Oil drain assembly question - trying to fix leak

The dye in the oil will show with UV light and appear dark mustard yellow or pumpkin orange. It helps to wash everything down good then retest if in doubt. The dye in the oil will not hurt anything and there is no need to immediately change the oil after repairs are completed.
 
Just a hint about UV viewing light, etc.

What I did at first to make sure I could see the UV ok with the intended light when I first started is mix little bit of dye into some motor oil, just small amount of oil and a drop of dye stir it good and then see if you can see it in daylight, then in a shade, then in a dark place. (using the UV light only, UV light with the special glasses, etc. You will know then if you can actually see the dyed oil and how you need to go about doing the viewing when you get ready to add the dye for the actual leak test.
Most generally I've had to view in the dark to see good dye color.

Another hint:
Sometimes the dye is hard to remove or will not remove even with the dye remover solvent on the surface of where it leaked before and you need to do a re-test after a repair.
I just de-grease the area and then use some flat black Hi-Heat paint and lightly spray over the dye. The new oil with dye will be on top of the paint if it's still leaking.
Then to remove the NEW paint later just wipe with Lacq thinner and a rag and paint brush.
 
First thing I would do is get rid the oil drain and get the drain hose kit 51044-0902
off Amazon
 
Last edited:
hlw49 said:
First thing I would do is get rid the oil drain and get the drain hose kit 51044-0902
off Amazon
Click to expand...
There was a drain hose attached to the nipple that broke when I removed it before taking the picture; it was brittle from being cooked by the exhaust. Wouldn't the same happen to a drain hose with even worse results?
 
That tube probably was a clear vinyl tube that was suppose to be removed after use.

Now the rubber hose would need to secured when not in use. Also the same rubber o-ring will leak over time.

The drain valve that I replace most times is the plastic version which gets damaged.

Also SKU 51044-0902 has been superseded.
1784497925472.png
 
I was able to break loose the valve with the oil filter removed with a 1" open end wrench. The o-ring was hard and broke when I tried removing it, so it likely wasn't sealing. I have a couple of kits of o-rings and wasn't able to find a perfect fit with a single o-ring, but doubling them up gave me some good compression. I don't know if they're good enough quality for a long term solution, but should last long enough to let me know if that was the problem. If not, I'll use the UV dye recommendations y'all have made to chase it down. Thanks again, everyone.
 
No leaks around the drain valve, or anywhere else. However, I noticed today after mowing a heavy film of oil residue on the engine cover coming from what must be the oil dipstick cap.

So, I've got pressure in the crankcase. I hope that's not as bad as it seems it could be. It starts easily enough and runs well....

IMG_0507.jpeg
 
The cap is supposed to have an O-ring seal tucked up inside that seals it to the fill tube. If it is cracked or missing, you need a new dipstick.
 
Napa sells the dye and a flashlight very inexpensive. My VW bus engine was leaking and turned out to be totally different places than I thought it was.

This is an example what you will see with the dye

DYE.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top