Recent content by Freddie21

Hi All, got the Craftsman DYT4000 with a hydro trans. It won't push manually in reverse and very hard in forward. I pulled the brake outside caliper off, cleaned all the parts and reassembled. Removed any grass from the trans and brake area. Brake disk is loose with pedal up and turns with...

Got to the top of the trans and cleaned it off. Seems to be a bind when moving for to rev in the mechanism. It does not have the debris upgrade. Next is to pull the vari-pulley and see what's under it. Main belt is worn but not cracked. Don't know if that would cause the pedals not to go down.

Thanks again, I'm gonna try and get to the top and pull the linkage off to see if the trans shifts or binds. I researched and came up with a few part numbers, but did not check for availability. I don't think I'll open it.

Thanks ST, I got the trans info from the parts manual. The second belt made me think of a CVT, but the engage\disengage arm threw me. The CVT's I'm used to seeing have direction selectors. Should I consider this junk or a winter project?

The problem starts after moving forward first. Then the revere pedal won't go down. When it does, it goes low enough to catch under the foot rest. I can fix that by bending it to the left a bit. The binding seems to be on the top of the trans.

Hi Tiger. I have the belt off the motor as I am replacing the ACR. All pulley, except the trans (can't see yet) are in fine shape, belt too, but I will replace it. Machine is clean all the way back. The linkage arms all are good, no binds. Connection to the foot pedals was wobbly, so I...

Been a while since I've asked for help. That's a good thing. I have an Ariens 19hp, 42", model 936083, prod=960460061, ser 041615A33927. It's a hydro axle that I have never seen before. All plastic (2002 vintage) with 2 drive belts. Hydro Gear T2-AABC-1X2B-1GX1. Lots of miles, but moves...

Remove the gas line from the carb and put it in a container to catch the gas. If you can, remove the pickup from the tank, or disconnect the line at the top of the tank. Fill a small bottle 1\2 full of gas and submerse the line in it. Crank the engine and compare the output of the pump to...

I've seen a broken spindle, or bent deck, cause the blade tips to collide and make a banging noise. Check the tip of the blades compared to each other. All should be level and at same height. One may be bent. Compare the heights and levelness of the spindle pulleys.

No where have I read that you have gotten spark, unless I missed it. If no spark THRU the spark plug, then disconnect the kill wire and see if it returns. If so, you have a switch\wiring issue. If not, replace coil. I'd replace the plug too.

I agree with gearhead. I have two steering wheel zt machines and they perform much better on the slopes. No dog-tracking and the front end stays on the ground. My slope is so much, I have to mow up and down. I got rid of my Deere 318 after falling off it twice. If you can find a used Cub...

Before running again, check the oil. If over full, or not, there may be fuel in it. If so, drain, replace filter and oil. Remove plug and spin the engine. Plug may be wet and need to be replaced.

Ignore my last post, didn't see one about loose trans. Many trans are mounted with the 4 bolts at the axle and 2-4 thru mounting brackets to the front and sides of the trans. They all must be there and tight.

Belt should only be loose when brake on. Check for something dragging the belt. Check that the pulleys are not bent and are level with each other. On remaining pulleys, feel inside for and ridges or rough spots.

In my case, I have seen a valve seat being raised and most recently, a rocker arm cracked and not raising correctly.