In troubleshooting a popping issue I discovered that the electrical connection to the fuel cutoff solenoid was lose. When I wiggle the connector (doesn't take much) I can hear the solenoid cut in and out. I had a spare one from another carburetor that fit the connector better but it has a plastic plunger at the end instead of brass. The other solenoid came from a different VTwin with a single barrel carb. The (factory) part number for both solenoids are the same. The replacement OEM part is almost $200. I was wondering if anyone had a similar issue and/or if they would use a plastic tipped solenoid? If not, do they have a source (part number) for a cheaper solenoid with the better connector with a metal (brass) tip?
School Me on Fuel Solenoids for 44x677-xxxx
- Thread starter Resqguy
- Start date
andrewslarge
Well-Known Member
The solenoid has a plunger that goes inside the solenoid body when you have voltage. It’s an electro magnet. When no voltage or off it extends out to close off the fuel to the carburetor to hopefully stop a backfire.
I have had to “clip” the plunger in an emergency to finish cutting grass at my farm. It’s a 6 hour round trip to mow for 3 hours. I have completely removed the solenoid from my Kohler engines and replaced with a simple drain bolt and washer. No more fuel solenoid issues!
I prefer to use a manual fuel shutoff and run my carburetors dry. It solves many possible issues.
Hope this helps explain the operation?
I have had to “clip” the plunger in an emergency to finish cutting grass at my farm. It’s a 6 hour round trip to mow for 3 hours. I have completely removed the solenoid from my Kohler engines and replaced with a simple drain bolt and washer. No more fuel solenoid issues!
I prefer to use a manual fuel shutoff and run my carburetors dry. It solves many possible issues.
Hope this helps explain the operation?
I snip the plunger off. In the future, IF you have a starting issue, it's not from the solenoid.
Normal fuel delivery issues are tough enough for most people. Having the test and verify the solenoid is a reach for some.
Not aware of any aftermarket or Chinese solenoids. If you want it to work, buy OEM parts.
Tiger Small Engine
Lawn Addict
Bypass anti-afterfire solenoid on carburetor. The pintle on the solenoid is not the main reason fuel can enter the cylinder , therefore hydro locking the engine with fuel. The main reason is the needle and seat working properly. One of the most misunderstood functions on a small engine is this solenoid.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
The problem is usually the harness connector and not the solenoid.
Look at the harness connector female pins and you will see they are round and have been spread out. Then look at the solenoid male pins and you will see they are a thin rectangular shape.
The female pins need to be tightened slightly for a better fit to the solenoid. Once that is done the wiring needs to be secured by wrapping a zip tie to hold the harness to the solenoid to avoid vibration.
Look at the harness connector female pins and you will see they are round and have been spread out. Then look at the solenoid male pins and you will see they are a thin rectangular shape.
The female pins need to be tightened slightly for a better fit to the solenoid. Once that is done the wiring needs to be secured by wrapping a zip tie to hold the harness to the solenoid to avoid vibration.
I'm a little confused. Are you recommending that I bypass the solenoid? I've done some additional troubleshooting and narrowed down the problem to be the electrical connection between the wire and the pin inside the connector attached to the solenoid. When I pull on the wire with the key on the solenoid will open and close. I tried looking for a source to replace the connector but had no luck. My options are to replace the wiring harness or bypass the solenoid.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Tighten the pins on the harness connector.