Edger runs, then dies.

People,

It's not the plugs. The engine starts/runs great for a few minutes.

UPDATE: After I cleaned up tank, carb, cut new gaskets from a sheet of gasket material, the problem still remained. BUT, but totally FREAK chance, I started it up again, and tried to see of the choke had any affect, and it did. Somehow, if I push the choke in all the way after say, a few seconds, (no more choke) the engine started to die/stumble, and noticing that I pulled the choke tab out again slightly (allowing slightly more choking) and the rpm's picked up again! I found that in either extreme position (no choke at all or full choke) the engine dies. But if I hold with my fingers the choke position about 1/2 way all is good, and engine runs and runs. As soon as I let go, the choke kind of finds its own position and engine dies. What is going on?

Is there some kind of spring with a certain tension, inside the choke "throat" that keeps it at an ideal position? This never happened before. What exactly governs the ideal choke position? This is my problem now, people.
 
Ideal choke position, full choke for starting an no choke for running. I see that you have not taken the time to read over the section on carburetors in the manual I posted. Stop number 8 in my earlier post. CARB NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED
 
rigoletto said:
People,

Craftsman Edger, B&S engine, Model # mostly worn away, 122(??)K50834. Mower starts, I run it to edge for say, 2 minutes, then it dies. I start it again but with starter fluid, it runs for 1-2 minutes, again, it dies. Dropped the fuel tank and noticed the fine screen mesh attached to the bottom of the pick up tube (darkened orangeish/brown plastic tube in photo) has a tiny hole in the center of it. Difficult to have taken a photo as the angle is awful. But at least you can see he tube.

Any idea why my edger quits like that?
Thanks, people.View attachment 74495
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An aftermarket carburetor should be available for this engine without too much trouble. The tube with the screen should not have a hole in it. That screen is the actual fuel filter.

These were simple, reliable carburetors, but had a habit of wearing the throttle shaft and housing as they aged. When that happened, the engine would run poorly, and no carburetor adjustment would correct the issue

The model number, type and serial numbers are stamped into the side of the pull start head right there near the carburetor mount area.
 
Auto Doc's said:
An aftermarket carburetor should be available for this engine without too much trouble. The tube with the screen should not have a hole in it. That screen is the actual fuel filter.

These were simple, reliable carburetors, but had a habit of wearing the throttle shaft and housing as they aged. When that happened, the engine would run poorly, and no carburetor adjustment would correct the issue

The model number, type and serial numbers are stamped into the side of the pull start head right there near the carburetor mount area.
Click to expand...
I had this type carb on a 5hp tiller. There was no replacement available for the plastic part with the screen. I improvised with a fuel filter from a two-stroke attached to the brass tube with a piece of plastic fuel line. It worked fine.
 
Briggs part number 296476 pickup tubes are still available, may have to do a little searching.
Also, Briggs carb number 210719 & 210721 are still available, but will have to do a lot of research. Part number will depend on which model, type and code the OP has. I can’t believe that the model numbers are not there. OP needs to do cleaning on that shroud to find them.
 
unless you have an engine that has the kill mechanism that is shared with the choke (and some do), it should not as you said, die on all open or all closed but run in between. Some other engines also have a lever that the throttle goes from kill -> choke -> idle -> run.
 
Rivets said:
Ideal choke position, full choke for starting an no choke for running. I see that you have not taken the time to read over the section on carburetors in the manual I posted. Stop number 8 in my earlier post. CARB NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED
Click to expand...
Man, I totally missed that link, Riv. Will try that and see what happens. I wasnt trying to cut corners.........
 
That link for the shop manual is a great resource! Saved it as a favorite. Many many carbs on the carb section, but I found what looks closest to what I have and adjusted the needle as indicated. Started the engine up, tweaked the needle a bit in/out, to achieve the best running sound, let go of the choke, and it did not die this time, it ran for a few minutes (longer this time, without dying). Then the entire thing squealed like mad, and engine froze up. Sheesh. Pulled the pull cord, nothing doing- cord was not able to be pulled even a millimeter. Oil level was good, checked it for the heck of it.

After all the work, the machine is now dead. Unless, I try to rebuild it. Probably not worth it, but say, I wanted to have some fun, pass time- it this rebuildable? Can a frozen piston be rebuilt? What could cause this?
 
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