We all have days like that no problem
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Kohler SV-600 Air Gap
- Thread starter cmayo
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2024
- Messages
- 3,313
Hello C.,
First problem I would look for is the upper-case bolts under the edge of the flywheel are backing out. They will rub against the flywheel and also crack the engine block in the front if they are not caught in time. The engine factory failed to put Loctite on them during engine assembly.
First problem I would look for is the upper-case bolts under the edge of the flywheel are backing out. They will rub against the flywheel and also crack the engine block in the front if they are not caught in time. The engine factory failed to put Loctite on them during engine assembly.
Are you able to do a compression test?
Compression ran 80-90 PSI for the first several revs, eventually climbed to 120. Since the freezing presents before the first full rev, I'd guess the compression would be well under 100psi at that time.
I keep a fairly close eye on those cover bolts and they haven't backed out any since spring maintenance.Hello C.,
First problem I would look for is the upper-case bolts under the edge of the flywheel are backing out. They will rub against the flywheel and also crack the engine block in the front if they are not caught in time. The engine factory failed to put Loctite on them during engine assembly.
Thanks for the help, all. The air gap has been adjusted and definitely wasn't the problem. Cylinder compression was 80-90psi initially. Last time it happened a day or two ago, the battery wasn't able to push past the first freeze point, but when I attached my jump pack to the battery, it cranked like mad, so maybe it is a battery problem after all? The battery spec calls for #U1R-3 300CCA, I've got a 350CCA (430CA) in it now, and apparently that's about all the juice I can get out of this form factor with a standard battery. So I guess it's battery replacement time, then back to business as usual with trying to get the darn thing to crank over when the new battery starts to weaken.
Don't know why anyone would tell you to hold the ignition key to start position and hold it there until the starter turned the engine past the compression stop position. That could burn the starter up. turn the engine backward until it comes to the compression stop position. Then turn it ignition key back to start position and see what it does. Should start the engine.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2024
- Messages
- 3,313
Hello C.,
On an engine with a working compression relief on the camshaft, it usually has 60-75 PSI compression when cranking.
When the mechanism breaks on the camshaft, the compression will read much higher and the engine will fight the starter to crank consistently.
The compression relief only works when cranking and this allows the starter to be more compact.
On an engine with a working compression relief on the camshaft, it usually has 60-75 PSI compression when cranking.
When the mechanism breaks on the camshaft, the compression will read much higher and the engine will fight the starter to crank consistently.
The compression relief only works when cranking and this allows the starter to be more compact.
Nobody told me to do that, I just saw it in a YouTube and found it helpful. On the other hand, one fellow with the same problem said he'd burned through three starters so now I understand how that might happen. I will heed your advice. This is really sounding like an automatic compression release fault, but I won't tackle that myself and am unlikely to spend the money for a shop to do it.Don't know why anyone would tell you to hold the ignition key to start position and hold it there until the starter turned the engine past the compression stop position. That could burn the starter up. turn the engine backward until it comes to the compression stop position. Then turn it ignition key back to start position and see what it does. Should start the engine.