New Blade clutch questions

C

Cfs

Well-Known Member
I am replacing a defective PTO/ Blade Clutch on an older Exmark 60 inch zero turn. It is a model LZS27KC604 serial number 949453. I purchased a part number 116-1620 from an Exmark dealer. The blade clutch that I removed has a tag on it with the following info
Warner 5218-99 OCT 25 02 21.

I got it installed and it’s working driving the blades well. I am concerned that there is a chattering kind of noise that I hear at low throttle. Started rechecking myself and the old blade clutch had a D adapter that the mounting bolt went through. When I check the IPL there is no D adapter shown as a separate part and since I installed a OEM replacement I did not try to remove the adapter from the old clutch to install with the new clutch. It did look to me like the clutch I removed may have been a replacement there were some crimped wire connections on the wires to the plug. Maybe it had been replaced with a clutch that did use a D adapter. IMG_7307.jpegIMG_7312.jpegIMG_7308.jpeg
 
Cfs said:
I am replacing a defective PTO/ Blade Clutch on an older Exmark 60 inch zero turn. It is a model LZS27KC604 serial number 949453. I purchased a part number 116-1620 from an Exmark dealer. The blade clutch that I removed has a tag on it with the following info
Warner 5218-99 OCT 25 02 21.

I got it installed and it’s working driving the blades well. I am concerned that there is a chattering kind of noise that I hear at low throttle. Started rechecking myself and the old blade clutch had a D adapter that the mounting bolt went through. When I check the IPL there is no D adapter shown as a separate part and since I installed a OEM replacement I did not try to remove the adapter from the old clutch to install with the new clutch. It did look to me like the clutch I removed may have been a replacement there were some crimped wire connections on the wires to the plug. Maybe it had been replaced with a clutch that did use a D adapter. View attachment 74560View attachment 74561View attachment 74562
Click to expand...
When I look at the Exmark IPL it shows several additional washers that I didn’t remove. This makes me wonder if this is a replacement clutch that I removed am wondering if there were OEM washers that were and need to be replaced. Any and all insights welcome.
Spit
 
The adapter is intended to hold the crank while the center bolt is tightened. I recommend you install it on the new replacement clutch. It does a better job of protecting the clutch bearing than plain washers.
 
I can do that. I was looking at a video from a PTO/Clutch manufacturer Xtreme Power in their installation video on their website it said that the end of the D adapter should not make contact with the end of the crankshaft. Is that your experience?
 
Cfs said:
I can do that. I was looking at a video from a PTO/Clutch manufacturer Xtreme Power in their installation video on their website it said that the end of the D adapter should not make contact with the end of the crankshaft. Is that your experience?
Click to expand...
I wish I had researched replacing the clutch more thoroughly. I was under the impression that I had to hold the crankshaft by the flywheel bolt and on this 27 HP Kohler the only way to do that is to remove the engine shroud so the flywheel fan can be removed, since it does not have a hole in the center to access the bolt head.
I must have spent 4-5 hours getting it off and back on had to disconnect throttle/carb linkages all to make sure I had the 50 ft lbs of torque. I read that I should not tighten it with an impact wrench. When I got it off and got a socket on the flywheel bolt and a torque wrench on the blade clutch… I maybe turned it a tiny bit and the torque wrench clicked. I thought what a waste of time. I read about holding the D adapter for torquing and I can see how that makes the whole process easier
Spit
 
Cfs said:
I can do that. I was looking at a video from a PTO/Clutch manufacturer Xtreme Power in their installation video on their website it said that the end of the D adapter should not make contact with the end of the crankshaft. Is that your experience?
Click to expand...
You do not want the 2 to make contact otherwise you are torquing the D adaptor to the crankshaft not the clutch to the crankshaft. Everything has to sandwich together to hold everything in place.

If the crankshaft bolt has a thick heavy washer then you don't use the D adaptor. The D adapter is used with just the bolt and the lock washer.
 
Is the lower bearing supported by crankshaft? If the lower bearing is not supported then the Double D adapter is needed.

The Double D adapter also prevent over torquing the bearing as they are designed for a particular setup to provide the necessary preload of the bearing.

And yes the Double D adapter is design for a tool the hold them. I actually had two double ended tools made to hold 4 sizes of these adapters that are recessed where a wrench won't fit. Really saves time as I don't have to remove the engine's shroud. It would hurt for me to design a third one for the machine shop to make.

Also what are the current markings. Warner 5218-99 was superseded to 5218-202.
 
Thanks to everyone for their helpful input. I installed the D adapter and it seems to have stopped the chatter when idling. In reviewing the IPL it does not show a D adapter but a couple of coved washers that it does show, were not on the old clutch. I think someone replaced the original with the Warner that I removed which has D and the extra washer that an OEM takes were discarded. It’s the only way I can see how this happened. I used D and a single lock washer
Thanks again
Spit
 
Cfs said:
I wish I had researched replacing the clutch more thoroughly. I was under the impression that I had to hold the crankshaft by the flywheel bolt and on this 27 HP Kohler the only way to do that is to remove the engine shroud so the flywheel fan can be removed, since it does not have a hole in the center to access the bolt head.
I must have spent 4-5 hours getting it off and back on had to disconnect throttle/carb linkages all to make sure I had the 50 ft lbs of torque. I read that I should not tighten it with an impact wrench. When I got it off and got a socket on the flywheel bolt and a torque wrench on the blade clutch… I maybe turned it a tiny bit and the torque wrench clicked. I thought what a waste of time. I read about holding the D adapter for torquing and I can see how that makes the whole process easier
Spit
Click to expand...
Remove a spark plug and install a piston stop, or take good nylon rope and stuff it into the spark plug hole until full. This will keep engine from turning so you can torque the PTO bolt properly.
 
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