Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Sounds like your fuel tank needs to be removed and washed out really well then left out in the sun to dry before reinstalling.
Kohler CV730 fuel delivery issues
- Thread starter Hayward
- Start date
Yes, I did clean the tank. That old Craftsman had never had the body lifted off...lots of rusty bolts. About my latest issue of hitting a bump and cutting out/loose connection...I tried the seat switch, checked all connectors on harness, die electric greased, grounds are tight, no bare wire found. Any suggestions ?
GearHead36
Well-Known Member
Go back to the OEM carb. You've established that the carb wasn't the issue. This new issue might be due to the aftermarket carb.
Not recommended but it's your mower.
Far as loose connections go, make sure each spade terminal makes a DRAG MARK on the male connector. Male is the flat one. Female connector with proper tension will make drag marks on the male connector. Just shoving the connectors together might not provide a solid connection. These are called or what I call friction connectors. Not the greatest tool in the box.
Male on the bottom in the picture below, leaves female on the top. The higher the current draw the more important all this dragging is. Good tight clean connections is what you should shoot for.
For what exactly?
Ummm, Ummm, dirt, grass and grit sticks and collects to greases and oils. Again your mower but clean and tight is best.
Tight is part of the recipe. How about clean and corrosion free? Clean to bare metal polished with Flitz Metal Polish? Use some star grounding washers.......
Take an INSULATED small stick of some kind. Something you won't get shocked with. Tap all around every wire AND connection on the mower. See if she stumbles or tries to die.
Use a finger or screwdriver to push in on all the safety switches. Should kill the engine until you release or press it. Depends if it is a NO or NC connection. A multimeter test on all switches would be good as well.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello H.,
These problems can get tricky, but it takes a process of elimination and some patience. Often times, problems with and aged machine overlap, so one "fix" does not always do the trick.
Let's look closer at the harness and electrical components. Have you wiggle tested the ignition switch harness. Often times, you don't have to be riding the machine to duplicate this kind of sudden cutout issue. Poor connector pins will create a random cutout condition.
Next is the main fuse holder and fuse. Pull the fuse and see if appears like it's beginning to melt the plastic. If it is, the fuse retainer pins are corroded and creating high resistance. A new connector w/fuse spliced in will correct this problem. Just replacing the fuse often does not work for very long, but it is good to narrow down if this could be the issue.
The connector at the fuel solenoid is also another culprit that I have found because the pin terminals do not fit very well. The connector pins are round, but the solenoid pins are squared. With vibration age and time, the round terminal pins get loose and worn.
These problems can get tricky, but it takes a process of elimination and some patience. Often times, problems with and aged machine overlap, so one "fix" does not always do the trick.
Let's look closer at the harness and electrical components. Have you wiggle tested the ignition switch harness. Often times, you don't have to be riding the machine to duplicate this kind of sudden cutout issue. Poor connector pins will create a random cutout condition.
Next is the main fuse holder and fuse. Pull the fuse and see if appears like it's beginning to melt the plastic. If it is, the fuse retainer pins are corroded and creating high resistance. A new connector w/fuse spliced in will correct this problem. Just replacing the fuse often does not work for very long, but it is good to narrow down if this could be the issue.
The connector at the fuel solenoid is also another culprit that I have found because the pin terminals do not fit very well. The connector pins are round, but the solenoid pins are squared. With vibration age and time, the round terminal pins get loose and worn.
Look for drag marks ON the fuse legs too. No drag marks = a loose connection creating high resistance pulling extra unwanted amperage.
+1 on what @Auto Doc's said.
I just recently had an instant shut down on my Gravely. It has the Kohler ZT740 Confidant. It would try to fire but never would. I got it towed around to my garage and took the bumper assembly off for a look. I was checking around the carburetor and the hot wire to the carburetor solenoid fell down. The connection was broken. New connections and some 14ga. Wire fixed it right up.
Take a look at the hot wire going from the solenoid to the wiring harness.
I just recently had an instant shut down on my Gravely. It has the Kohler ZT740 Confidant. It would try to fire but never would. I got it towed around to my garage and took the bumper assembly off for a look. I was checking around the carburetor and the hot wire to the carburetor solenoid fell down. The connection was broken. New connections and some 14ga. Wire fixed it right up.
Take a look at the hot wire going from the solenoid to the wiring harness.