes. Stock, stock appearing, and modified. Stock is stock, except you...

Like I said, not a complete valve job. And these were all-out racing engines. The only OEM parts were: the block, head, lifters and spark plug. The crank, cam, & piston were all high end racing parts. Racing carb & intake, too. Straight pipe exhaust. The engines turned WAY more RPMs than stock...

It wasn't complete valve jobs. I didn't replace valve guides, and I didn't cut valve seats or valves. I was a teenager, so this kept me out of trouble.

I disagree. I used to race karts with 5 HP Briggs flathead engines. I ran open class, and the engines peaked out around 6000 RPM. At the end of a race, compression would be noticeably down from the start. I would have to basically do a valve job after every race. I'd remove the head and valves...