Recent content by Andi

I am going to change the relay and make a new negative battery cable. I'll report back tomorrow AM at latest...as soon as I read voltages again...thanks again

Theoretically, if I made a jumper from "A1" to "S" to "B" with (or without) a ground strap...if I plug it into the ignition switch, shouldn't that work? Even though all but one has been replaced, how do I by-pass the interlock switches and the seat switch and brake switch safety circuits?

It's grease...I have checked all of the connectors. In a perfect world...where should the battery negative cable be bolted? It is to a frame hole now, but I do not know where it came from. The engine grounds off the harness are connected to the engine on the right side...they are perfect. Why...

I have three switches...all the same. There is a bit of dielectric grease more so on the switch. The harness is brand new, and I carefully compared every connection before I installed it. I thought about direct wiring the switch, but when the key is on, I have the proper voltage, so???

ABOVE: Little black wire in harness with acc. outlet, red batt connector wire and yellow starter solenoid wire BELOW: I have 3 ignition switches...all OEM, This is how they seat. The copper flares out, so they do not sit flush but they DO make contact My new Coils...white wire off so as not...

I did exactly that and I had 12.32 V on the mounting screw. under the seat? I'll upload a few pics

I found this post...same tractor, different wire problem...BUT if you look at the third picture the little black wire is sitting below the guy's finger. I believe he got the wrong harness but his black wire didn't go anywhere either...

I think you're right...I have 12.34 volts everywhere there is supposed to be voltage. the battery negative bolted to the frame solid connections on both ends. the cable looks good, but I could make a new one with 0 or 00 cable? That black wire still has 12.34 V with key on. One thing I didn't...

Okay... I hooked everything up as I should...nothing. I have 12.33 volts at the starter and the yellow wire and both sides of the solenoid but the starter won't engage...thinking I need to replace it. But I was also wondering about the ignition switch (they do not seat all the way) If I make a...

I should have clarified. My picture was a very crude example of how the battery cables were connected. The alligator clip was only an example of the negative cable, the red wires were positive and the green was showing where the yellow start wire was. They are not the actual cables and wires. I...

Okay... PLEASE forgive the crude example. The only thing I am sure of...the batt - was on the left the batt + and the starter wire was on the right, and the small wire (purple in pic only...yellow on tractor) was on the tang It came from the dealer that way. What I didn't know...there is a small...

It's the inertia drive starter. One bolt on the bottom where the batt + attaches. And yes, I always use two wrenches for items such as this.

I thought it was odd, but both battery cables were indeed connected to the solenoid. On the positive side, there was also the cable that went to the starter. I pulled the battery out due to low temps and I am going to make new cables. If it does not start when I put it back (I'll put batt - to...

Yep. That is the schematic, and as soon as the ice stops, I'm going to replace the solenoid...it won't even click. I have a three-position and a four-position that both bench tested good. BUT... What initially messed me up on the schematic was the 2 hour meters and 2 accessory outlets. I only...

I am new as well, and I appreciate all the help I can get. I am the queen of 24V negative bus systems...and a tractor is kicking my *** :)