Jacobsen 1200 super chief

Hello M.,

My advice is don't jump into buying parts or contemplating a "rebuild" until you have a full evaluation of the entire machine. These projects can be a joy to work on, but surprises do happen. Keep in mind that this thing got parked a long time for a reason.

Considering looking into a complete spare machine for donor parts (if one can be found) is never a bad investment.

The Ford 120 machine you spoke of earlier may have been built by Jacobsen under a private contract for Ford. That happened a lot even back then. Other private label builds were White yard products and Minneapolis Moline along with Sears Suburban. Even Montgomery Wards and Western Auto had private built versions of riders back then.

If your engine partially rotates, that may indicate a stuck valve or most likely a piston ring rust ridge in the cylinder. A good shot of PB blaster or some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinder spark plug hole works well if you let it sit for a week or so. Then gradually work the crank back and forth gently to see if it breaks free.
Awesome Doc
The couple parts I mentioned i will definitely have to get as it did not have them!
But yes got alot of cleaning to do first and see where I get and what I need!
Need to get a sevice manual first!
At this point I'm further along than I thought I would be as it is rolling 👍
 
Hello M.,

Kohler K310? or K301. Is there and ID plate on the engine?

Just like any machine, it is built using components and major assemblies from outside sources.

The service manual for the engine itself should be fairly easy to find. The service manual for the transmission may be more difficult.

Finding an operator's manual for this model from that era usually will have the chassis component part numbers along with common wear items like belts and blades. The original part numbers will have been changed and updated by now, but many parts are still available.
 
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K301 sorry wrote wrong in that previous post
Found original service manual on ebay
The owners manual easy to find and I have looked at it!
 
Also it had the original drive belts so im good for reference there !
This where I'm at!
The PB BLASTER worked pretty quickly motor is freed up and rotates well cylinder walls look good no scratches valves seat but I can see carbon build up on valve stems and a touch of rust maybe could be other?
May need valve job!
Pretty sure this thing had blown head gasket and nobody wanted to deal with it just the way the oil and crud pattern looked and the way the head gasket came off?
There was alot of crud on top of valves and piston but light scraping with putty knife and brass brush and it came off easier than other engines I have done which is one other 😄
I need to probably flush it out so what should I use ATF?? Or other!
Didn't look good at first when I pulled head but cleaned up pretty good! See pics
 

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Looks like a pretty good candidate so far. I recommend you get some fine sandpaper (400 grit) and a tempered glass tabletop (or similar true flat surface) Lightly sand the head mating surface smooth in case it is warped a little. Go back together with a laminated stock head gasket.

As for flushing the motor, I recommend kerosene if you have it around, mix it with the ATF. Pour it in the cylinder with the piston down and let it slowly creep past the piston and ring to help them free up well. It is a slow process, but it works well.

Let it marinate/soak for a few days and then repeat. Let it sit in the bottom of the engine block; it does wonders for breaking down the old sludge while it is soaking.

As for the valves, they should be removed and cleaned, then lapped into the seats properly.

Do not run it until you get it cleaned out good and put oil in the engine. This is a splash-lubricated engine, so it may take a couple of quick oil changes before you get actual clean oil back out of it. Any good conventional 10W-30 engine oil will do. Do not use synthetic oil though, until it has had a few hours of run time.
 
Looks like a pretty good candidate so far. I recommend you get some fine sandpaper (400 grit) and a tempered glass tabletop (or similar true flat surface) Lightly sand the head mating surface smooth in case it is warped a little. Go back together with a laminated stock head gasket.

As for flushing the motor, I recommend kerosene if you have it around, mix it with the ATF. Pour it in the cylinder with the piston down and let it slowly creep past the piston and ring to help them free up well. It is a slow process, but it works well.

Let it marinate/soak for a few days and then repeat. Let it sit in the bottom of the engine block; it does wonders for breaking down the old sludge while it is soaking.

As for the valves, they should be removed and cleaned, then lapped into the seats properly.

Do not run it until you get it cleaned out good and put oil in the engine. This is a splash-lubricated engine, so it may take a couple of quick oil changes before you get actual clean oil back out of it. Any good conventional 10W-30 engine oil will do. Do not use synthetic oil though, until it has had a few hours of run time.
I'll look for kerosene I have some old ATF anything else besides kerosene??
Pour it down oil fill hole and piston cylinder 👍
 
I'll look for kerosene I have some old ATF anything else besides kerosene??
Pour it down oil fill hole and piston cylinder 👍
Kerosene heating stove oil with ATF works well and can usually be found. Diesel fuel and ATF also work well.

Yes, pour it down in the cylinder and let it seep in. It also helps to rock the piston from side to every now and then with the end of a hammer handle. It will be slow, but that is the idea, so it has time to soften up any carbon on the rings and in the piston ring grooves.

You can pour a portion in the crankcase to let it soak as well.
 
Kerosene heating stove oil with ATF works well and can usually be found. Diesel fuel and ATF also work well.

Yes, pour it down in the cylinder and let it seep in. It also helps to rock the piston from side to every now and then with the end of a hammer handle. It will be slow, but that is the idea, so it has time to soften up any carbon on the rings and in the piston ring grooves.

You can pour a portion in the crankcase to let it soak as well.
Thanks Doc
 
Where I'm at!!!
Engine cleaned up well its actually in very good condition and appears to not have heavy wear!
Valves are lapped and clearance set!
Points look good and gapped !
I needed a carburetor, fuel pump, and air filter!
Picked up a new condenser incase old is not good!
So ready to fill with oil and see if it starts probably tomorrow fingers crossed🤞
 

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