Caught fire now smoking

The bottom push rod is aluminum and the top one is steel Unless the aluminum push rod has a groove worn into that shiny area I would just flip it over and put the shiny side down inside the pushrod cavity. And have you checked the oil level and make sure it also isn't full of gas. Hydrolocked cylinder most likely also filled the crankcase with gas.
 
ILENGINE said:
The bottom push rod is aluminum and the top one is steel Unless the aluminum push rod has a groove worn into that shiny area I would just flip it over and put the shiny side down inside the pushrod cavity. And have you checked the oil level and make sure it also isn't full of gas. Hydrolocked cylinder most likely also filled the crankcase with gas.
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Ilengine, thank you! I think we've discovered what is going on! Crankcase is overfilled, I will drain and I've put a fuel shutoff on the fuel line until I can locate a new fuel solenoid. I can't find a part number for it, I downloaded the parts manual and can't read the parts date codes. But what I have found returns no parts . It is a nikki carb. Fresh oil, new head gasket and rocker cover gasket. Where can I find a spec for setting rocker lashes for my specific engine? I assume I can't just reassemble it since the rockers weren't disturbed.
 
Since it hydrolocked, need to check the carb, starting with the float/valve. The solenoid is to slow/stop afterrun/dieseling. If it's not working, replace, but that's likely not the whole problem. Keep the shutoff. You may have crud blocking the needle valve from closing or a leaky float. The best test is a pressure test, but you can hook up a clear fuel line to check for a leak. Remove the bowl, lift and lower the float and see that fuel flows and stops.
 
Mark H_NO said:
Since it hydrolocked, need to check the carb, starting with the float/valve. The solenoid is to slow/stop afterrun/dieseling. If it's not working, replace, but that's likely not the whole problem. Keep the shutoff. You may have crud blocking the needle valve from closing or a leaky float. The best test is a pressure test, but you can hook up a clear fuel line to check for a leak. Remove the bowl, lift and lower the float and see that fuel flows and stops.
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Thank you,I know the carb is in rough shape. I did clean it as best I could new float valve, it was gunked up from sitting for 10 years. , hardly any hours on it as the cylinder shows no wear/ groove, the solenoid was stuck solid, got it moving slightly not sure how to get it any free'r. Maybe I'll try and reclean the carb again. Had to replace the fuel lines as they were ate up, rubber through out, plugged solid from setting.
 
jlwoods99 said:
Ilengine, thank you! I think we've discovered what is going on! Crankcase is overfilled, I will drain and I've put a fuel shutoff on the fuel line until I can locate a new fuel solenoid. I can't find a part number for it, I downloaded the parts manual and can't read the parts date codes. But what I have found returns no parts . It is a nikki carb. Fresh oil, new head gasket and rocker cover gasket. Where can I find a spec for setting rocker lashes for my specific engine? I assume I can't just reassemble it since the rockers weren't disturbed.
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Fuel valve shutoff in the fuel line will keep it from overflowing into the carb while not running. Also be aware that the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb has no control over the fuel flowing into the carb, just prevents the afterfire when the key is shutoff. Fuel can still overflow the carb and hydrolock the engine again unless the float valve is properly sealing.
 
ILENGINE said:
Fuel valve shutoff in the fuel line will keep it from overflowing into the carb while not running. Also be aware that the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb has no control over the fuel flowing into the carb, just prevents the afterfire when the key is shutoff. Fuel can still overflow the carb and hydrolock the engine again unless the float valve is properly sealing.
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The day I originally fueled it up and got it running, when I was done shut it down, it backfired when I shut it down, so I'm assuming it is still sticking. Any good ways you recommend cleaning the carb? Someone mentioned a ultrasonic cleaner? Also what is your thoughts on reassembly, do I need to set the clearance on the rocker arms, I was surprised how sloppy the were when the valves were closed.
 
Strange one you need to be aware of on that carb.
You also need to replace the upper old gasket on that Nikki carb. Trying to reuse the old gasket will result in gas seeping and BYPASSING the needle/seat.
You can see such once the gasket is removed and you are aware of such.
I pressure test the gasket for a good seal by holding the needle seat closed.
 
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it is still going to leak excess fuel into the engine as it runs, The engine may burn it and spit any unburned out the exhaust, but the rich mixture will wash oil off the cylinder walls and still ruin the engine. You need to fix it before running it further.
 
sgkent said:
it is still going to leak excess fuel into the engine as it runs, The engine may burn it and spit any unburned out the exhaust, but the rich mixture will wash oil off the cylinder walls and still ruin the engine. You need to fix it before running it further.
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So you are saying that the fuel shut off valve isn't sufficient to stop fuel from leaking by, I did replace the gaskets in the carb, I assumed it was the float leaking past .
 
Hello J.,

In reference to the pushrods, they look normal. Everything I am reading points to a defective carburetor leaking fuel into the crankcase. This problem will create lots of smoke and spitting over-thinned oil out of the exhaust.

Stop digging around in the motor "looking for a problem". You can easily create more work or even damage based on a simple lack of experience.
 
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