EDIT: Problem solved. The problem was a faulty solenoid. Replacing it with a new solenoid did the trick.
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Hi folks,
SHORT STORY
I've got the TORO Timecutter ZS5000 (not the latest version, some 7 years old). Worked with it on Friday without a problem. Saturday, however, it would not start. Nothing.
The following parts do *not* seem to be causing the problem: the battery; the electronic park break module; the push button brake switches on the levers/arms; (the security seat switch is not involved in the starting, only when the PTO is engaged); the fuses; the starter; the PTO switch; the ignition/keyswitch; the engine itself.
That leaves me with the solenoid, and the wiring between the ignition/keyswitch and the solenoid. (Am I missing something?).
I don't quite understand why I do hear a click in the solenoid (which suggests that it works, although the click really is not very loud), but cannot measure any significant voltage coming from the ignition to the solenoid (I measured 0.01V at one point). If I hear the click, that should mean that electricity comes through to the solenoid, right? EDIT: I was measuring the wrong post (the one with the green wire). When measuring the post with the blue wire, it does give 12V, and the blue wire is the one between the solenoid and the keyswitch, not the green wire. I think I mixed them up because in some youtube movies, the solenoid is set up exactly the other way around, and I was not paying attention to the colour of the wires.
Anyway, none of the posts that are on the starter unit side of the solenoid give 12V when the ignition key is in the START-position. This is not good.
How can I be sure it is the solenoid that needs replacing? How can I test if it is a broken wire problem?
Any help and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
LONG STORY
Friday it works without a problem. (Starting it took some time, because I had not used it for a number of months. I had forgotten to disconnect the battery before the inactivity, but had charged the battery beforehand). Saturday, however, it would not start. When I turn the key in the ON position, I hear a soft click coming from the engine. Also, I hear the park break sound when bringing in the arms/levers. That should mean that electronic park break module is functional and that there is juice in the battery. When measured, the battery is 13,8V. (After having had it on a battery charger for a couple of hours. Sunday: down to 12,7V, b.t.w.).
When turning the key from the ON position into the STARTER position, I do hear the click from the solenoid. (The click is not very loud, though. I have heard a louder click of similar solenoids in youtube videos).
However, the signalwire from the keyswitch/ignition to the small LEFT pole (that is: the starter-side of the) solenoid did NOT make my (basic) electricity testing screwdriver light up when trying the starter key (I measured 0.01V with a voltage meter, at one point). As far as I understand, that should light up, because that signalwire should “switch” on the solenoid so that power from the battery is transferred to the starter unit on the engine. So, although I do hear a click in the solenoid suggesting a “switch on” when trying to start it, it does not result in voltage being put through. The pole of the solenoid that is connected to the + pole of the battery does give the same voltage as the battery. The pole on the other side of the solenoid gives 0 Volts no matter what I do. (I might have the function of small poles on each side of the solenoid mixed up/not correct..?)
I checked, cleaned an re-seated the connectors of the keyswitch/ignition and the blade activator/stopper switch (PTO). Made no difference.
I checked the voltage on all poles of the ignition/keyswitch, and in the ON position, all but the pole with the blue wire gave the same voltage as the battery. From looking at a service manual, the blue wire pole is the #1 pole which is the “start” pole. With the keyswitch turned to start, this pole gives the same voltage as the battery.
Checked the two fuses, both still good, both getting the same voltage as battery when ignition in ON position.
I re-seated the electronic park break module plug (as I read this solved the no starting issue for someone. Alas, not for me).
I can start the engine by shorting the solenoid poles with a screwdriver. So, the starter unit is still good.
I'm starting to think that maybe the solenoid is not functioning properly and/or there is something wrong with the wiring coming from the ignition going to the solenoid (through the electric break system, right?).
The following parts do *not* seem to be causing the problem: the battery; the electronic park break module; the push button brake switches on the levers/arms; (the security seat switch is not involved in the starting, only when the PTO is engaged); the fuses; the starter; the PTO switch; the ignition/keyswitch.
That leaves me with the solenoid, and the wiring between the ignition/keyswitch and the solenoid. (Am I missing something?).
I don't quite understand why I do hear a click in the solenoid (which suggests that it works), but cannot measure any significant voltage coming from the ignition to the solenoid (I measured 0.01V at one point). If I hear the click, that should mean that electricity comes through to the solenoid, right? EDIT: I was measuring the wrong post (the one with the green wire). When measuring the post with the blue wire, it does give 12V, and the blue wire is the one between the solenoid and the keyswitch, not the green wire. I think I mixed them up because in some youtube movies, the solenoid is set up exactly the other way around, and I was not paying attention to the colour of the wires.
Anyway, none of the posts that are on the starter unit side of the solenoid give 12V when the ignition key is in the START-position. This is not good.
How can I be sure it is the solenoid that needs replacing? How can I test if it is a wire problem?
Any help and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
I.Q.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Hi folks,
SHORT STORY
I've got the TORO Timecutter ZS5000 (not the latest version, some 7 years old). Worked with it on Friday without a problem. Saturday, however, it would not start. Nothing.
The following parts do *not* seem to be causing the problem: the battery; the electronic park break module; the push button brake switches on the levers/arms; (the security seat switch is not involved in the starting, only when the PTO is engaged); the fuses; the starter; the PTO switch; the ignition/keyswitch; the engine itself.
That leaves me with the solenoid, and the wiring between the ignition/keyswitch and the solenoid. (Am I missing something?).
I don't quite understand why I do hear a click in the solenoid (which suggests that it works, although the click really is not very loud), but cannot measure any significant voltage coming from the ignition to the solenoid (I measured 0.01V at one point). If I hear the click, that should mean that electricity comes through to the solenoid, right? EDIT: I was measuring the wrong post (the one with the green wire). When measuring the post with the blue wire, it does give 12V, and the blue wire is the one between the solenoid and the keyswitch, not the green wire. I think I mixed them up because in some youtube movies, the solenoid is set up exactly the other way around, and I was not paying attention to the colour of the wires.
Anyway, none of the posts that are on the starter unit side of the solenoid give 12V when the ignition key is in the START-position. This is not good.
How can I be sure it is the solenoid that needs replacing? How can I test if it is a broken wire problem?
Any help and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
LONG STORY
Friday it works without a problem. (Starting it took some time, because I had not used it for a number of months. I had forgotten to disconnect the battery before the inactivity, but had charged the battery beforehand). Saturday, however, it would not start. When I turn the key in the ON position, I hear a soft click coming from the engine. Also, I hear the park break sound when bringing in the arms/levers. That should mean that electronic park break module is functional and that there is juice in the battery. When measured, the battery is 13,8V. (After having had it on a battery charger for a couple of hours. Sunday: down to 12,7V, b.t.w.).
When turning the key from the ON position into the STARTER position, I do hear the click from the solenoid. (The click is not very loud, though. I have heard a louder click of similar solenoids in youtube videos).
However, the signalwire from the keyswitch/ignition to the small LEFT pole (that is: the starter-side of the) solenoid did NOT make my (basic) electricity testing screwdriver light up when trying the starter key (I measured 0.01V with a voltage meter, at one point). As far as I understand, that should light up, because that signalwire should “switch” on the solenoid so that power from the battery is transferred to the starter unit on the engine. So, although I do hear a click in the solenoid suggesting a “switch on” when trying to start it, it does not result in voltage being put through. The pole of the solenoid that is connected to the + pole of the battery does give the same voltage as the battery. The pole on the other side of the solenoid gives 0 Volts no matter what I do. (I might have the function of small poles on each side of the solenoid mixed up/not correct..?)
I checked, cleaned an re-seated the connectors of the keyswitch/ignition and the blade activator/stopper switch (PTO). Made no difference.
I checked the voltage on all poles of the ignition/keyswitch, and in the ON position, all but the pole with the blue wire gave the same voltage as the battery. From looking at a service manual, the blue wire pole is the #1 pole which is the “start” pole. With the keyswitch turned to start, this pole gives the same voltage as the battery.
Checked the two fuses, both still good, both getting the same voltage as battery when ignition in ON position.
I re-seated the electronic park break module plug (as I read this solved the no starting issue for someone. Alas, not for me).
I can start the engine by shorting the solenoid poles with a screwdriver. So, the starter unit is still good.
I'm starting to think that maybe the solenoid is not functioning properly and/or there is something wrong with the wiring coming from the ignition going to the solenoid (through the electric break system, right?).
The following parts do *not* seem to be causing the problem: the battery; the electronic park break module; the push button brake switches on the levers/arms; (the security seat switch is not involved in the starting, only when the PTO is engaged); the fuses; the starter; the PTO switch; the ignition/keyswitch.
That leaves me with the solenoid, and the wiring between the ignition/keyswitch and the solenoid. (Am I missing something?).
I don't quite understand why I do hear a click in the solenoid (which suggests that it works), but cannot measure any significant voltage coming from the ignition to the solenoid (I measured 0.01V at one point). If I hear the click, that should mean that electricity comes through to the solenoid, right? EDIT: I was measuring the wrong post (the one with the green wire). When measuring the post with the blue wire, it does give 12V, and the blue wire is the one between the solenoid and the keyswitch, not the green wire. I think I mixed them up because in some youtube movies, the solenoid is set up exactly the other way around, and I was not paying attention to the colour of the wires.
Anyway, none of the posts that are on the starter unit side of the solenoid give 12V when the ignition key is in the START-position. This is not good.
How can I be sure it is the solenoid that needs replacing? How can I test if it is a wire problem?
Any help and suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
I.Q.
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