Recent content by deckeda

That may explain why it worked the second time, given the 50/50 chance you'd get it right if 180 degrees is the worry. I still don't understand much of this, given that all the parts appear to be symmetrical. Splines, shafts, gearset, all of it appears mostly non critical in that regard.

And now we appear to be basically done. Just a final leak check while under load is needed. Took the motor off again tonight and once more opened up the back end and gearset. The instructions for setting the timing are incredibly simplistic to the point of not making sense. You get about two...

Got seals replaced and all back together except I waited on adding the brake assembly. I wanted to check for obvious leaks first. Replaced an O-ring on the back although I think the leak was on the output side. Replaced the axle shaft seal, dust seal, and O-ring for the output shaft side. We...

I took some more pictures in case someone else has a similar mower and wants a reference. Gravely's parts manual has a diagram but it's not the entire story. backside of drum: The backing plate secures to the wheel motor with 6 socket head bolts. Gravely's parts manual claims M6. On this...

I rented a $100 7-inch 3-jaw gear puller from the auto parts store and initially had no luck. I was hammering it pretty good with the impact up to the point I thought something would break and more than once I removed it and double-checked the gear puller jaws to make sure they weren't caught on...

For some dumb reason I think I got rid of my 4' black pipe a few years ago. I'd hate to think what they cost now. I employed a small pipe in the cradle of another jack stand to prevent the hub from rotating backwards. From there I tapped the breaker bar with a ~ 3lb plastic sledge (Estwing...

Ariens/Gravely doesn't publish a service manual for this model. Our ultimate goal is to replace seals in a wheel motor. I've never seen a how-to for that but have the service manual from Hydro-Gear. So I'll ask how to remove the castle nut that presumably secures the brake drum and/or hub. Yes...

Exhibit #369 for why it's impossible for me to keep any riding mower completely functional for an entire mowing season ... because the cheapest of simple parts will bring the machine down to its knees with nary a warning. And then a few days might go by before you can diagnose. And then there's...

Yep, saw that earlier today thanks. The doc is pretty sparse actually and applies to several within the series. So I'd have to first remove it and follow whatever directions it says for the actual motor. My goal would be to disassemble as little as possible, not a full teardown necessarily...

Thanks, Mark. If I elect to replace the seals I'll keep that in mind. That's my first consideration, because disconnecting and reconnecting the hoses seems to be straightforward from initial research. I am curious however where you found there to be differences in serial # or year for this...

Google brought me here ... as far as I'm aware only Gravely refers to motor oil as hydraulic fluid. Look for 15W50 (in my case that's what the owner's manual specs) and what you find "motor" oil for sale. My interpretation is that it's a lube when used in an engine, or a power conveyance when...

Am I better off installing a seal kit or buying a new wheel motor, in terms of reliability? The motor is part # 04915500 and the seal kit (Hydro Gear 706262 HGM P SERIES) if of course much cheaper. 440 hours on the machine. (I've never replaced seals on anything involving hydraulics. I'd need a...

I don't have the TriCycler mulching accessory, but I never bag either (not that I have any sort of bagging system, which I don't.) I realize that regular clippings are already a form of "mulch" (albeit not a consistent one.) Anyway, that's my question.

On the 265, 285, and 320 (any more?) the release for the transmission is the flat lever that flops around on top of the transaxle. Its fulcrum is on the transaxle and the lever is arch-shaped. It's activated by pushing DOWN on the lever. Not up. Not left nor right. (At rest, the lever makes...

The tech manual (service manual) for my tractor isn't explicit enough for me except in one instance where they state to not mix fluids. It says to take a look at the color. If it's honey brown, add Hy Gard. If it's red, add Type F. The book doesn't say at what serial # they switched from one to...