Removed original and installed kit as prescribed on the forum..Started up adjusted air screw a little all is well smooth thru all ranges and no hunting at all. Big problem when you shut off seconds later fuel runs out the carb throat. Now i use my fuel shutoff valve to run carb dry then turn off key.Whats the deal i would think it must be float related, or needle valve ????? I would think it would be running very rich but the new plug shows ok. Oh yes 1 more no choke when starting cold.
Fuel leak at Carb, LTX 1042
- Thread starter fayjim2
- Start date
Sure sounds like float or needle. If it's not a big hassle, pull the carb, and check if the needle valve closes when you turn it upside down. That's the recommended way to test with a pressure gauge. You can put a clear fuel line on it, fill with diesel, and see if it holds. You can get a rough idea by blowing into a clean fuel line attached to the inverted carb.
Next is removing the bowl, float and needle, and checking for debris. Something could be stopping the needle from closing. Did the kit you installed have needle and seat? Did you clean the seat? You can at least swab it out with a qtip, I've heard you can also use Flitz on the qtip if it's a brass seat.
Next is removing the bowl, float and needle, and checking for debris. Something could be stopping the needle from closing. Did the kit you installed have needle and seat? Did you clean the seat? You can at least swab it out with a qtip, I've heard you can also use Flitz on the qtip if it's a brass seat.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
You have a needle to seat sealing problem from what you describe.
Often times old fuel resin creates a "shellac" on the seat that is hard to remove even with good carb spray. A Q-tip and Acetone seems to work pretty well with a few attempts to polish the seat clean.
If the carburetor has a replaceable rubber seat, it might be the problem.
Also, the float needle can get a groove in it, and it will not properly seal.
If you've already replaced the needle with the kit, it could be defective. The old needle may still work fine.
Often times old fuel resin creates a "shellac" on the seat that is hard to remove even with good carb spray. A Q-tip and Acetone seems to work pretty well with a few attempts to polish the seat clean.
If the carburetor has a replaceable rubber seat, it might be the problem.
Also, the float needle can get a groove in it, and it will not properly seal.
If you've already replaced the needle with the kit, it could be defective. The old needle may still work fine.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello F.,
The solenoid is only there to prevent shutdown hot muffler backfire issues due to raw fuel being drawn in as the engine quits rotating. They are not designed to function as a reliable fuel shutoff.
A manual inline fuel shutoff valve is good insurance to prevent fuel from getting past the solenoid.
The solenoid is only there to prevent shutdown hot muffler backfire issues due to raw fuel being drawn in as the engine quits rotating. They are not designed to function as a reliable fuel shutoff.
A manual inline fuel shutoff valve is good insurance to prevent fuel from getting past the solenoid.
Tiger Small Engine
Lawn Addict
Prime example of the misunderstanding of the carburetor solenoid and its function. Anyone that thinks this solenoid will prevent leaks or hydro locking the engine just doesn’t get it.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello M.,
People (end users) have oversimplified the language by using the term "fuel solenoid". I guess they think dumbing it down improves understanding.
Half the time people do not understand when it is called an electric "anti-backfire" solenoid (That is too much complex language)
People (end users) have oversimplified the language by using the term "fuel solenoid". I guess they think dumbing it down improves understanding.
Half the time people do not understand when it is called an electric "anti-backfire" solenoid (That is too much complex language)
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
"Stupid"? No, just misinformed.
Most mechanics/technicians, like doctors, have special language and in-depth working knowledge of systems (or body) that take years to master.
The average DIY person is always learning as they go because they don't specialize in technical aspects of what they are dealing with.
Most mechanics/technicians, like doctors, have special language and in-depth working knowledge of systems (or body) that take years to master.
The average DIY person is always learning as they go because they don't specialize in technical aspects of what they are dealing with.