Mower Won’t Start

Berniebac

Well-Known Member
I have a Columbia lawn tractor with a Briggs Mod. 287707, Type 0224-01, Code 970117ZD. I started it this spring and mowed for about 20 minutes then it stalled out. I started it again and it rain but when I engaged the mower it would mow for 30 secs then quit. I dropped the bowl off the carb and found a lot of dirty fuel and a spider in the bowl. How does a spider get in there? Took the carb off, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Now it will start, run for about 2 secs then quit. A lot of cranking, run for 2 secs then quit. So it won’t run.

I am sure I reassembled the carb correctly and reinstalled it correctly. I am now at a loss as to what to look for next. Fuel flow to carb seems good. I loosened the anti-fire solenoid and fuel came out of the bowl, so I tightened that back on. New air filter last summer. Vent to fuel tank is good.

What am I missing? Could it be a safety switch? How do I check those? What else should I look for?
 
Safety switch mostly will keep it from starting. If you had junk in the bowl, check fuel flow to carb. If gravity feed, pull fuel line at carb and check flow. If there's a solenoid, is it connected? If you pull the bowl and turn ignition on, it should retract. As much junk as you say, I'd look at replacing fuel lines/filter
 
on a long shot - check the muffler to be sure it is not obstructed with mud from wasps or rust/carbon. If that is it, it is dying because it can't exhale.

Also, look carefully at the ignition wiring. Some starter circuits apply needed voltage either by lifting the kill wire, or by providing voltage depending on the arrangement. Some do, some do not. Those that do rely on a seperate connection when the engine is in the run mode. So in this example the engine runs when in the start position then dies in the run position. That is about 2 seconds.

Check the oil level. If low add some. If normal does the engine have an oil pressure sensor? If it is bad it may work for a second then short out. After you check the oil level, if it still does it, disconnect the oil pressure sensor to test it.

These three things above could all do what you are experiencing.
 
I have a Columbia lawn tractor with a Briggs Mod. 287707, Type 0224-01, Code 970117ZD. I started it this spring and mowed for about 20 minutes then it stalled out. I started it again and it rain but when I engaged the mower it would mow for 30 secs then quit. I dropped the bowl off the carb and found a lot of dirty fuel and a spider in the bowl. How does a spider get in there? Took the carb off, cleaned it and reinstalled it. Now it will start, run for about 2 secs then quit. A lot of cranking, run for 2 secs then quit. So it won’t run.

I am sure I reassembled the carb correctly and reinstalled it correctly. I am now at a loss as to what to look for next. Fuel flow to carb seems good. I loosened the anti-fire solenoid and fuel came out of the bowl, so I tightened that back on. New air filter last summer. Vent to fuel tank is good.

What am I missing? Could it be a safety switch? How do I check those? What else should I look for?
Dirty carburetor, bad fuel, anti-afterfire solenoid not working, not getting enough fuel, debris in fuel tank, or all of the above.
 
I’ll check each of the above this morning. There is no low oil switch so that one is out. I am suspecting the anti backfire solenoid but we will see.
 
Just went out to take a look at things and found results from your suggestions:
1) Pulled fuel line and have good flow to the carb
2) checked muffler no obstruct
3) did not look at ignition wiring yet, will explain why below
4) oil level is good no oil sensor present
5) have fresh fuel in it, looks clean, good flow

So I had my wife sit in the seat, turn the key to run position and I got no click at the anti backfire solenoid. Held my finger on the solenoid and could not feel it click. Pulled the spark plug and it’s dry as can be. Pored a little gas down the throat of the carb and it started and ran for a couple seconds.

Really seems like that anti backfire solenoid to me.
 
Sounds good. Can you drop the bowl? That should let you see the tip of the solenoid actuator. You want a fuel line cutoff for this...
 
Either replace the solenoid or snip the plunger off and use an inline fuel valve to kill fuel about a minute prior to killing the engine. Also can get a bolt the same thread and pitch for the solenoid and bypass the solenoid all together. Saves this stupid no run condition for the next guy later on.
 
Either replace the solenoid or snip the plunger off and use an inline fuel valve to kill fuel about a minute prior to killing the engine. Also can get a bolt the same thread and pitch for the solenoid and bypass the solenoid all together. Saves this stupid no run condition for the next guy later on.
Just plain too lazy to clean it. 98% of the time that is all the is needed. And yes they fail electrically sometimes.

Beside if it is one with the jet they can still clog up. Just had to replace one that was severely clogged and rusted. And someone had already clipped tip but the carburetor still couldn't get fuel to the main nozzle.
 
Thanks for all your input. I got it going. I tested the solenoid by taking it off the carb and connecting it to a couple jumper wires that were connected directly to the battery. Solenoid worked fine. So then I thought I’d check the wires coming to the solenoid to see if they had been chewed and maybe shorting out. I disconnected the ground wire that runs to the heat shield and then I thought I should test them for voltage before I pull them back thru. Thought I better clean the ground wire before I reattach it to the heat shield, no harm in that. Got it connected back up hooked up the test light and turned the key to “run” and the test light lit up. Hooked it back up to the solenoid, turned the key and it fired right up. Let it run for ten minutes, no problem. Backed it out of the shed and mowed the entire yard without any problems.

Wow, a bad ground and that’s all it was. Got lucky on this one. At least I hope I have.
 
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