Hi all. Hoping someone can help me out. I was using my Cub Cadet XT1 ride on mower and stopped to empty the grass, and it wouldn't start up again. I had stopped and started several times with no issues, but this time it wouldn't go. I get no sound whatsoever when I turn the key. I have checked all the safety stuff, brake, seat, etc, but they all seem good. I tried jumping it, still nothing. In my troubleshooting journey, I have replaced the battery, solenoid and starter, and it still won't go. I took the battery out and gave it a full charge on the charger and still nothing. I'm at a loss at this point. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!
Cub Cadet XT1 Won't Start
- Thread starter Aaron1971
- Start date
Use this procedure to pinpoint the cause of your problem, then report back your results. If you don’t have a multimeter or unsure about how to diagnose electrical problems you’ll have to take the unit into a shop.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Tiger Small Engine
Lawn Addict
Set the parking brake and throttle down the mower to keep it running when emptying the grass bags/containers.
Your problem is most likely a safety switch if you are getting no click, no start when turning the ignition switch.
Much easier on you and healthier on the lawn to not catch the clippings and let it go back on lawn.
Or fix the safety switch so it will operate SAFELY. They were installed for a reason.
I
Have checked all the safety switches and they all seem fine. At least the plunger is being pressed, I don't know how to verify if it is working as intended. There's definitely not one for the bag/chute.
Thanks for this great comment. Let me see if I can answer.
I am not an electrician or small engine guy at all. I have some basic knowledge gained through normal life experiences. I have a multimeter and a test light. Again, I'm not an expert with them, but I know enough I guess. I can follow instructions, but might need some stuff really dumbed down for me.
As far as the first part goes, the fuse looks good (not broken). This is a newer machine 3 years old, and it's kept in a shed, so all the wires and connections are clean, so no corrosion to worry about.
I tested from the battery to the solenoid in every possible combination and always got a light and a reading over 12v.
I am not sure how to go about Step Three. When you say the small terminals on the solenoid, are you talking about the ones at the bottom that are flat connectors that I slide two plastic connectors onto? My solenoid has the two main studs with wires and a nut. Then at the bottom I have two connections that have plastic connectors that I slide in place. If these are the small terminals you mentioned, do I test them while still connected somehow, or do I unplug them and test on the flat "terminals"?
Yes Slomo, it's best to fix the safety switch. In my case, it's a safety switch on the chute, to make sure it's installed, I guess. The plastic chute stretched, and doesn't reliably engage switch. I am willing to accept this risk on my machine.
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If the plunger is pressed, hopefully it is activating the safety. You test it by unhooking the electrical connection, and using a multimeter. Normally it will be 2 conductors, and the switch will either be open or closed. Put the meter on the switch contacts when the plunger is depressed and read ohms. Do whatever unpresses the plunger and read ohms again. One is normally close to 0, while the other is infinity. Short circuit, or open circuit. This should tell you if the switch is actually working. Sometimes it looks like plunger is pressed, but it's not enough to activate the switch.
.If the plunger is pressed, hopefully it is activating the safety. You test it by unhooking the electrical connection, and using a multimeter. Normally it will be 2 conductors, and the switch will either be open or closed. Put the meter on the switch contacts when the plunger is depressed and read ohms. Do whatever unpresses the plunger and read ohms again. One is normally close to 0, while the other is infinity. Short circuit, or open circuit. This should tell you if the switch is actually working. Sometimes it looks like plunger is pressed, but it's not enough to activate the switch.