Husqvarna Drive/Transmission Issue

jaylees150

jaylees150

Member
Hello all,

I've been working on a Husqvarna LT125 from the mid 90's for a while now and I'm close to fixing it up but I have some questions. (Serial 121696B) (ID No. HE125F36A)
So the main issue is when I start it up and put it into 1st it will move along fine, then when I put the clutch back down and go to 2nd the gear lever is basically stuck and I can't go through the gears. Clutch back up and it will carry on going in 1st. With the engine off I can go through the gears no problem.

Secondly I've changed the engine to a B&S 12hp (284707 0147 01 9311184E) and it's running okay but a bit rough, the mower doesn't have the cutting deck and I read somewhere that the engine governor will act differently without the weight of the deck, can anybody advise if this is right and what I could do about it?

Lastly I could do with knowing the appropriate spark plug gap and accessing a parts manual from somewhere.
Thanks
 
jaylees150 said:
Hello all,

I've been working on a Husqvarna LT125 from the mid 90's for a while now and I'm close to fixing it up but I have some questions. (Serial 121696B) (ID No. HE125F36A)
So the main issue is when I start it up and put it into 1st it will move along fine, then when I put the clutch back down and go to 2nd the gear lever is basically stuck and I can't go through the gears. Clutch back up and it will carry on going in 1st. With the engine off I can go through the gears no problem.

Secondly I've changed the engine to a B&S 12hp (284707 0147 01 9311184E) and it's running okay but a bit rough, the mower doesn't have the cutting deck and I read somewhere that the engine governor will act differently without the weight of the deck, can anybody advise if this is right and what I could do about it?

Lastly I could do with knowing the appropriate spark plug gap and accessing a parts manual from somewhere.
Thanks
Click to expand...
You are polishing a turd. Unless you can get it to shift through the gears, with a working deck, it is only a project to practice on.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
You are polishing a turd. Unless you can get it to shift through the gears, with a working deck, it is only a project to practice on.
Click to expand...
I don't need it for cutting, we've a few pieces of towed equipment at the cricket club that it will be useful for and getting this working is cheaper than buying a quad bike for example
 
Apparently the drive belt is trying to move. Either the drive belt is a little short or there is a bent place on the engine pulley, just enough for belt to drag. Another possible is a raw edge was installed not allowing the normal air cushion that a cloth wrap clutching belt provides. OEM belt was supposedly 1/2" x 88-3/8". One problem is everyone is trying a 88" belt. And some belt uses a rule of +- 1/2" for the belts they sell. This can cause problems when OEM minimum belt length specs. Aftermarket belts are the worst at this so called tolerance range, some are worst than others.

You could try a MTD490-500-0052, an Oregon (1)75-099, or Rotary 8516 belt they are listed as being 88-3/8"
 
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And a good of this belt drag was one mower several years ago here. At first you start up and put into drive, didn't matter which gear, and start moving. When I went to stop is when showed up as the mower would just pull through the brakes even the brake/clutch was fully depressed. That one had a bent pulley.
 
Next question on the same mower, is how do I get these ridiculous wheel covers off to be able to get the wheel off and replace the tyre. Obviously without damaging the wheel
1000020387.jpg
 
First one I have seen with wheel weights but they got to come off by removing the two nuts and washers on the inside of the rim. At least they are the front tires. And remove the plastic rubber center cap and the retaining clip. While you are at it check the bushings play for the spindles.

One note these center caps can be rock hard due to age and requires them to be cut off and replaced.

As for parts you will to use the model product number from the serial number tag as there is at least 20 revisions of the LT125.
 
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