Wiring diagram help.

BrianSki

Active Member
I am wanting to do an engine swap and checking to see if there are any wiring diagrams before I start.
The original engine is a Briggs...

Mower Motor.JPG
 
The "new" donor engine is... 2 pictures because of the glare. Engines seem to be close... I did not get a close look yet. Wanting to get some info first.
doner engine 1.JPG

doner engine 2.JPG
 
I would say they are close.

One is a '97 and the other is a '99 according to the first two digits in the code information. Both are 16HP V-twin design according to my quick online search. and will bolt up because they have an industry standard bolt pattern. The difference come with the wiring and how the two compare. Also, the crank length and diameter may be different.

Do both machines these engines come from have an electric PTO option?
 
Well Briggs Power Portal differs.

The 35 is coming as a 18hp and the 30 as a 16hp.

and 30 has considerable longer PTO end at 3.140 vs the 35 at 2.362. The 35 has 809808 crankshaft and the 30 has a 692159 crankshaft.

With both having 3 different stators available.

What is worst is Briggs does not show an IPL for 303777-1142-A1 but does for a 303777-1142-E1.
 
and 30 has considerable longer PTO end at 3.140 vs the 35 at 2.362. The 35 has 809808 crankshaft and the 30 has a 692159 crankshaft.
I was afraid of crank being different size... Will see what happens.

The mower has a 18hp and a 16hp sticker... Might have been cover swap.

The 35 is on a John Deere mower... and has a oil cooler. I was told the 30 was off a Zero turn and doesn't have an oil cooler. That is all I know.
 
Well, I would say pretty good news... The crankshaft is the same... Yeah!

The starter is different. I go to swap them and the tin plate the starter fits through is also different. (My starter won't fit.) To get the plate off you have to pull the flywheel. In the process I broke a line on the fuel pump. Well there is a spare. So it got new fuel lines. Then the exhaust is different. I guess I can deal with those problems.
 
Those are the headaches a person deals with when swapping most engines. They are a different build spec according to how each rider chassis manufacturer wanted them to appear "custom".

Sounds like you are making decent progress though.

Be glad you double the parts to mix and match what you need.

Are the main harness plugs from the engine to the chassis the same? If not, you may have to swap over the charging stator and components from the original engine to the donor engine.
 
Are the main harness plugs from the engine to the chassis the same? If not, you may have to swap over the charging stator and components from the original engine to the donor engine.
Pretty much everything is the same...

But I might as well ask since you have replied... (Or else I was going to start another thread)

Fired it up and runs great... When cutting the grass for a few minutes... After a while (5+ minutes) the battery light on the dash came on. Then it went out. After a restart back on and staying on. I got out the meter and it is charging... But the voltage was to me a touch high measured at the battery. (I have a good quality meter.) 14.6x volts. I was thinking of swapping the regulator.

I am pretty good with electronics... But what is that weird round red thing in the harness? About the size of the end of your thumb?

I did give the fuses, connectors and ground wires a once over. They are all pretty good. Stator and voltage regulator was the same. But I did transfer over the foot long wiring harness that connected the regulator and ground wires to the mowers harness.

What controls the battery light? The circuit board? It looks like the wires don't go to that. They go into the harness. I did a quick look, but don't see a schematic that lists that mower with that kind of circuit.
 
Ok, I found the circuit. 800 pink is a hot wire, (one that also goes to fuel solenoid) the other 2 are ground wires. (101, 105)

The gizmo looks like some kind of voltage sensor to trip the light.

1791935120571.png
 
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