last year's problem needs to be fixed - riding mower will not start - Lowe's T150

T

TLloyd

Active Member
Craftsman T150, 46 inch riding mower, Hydrostatic 19 HP, bought 4/01/2018
CMXGRAM1130041
Part # 954-04219
Made by MTD - 13AL79XT093
Serial 1L128B10384
Made 12/2018
19 HP overhead valve engine
33R877 0033 G1
181117ZD
Serial - 1811272744297

VIDEO link (please work!) -

Mower wouldn't crank. Acted like valves needed adjusting. I adjusted as guided by video. When all back together and new gasket had cured for a day I tried cranking. No crank, sounded identical as from before adjusting. I redid the work, checking to make sure I was Top Dead Center, had new feeler gauges - still same problem and sound. I took plug out and when cranking it spun freely and could hear it 'spitting out' so I knew it was getting compression (other valve closing as it should). Put plug back in - no crank, no change.

What do I start with to try to get it going this year?

I don't have a designated repair/work area so I can't leave it on the carport for a long time. I should have mowed already! The weeds are 4 to 8 inches already!
PLEASE help! For the final mow last year I cut about 2 acres with a 19 inch push mower!!
I GREATLY appreciate any help!
 
Last edited:
Since it spins free with the plug OUT but won't crank with it IN. That tells me the starter is probably fine, it's just hitting too much resistance when it has to fight compression.
First thing I'd do is pull that plug and look inside the cylinder. If there's fuel sitting there, it literally can't compress and the starter just gives up. Happened to me on an old Craftsman once — cranked it out with the plug off, threw a fresh plug in and she fired right up.
 
The typical no crank with plug in but adjusted the valves on a single cylinder Briggs intek sounds like the classic broken compression release laying in the engine sump issue.
 
Okay there is a temporary work around provided it is not hydro locked. Turn the engine until you hit the TDC compression stroke. Now turn just a little pass it. This gives the starter time to come up to speed before hitting the next compression TDC. Warning here as if the ACR is broken pieces of it can bounce up into the gear train and do a lot damage. And I have the governor to be taken out.

But to check for a failed ACR adjust the rocker farthermost away from the flywheel to near zero clearance. This is the intake valve rocker. Now hand spin the engine a few complete turns while watching the intake rocker. IF the ACR is working you will see the rocker close and right @ the TDC it will open slightly and close again. If not then it is an engine pull job. If the ACR is working then readjust the intake to .003". This done two ways. 1. 1/4" down past TDC compression. You will need something that you measure this thru the plug hole. Or 2. just turn the engine until the engine's exhaust valve is fully open to adjust the intake rocker and vica versa for the exhaust rocker which set @ .005".

Also verify that the rocker studs are torqued to 150 in/lbs. I seen them to come loose causing constantly changing clearances. Plus the rocker adjustment lock screws needs to torqued to 45 in/lbs. If either either of these is loose then the adjustment won't stay locked.
 
I would test the battery UNDER LOAD. Try a jump start from your vehicle. With compression (spark plug installed), takes more power to spin/crank the engine.
 
Check grounds for cleanliness and tightness. Remove all and clean slash polish the terminals up. Little metal polish and a rag. Snug back down and test.
 
ILENGINE said:
The typical no crank with plug in but adjusted the valves on a single cylinder Briggs intek sounds like the classic broken compression release laying in the engine sump issue.
Click to expand...
I was hoping it was not compression release - but it was. I was tired of working on it, just didn't feel like doing more this year. Found a local small engine repairman who did the work for under $300. Already spent 7 hours on it making the first mowing of this year. Runs fine, seems quieter - if you can say that about these noisy engines! :oops:
 
StarTech said:
Okay there is a temporary work around provided it is not hydro locked. Turn the engine until you hit the TDC compression stroke. Now turn just a little pass it. This gives the starter time to come up to speed before hitting the next compression TDC. Warning here as if the ACR is broken pieces of it can bounce up into the gear train and do a lot damage. And I have the governor to be taken out.

But to check for a failed ACR adjust the rocker farthermost away from the flywheel to near zero clearance. This is the intake valve rocker. Now hand spin the engine a few complete turns while watching the intake rocker. IF the ACR is working you will see the rocker close and right @ the TDC it will open slightly and close again. If not then it is an engine pull job. If the ACR is working then readjust the intake to .003". This done two ways. 1. 1/4" down past TDC compression. You will need something that you measure this thru the plug hole. Or 2. just turn the engine until the engine's exhaust valve is fully open to adjust the intake rocker and vica versa for the exhaust rocker which set @ .005".

Also verify that the rocker studs are torqued to 150 in/lbs. I seen them to come loose causing constantly changing clearances. Plus the rocker adjustment lock screws needs to torqued to 45 in/lbs. If either either of these is loose then the adjustment won't stay locked.
Click to expand...
Yep, compression release. Paid a local small engine repairman to deal with it. It runs fine! I'm happy!
 
slomo said:
Check grounds for cleanliness and tightness. Remove all and clean slash polish the terminals up. Little metal polish and a rag. Snug back down and test.
Click to expand...
No problems with battery or contacts. It was the compression release. Paid someone else to fix it.
 
FixItFrank said:
Since it spins free with the plug OUT but won't crank with it IN. That tells me the starter is probably fine, it's just hitting too much resistance when it has to fight compression.
First thing I'd do is pull that plug and look inside the cylinder. If there's fuel sitting there, it literally can't compress and the starter just gives up. Happened to me on an old Craftsman once — cranked it out with the plug off, threw a fresh plug in and she fired right up.
Click to expand...
Thanks but it was compression release problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top