This is one of those "urge to kill" deals....as it turns out the guy told me he thought it had another spring(besides the governor spring". I looked at it, set the idle speed with the throttle cable housing clamp...and sent him on to build fence.
Thanks guys for pitching in to help,
bartles
I realize this is not an application discussed in a lawnmower forum, but I need some parts locator assistance:
The B&S engine powers an auger, its model number is 126M02-0122-F1. There should be a spring between the throttle control link/lever and the butterfly shaft that balances with the...
I'm working on Hustler with a blurred ID tag...I think,
s/n 1B01OH20162
What's the model number? Year built?
Kawasaki engine code: FR651V-AS05-12
Thxs in advance,
bartles
Well congratulations on your post....now you know what it feels like!:p On that 1 1/4" wrench....go to the back door and pitch that thing as hard as possible....from my childhood experiences working on draglines and bulldozers, using that thing is a lot like work!! Thanks for all your help...
I seem to end up with a bench full of tools at the end of a mower repair. I generally have to use a combination of 1/4" and 3/8" SAE and metric sockets and combination wrenches too.
Is it a good idea to just have a mower repair tool box so I can narrow down the number of tools with just the...
StarTech convinced me the better tool to confirm cylinder pressure is a "leak down test". Harbor Freight has such a tool. Compression pressure along can be deceiving. ..."been there done that"
You might want to see if you can use the jet from the OEM carb in the new carb you recently installed. I've had to do that in carbs I replaced due to excessive corrosion because of bad gas/without fuel conditioner.
Follow up....replaced the head gasket(1) and all was well until the new fuel pump failed to pump...and yes, it is a Amazon knock off. I took the diaphragm out of the new pump and replaced the failed diaphragm in the old pump...probably from excessive crankcase pressure.
Question: Are the OEM...
Well I did a leak down test... suspect cylinder, at 80psi inlet, is 20psi....there's you sign. Opposite cylinder is 75p Leakage is coming from push rod area and oil fill.
Yep, slower means more methodical!! I need to get knowed up on "modified" testing.