Dipstick Question

JBtoro

Well-Known Member
Here's one from left field. Picked up a lightly used Toro Recycler with Smart Stow. Like it because I have limited garage space. However, original engine smoked because of a scored piston. Had a good Briggs Professional series engine that bolted right up to the deck & everything works as it should. However, the dipstick on the replacement engine angles a bit backwards which is no problem on a non-smart stow deck but causes a slow leak from the dipstick because the smart stow feature means the deck & engine is stored vertically. On the original engine the dipstick was designed to be straight up (no angle) so as to avoid leaking. Question is: why doesn't the o-ring on my replacement engine dipstick cap (pictured) seal completely? Is it supposed to vent somewhat? I thought the crankcase breather did that job. Maybe I need a new o-ring but the existing one looks fine, quite soft & no cracks or breaks.
 
Patience is not a virtue you have a lot of, right? You’re posting the same thread 7 hours apart? Not good. Look at the dipstick on the old engine. Might try swapping O-Rings and see if that helps. A good O-Ring should solve your problem as dipsticks are not vented. Where’s the picture???? OH, you forgot due to the fact you’re in such a hurry.
 
I think the Smart Stow setup is probably the bigger issue here than the O-ring itself. On a regular mower that dipstick only sees a little oil splash, but when it's stored upright you've got oil sitting against that angled tube all the time. Even a good O-ring may let a little seep through under those conditions.
The crankcase breather should still be handling the venting. If it were mine, I'd try running the oil level just a touch below full and maybe put a little silicone grease on the O-ring to see if it helps. You might also be able to swap in a straighter dipstick tube.
Hope this helps!
 
Post the engine model and type number so we can a better idea of what you have. But O-rings do flatten over time and not as well as new and the maybe at the other end of the tube running the length of the tube and appearing to be the cap seal.
 
Laughed when I read your question , in Australia DIPSTICK is a derogoratory term for someone who is a sandwich short of a picnic or not the sharpest pencil in the case
Also of course something to check the oil with
We use Dipstick in the same context as the Aussie's do. So there is no difference in the meaning across continents.
 
Patience is not a virtue you have a lot of, right? You’re posting the same thread 7 hours apart? Not good. Look at the dipstick on the old engine. Might try swapping O-Rings and see if that helps. A good O-Ring should solve your problem as dipsticks are not vented. Where’s the picture???? OH, you forgot due to the fact you’re in such a hurry.
Speaking of dipsticks. Why does a 4-sided dipstick on a Kawasaki engine often not read evenly when checking the oil, or a 2-sided dipstick sometimes also? I have yet to find someone that can answer this question? I Am meticulous about checking and getting the correct amount of oil in engine after an oil change on a customer engine and see this all the time.
 
Speaking of dipsticks. Why does a 4-sided dipstick on a Kawasaki engine often not read evenly when checking the oil, or a 2-sided dipstick sometimes also? I have yet to find someone that can answer this question? I Am meticulous about checking and getting the correct amount of oil in engine after an oil change on a customer engine and see this all the time.
The answer is simple. The dipstick in not inserted straight up and down. They are mounted at an angle, and some more than others.
 
Also I've found lately when replacing o rings that are subjected to both heat and oil I try to find Hydraulic type o-rings.
I have both metric and standard o-ring kits that are iffy for hot oil and heat and even buying from automotive parts stores now-days can be china made.
If a parts store makes up hydraulic hoses is a good place to find real deal good o-rings that are rated for both heat and hot oil.

A strange thing seen on some small engine:
Also some small engines, Onan and some Briggs to name couple the dipstick tube will hold oil up in the tube above the regular oil level because the end of the dipstick tube is not vented and will vacuum or capillary the oil up into the tube even though the crankcase vent is good.
This requires the double dip stick method to get an accurate oil level check. (first check the oil level will be higher than normal)
 
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As for the dipstick... If it has a tube to go into, the stick needs to be wiped clean and checked a couple of time to verify level and do not screw it in if it is a threaded type. Don't overthink the situation.

I am not a fan of any plastic dipsticks because I have had to tear down many engines due to a broken one jamming up a compression release or getting particles caught up in the oil pump.
 
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