1996 B&S 15.5HP engine issue

[Auto Doc's]

Thank you Doc. Makes perfect sense on the shim and I can see it did have a little wear on it. McMaster Carr may have one similar.

I did see that repair on YT by Teryl and have seen a lot of his videos over the years. It seems as if others have also copied his idea as they are using the same procedure and 10-24 set screw, I may go to a 10/32 set screw. It is not a problem for me to do as I am setup with small machine shop for the vette diff's I build, so I should have everything here. I haven't put a straight edge on the head yet but I will, just to make sure it's not warped. I can set it up in the Bridgeport if needed but I think it may be ok. The head gasket was still good and one I replaced several years ago.

Hello G.,

A correct size roll pin punch or a shoulder punch with a shop press works nicely for getting the guide out of the head pushing towards the top and then when you place the guide back in position (A hammer will work also but be careful). There will be an age line from the old oil resin on the top portion of the valve guide that will indicate where it should be in relation to the head. Both guides set about even otherwise.

The careful part is the drill stop depth, threading the hole and setscrew placement.

A flat section of tempered glass and 600 grit paper is what I have been using to relevel aluminum head for years. A Ron Popell rotisserie door to be exact, but I have used the glass kitchen table top a couple of times (Don't tell the wife)

Don't reuse a modern graphite coated head gasket once it has been run for any amount of time. These are not like the old "flat head" engine foil side gaskets from years ago.

I've never had to have a head milled and hope I never have to.

 

[gtr1999]

Hello G.,

A correct size roll pin punch or a shoulder punch with a shop press works nicely for getting the guide out of the head pushing towards the top and then when you place the guide back in position (A hammer will work also but be careful). There will be an age line from the old oil resin on the top portion of the valve guide that will indicate where it should be in relation to the head. Both guides set about even otherwise.

The careful part is the drill stop depth, threading the hole and setscrew placement.

A flat section of tempered glass and 600 grit paper is what I have been using to relevel aluminum head for years. A Ron Popell rotisserie door to be exact, but I have used the glass kitchen table top a couple of times (Don't tell the wife)

Don't reuse a modern graphite coated head gasket once it has been run for any amount of time. These are not like the old "flat head" engine foil side gaskets from years ago.

I've never had to have a head milled and hope I never have to.

Thanks for the info.
The last head gasket I used was the foil gasket and it was still good when I pulled the head. Are they still available?
A side note I was going to lap the valves but my handle is 25 years old and the suction cups lost the grip. I went to 3 parts stores to buy one and they had no clue what I was talking about.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello G.,

eBay for the lapping tool or simply use a variable drill with a hand chuck on the tip of the valve stem at very slow speed while moving the valve open and closed. (I quit hand lapping because I kept wearing out the suction cups as they got cheaper over the years)

Hand lapping tools are hard to find in any part stores now because most are only interest in fast moving stock items.

Aside from that, many people don't do any kind of serious DIY small engine work anymore. Only older "die hard" folks prior to the 90's have any ambition to actually work and make things work again. (There are a few younger exceptions sprinkled in, but it is rare.)