Aftermart Wheel Motors

M

Millelacsmadman

Forum Newbie
Hey all. I have a 2007 Ferris is2000z. I bought it used and just replaced the drivers right pump, changed all the hoses, flushed the two wheel motors, as well as the old driver's left pump, and cleaned the reservoir.

When purging the air I started to notice a little leaking (3-4 drops a night) from both wheel motors. It turns out the outter seals (dust seals) are installed backwards.

I was told the mower had 1,000 hours on it when I bought it. Idk if that's the case or not. The 27hp Kohler Command has an even 180psi in each cylinder.

I've bought two sets of rear wheel dust seals, but both have been the wrong size (too big). There's very little room between the shaft and the motor housing.

Since the mower may have 1000 hours or 2000 hours (who knows), and I just went through all the effort restoring the system is it worth buying two of the aftermarket wheel motors? If so, any thoughts on the brand?

I need to get it up and running soon and don't want to have to keep messing around with the hydraulics.

Thank you.
 
What is the brand and part number on the current ones you have?

All wheel motors and transaxles are made by the aftermarket under special contracts with the machine manufacturers. Ferris does not make anything but the sheet metal stampings for their machines.
 
Auto Doc's said:
What is the brand and part number on the current ones you have?

All wheel motors and transaxles are made by the aftermarket under special contracts with the machine manufacturers. Ferris does not make anything but the sheet metal stampings for their machines.
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They are hydro-gear HGM-15E-3132. I believe they are the originals. Those new are quite expensive, which is why I'm wondering if any of the aftermarket versions are decent.
 
Auto Doc's said:
Hydro-gear is about the only choice you have if you want to replace them.
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What I'm seeing is the hydro-gear option for over 1k each, or the various Chinese made pumps for anywhere from 250 to 500 each. Some of them have pretty good reviews, but that's all I know about them and was curious if anyone else has had experience with them.
 
One other item to note is the previous owner had the driver right pump implode and they pulled it back to their garage without opening the bypass valves. Im wondering if that may have damaged the original wheel motors and if replacing the dust seals would be good enough or if I need to think about new motors. I can tell you that everything was quiet when I did the purging.
 
Note the dust seal is installed as follows>

Using a mandrel, press new seal (6) into motor housing.
Seal should go in with metal side facing the motor shaft end of the housing
and the cupped side facing toward the interior of the housing.

70602-3 is the seal kit PN lists for $292.38. Gives you something to think about.
 
Thank you. I spoke with a dealer and he thought if the motor is between 1k and 2k hours and ate the debris of a catastrophic pump failure it might be best to get a pair of wheel motors albeit aftermarket or hydro-gear brand as the can release additional metal.

Otherwise, if I want to be a little risky, just replace the outter dust seals.
 
Millelacsmadman said:
Thank you. I spoke with a dealer and he thought if the motor is between 1k and 2k hours and ate the debris of a catastrophic pump failure it might be best to get a pair of wheel motors albeit aftermarket or hydro-gear brand as the can release additional metal.

Otherwise, if I want to be a little risky, just replace the outter dust seals.
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Hydrogear has always told their dealers such as myself that a pump failure will not damage a wheel motor, but a wheel motor failure will eat the pump. But something to keep in mind is would be hard to get the wheel motor properly flushed of debris from a previous pump failure to prevent another pump failure.
 
Personally I can't verify anything related to either a pump or wheel motor failure. So far in the last 5 years of being a HG service center I only seen seal failures except one case where I had to replace a wheel motor. In that case it was because someone had removed the brake drum and didn't torque the nut back to spec. The customer ran it with a sheared key until it eat up the non replaceable axle shaft.

I did order a replacement off Amazon and initially receive a 24V battery charger but was just the warehouse robot pulling the wrong part because the wrong was in the bin

I have found that pulling the pumps can be a pain to do on some ZTRs.
 
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