FB460V-CS00

Stob

Member
This is the engine on my 1988 JD160, yes I bought it new and still use it often. The most trouble free engine I know of. But, a couple weeks ago, I parked the mower on a slope nose down, not a drastic slope, and evidently it had enough slope where the gas siphoned down to the carb and loaded the cylinder. Never happened before, but once I cleared it ran fine as long as I didn't park it on a slope. I would have thought the vacuum fuel pump would have had a check valve of sorts, so I bought a new pump from Amazon, it works. But the mower has been running rough and with obvious smoke from running rich. I pulled the carb, cleaned and shot carb cleaner though all the ports, blew it all dry. Started it back up and it ran smooth for 10 minutes or so then slowly started to load back up by the time I got back to the shed. The float and needle worked fine, I blew in it and the float shut the flow as it should.
So anyway, looking at carbs and/or carb kits, these seem to not be available. The carb number I got from the engine model is 15001-2366. Looking on Amazon the crabs don't say compatible with that number. Not sure what to do, this mower is like my kid I've had it so long. Any ideas?
 
The correct carburetor for a CS spec was 15001-2720 which subbed a couple of times. The last part number that was 15001-2936. John Deere used to have some carburetor kits. Service parts like a float valve or gaskets would likely still be available.

Those old FB’s and FC models were well built engines back in the day. What do the spark plugs reveal after running the way you are describing? Rich running would produce a dry, black soot on the plug.
 
Well, that was quite revealing. The plug is very dark and WET, smells of gas. I pulled the dipstick and it is shows way too much oil....it's about half gas now. So obviously the float is not holding.
txmowman, I'm going to search the part numbers you show, maybe I can find something. I can't run what I have.
 
Carbs(Crabs) are NLA. The best is a new needle and bowl gasket. And the needle is not bad.

11009-2024
16030-2067
 
I searched the 15001-2720 and found an aftermarket carb available. It appears correct except it has a vent tube that mine doesn't. I guess an emissions vent. If you are sure of that part number, I'll get one. All the other aftermarket carbs I've seen reference compatible with 15003-XXX.
 
I searched the 15001-2720 and found an aftermarket carb available. It appears correct except it has a vent tube that mine doesn't. I guess an emissions vent. If you are sure of that part number, I'll get one. All the other aftermarket carbs I've seen reference compatible with 15003-XXX.
I am positive. Although I am not convinced that you need a whole carburetor unless the one you have is not serviceable. Too many people waste money on replacing carburetors because they just don't understand them. I would order a float valve. Then use toothpaste or a very mild rubbing compound on the end of a cotton swab and gently buff the seat.

Look at the top of your carburetor. If it is genuine Kawasaki, you will see a 1 followed by 5 numbers. Add 1500 in front of that and that is the part number.
 
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Understand about probably not needing the whole carb. But parts are hard to come by, and I don't have a JD dealer very close. To me, time right now is important. I use this mower year round for as much I can. I used to make a lot of money setting up carbs for street racers back decades ago, but parts were readily available.
I have a Shindowa weed eater and at about 12 years, the diaphragms gave out. I tried every place to find replacements and or another carb with no luck. I called them, and was told they only support a model for 10 years, when parts are gone they are gone. But I found an aftermarket carb and it's still running today. I'll check for the numbers tomorrow, great info. Thanks.
 
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