917 295350 Craftsman Rototiller Fuel Supply
- Thread starter NCBoy
- Start date
Thank you so much for the great information! The engine numbers are in a photo, as well as some longer views. The videos you sent are more than excellent, and from Bald Eagle 242's commentary and additional video, I think I have found the actual problem keeping this engine from starting and running. When I sprayed in some ether, it only popped at the intake. Didn't try to fire. I now realize it's likely that the intake valve is stuck open. I suppose we will need a head gasket. Again, thank you!
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Not so much that the intake valve sticks open. More likely the valve face and seat are worn which basically, the valve clearance closes and get held open.
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On an additional note:
You are dealing with more than just a carburetor problem. Possibly it has a stuck or very worn valve valve from year of sitting.
The popping back through the intake on a flat head engine is normally associated with a lack of proper valve lash issue where the valve face has worn into the seat from years of running.
My advice is to search around for a small engine DIY person that knows what you have and how to deal with it. Amazon or eBay cannot fix this, only experience and the right tools will revive this.
Edit: Manual: http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/E...210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf
Last edited:
Read post #14.
Best to not start taking things apart until you have done further testing or as post 14 suggests.
Can you do a compression test with a gauge?
If no compression gauge try this to get an idea if it has any compression before you remove the head.
This is how to get an idea if it has any compression without using a gauge.
Best to not start taking things apart until you have done further testing or as post 14 suggests.
Can you do a compression test with a gauge?
If no compression gauge try this to get an idea if it has any compression before you remove the head.
This is how to get an idea if it has any compression without using a gauge.
Sorry, I was out yesterday, and the rototiller is in the neighbor's garage, so not sure I can get to it today. I didn't think it was relevant until now, but he told me that when he got the machine it started and seemingly ran for 10 minutes and then died, with this problem. This is why I think (hope!) it's just a stuck valve. I do have a compression gage, and that's the next thing we will check. Thanks so much for the manual. I had no idea these were so complex, removable valve seats, etc. If it's more than a. stuck valve that we can unstick or clean up a little with the valve still installed, it will be up to him whether to go farther because that's the end of the road for me.. Of course he bought this cheap at auction to use this Fall! Will update when I know more.
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Hello N.,
If there is a will, there is a way, but never be willing to just walk away (Old military training)
I actually still have the old B&S Master special tool kit from back in the early 80's and have never used many of the tools specified in the service manual because customers did not want to spend the money for anything too complicated.
If it is a stuck valve, the carburetor and tank need to be removed carefully as an assembly then the cylinder head needs to come off and then the side access breather cover to get to the valves. If gaskets still look good, reuse them when you go back together.
From there, tap the valves. rotate the engine and keep spraying the valve stem areas with WD-40 until you can rotate the engine and the valves open and closed freely. After that apply a few drops of engine oil to the valve stems. Check the valve lash according to the manual.
If there is no valve lash it gets more difficult.... If the valve stem tips need to be ground lightly to correct the valve lash, you will have to remove them according to the manual and use a valve spring tool. (A pair of flat blade screwdrivers will work but it is tricky to get the valve keepers off and back on.)
Once reassembled, change the oil (use 10w-30) and run it at high RPM for 15 minutes. Let it cool down and repeat the running cycle a couple of more times.
What likely happened is the valve stems were dry from sitting and the engine was not run long enough for oil to get splashed around good inside the engine to lubricate the valve stems
If there is a will, there is a way, but never be willing to just walk away (Old military training)
I actually still have the old B&S Master special tool kit from back in the early 80's and have never used many of the tools specified in the service manual because customers did not want to spend the money for anything too complicated.
If it is a stuck valve, the carburetor and tank need to be removed carefully as an assembly then the cylinder head needs to come off and then the side access breather cover to get to the valves. If gaskets still look good, reuse them when you go back together.
From there, tap the valves. rotate the engine and keep spraying the valve stem areas with WD-40 until you can rotate the engine and the valves open and closed freely. After that apply a few drops of engine oil to the valve stems. Check the valve lash according to the manual.
If there is no valve lash it gets more difficult.... If the valve stem tips need to be ground lightly to correct the valve lash, you will have to remove them according to the manual and use a valve spring tool. (A pair of flat blade screwdrivers will work but it is tricky to get the valve keepers off and back on.)
Once reassembled, change the oil (use 10w-30) and run it at high RPM for 15 minutes. Let it cool down and repeat the running cycle a couple of more times.
What likely happened is the valve stems were dry from sitting and the engine was not run long enough for oil to get splashed around good inside the engine to lubricate the valve stems