Raptor 48 SD drive issues

M

MikeLu

Forum Newbie
Model #934596
Hydro Gear ZH-JCBB-3EMB-2PPXX

I’ve had this mower 10-ish years & it’s done a pretty good job. I’ve gotten accustomed to replacing the drive belt or tensioner spring / pulley / bracket regularly, never thought much about it.
Earlier this year I discovered the broken hystat motor bracket(s) and replaced all of them with the upgraded kit…easily enough.
However, throughout this season, I’ve struggled more with this drive system than I think is reasonable: multiple belts, 3-4 tensioner springs & most recently discovered a flat surface on the tensioner pulley, which I found strange (?)
Today I felt the tell-tale sign I’ve come to notice when the belt or spring is about to break: the hystat drive stops pulling momentarily, followed by a lurch or pulse of propulsion as I worked the travel levers back & forth. I immediately shut the mower off and checked below the engine. The belt, tension pulley, spring and motor pulleys were all intact, hystat motor fan blades were in place, although they have damage on the blade ends from back when the brackets were cracked.
I let the mower cool down completely, hoping to rule out an overheating issue in the hystat motors.
When I restarted and gingerly drove the mower to the shop, it continued to surge and pulse. When it was safely in the shop, I left the motor running and took a peek at the system and noticed the belt was vibrating quite a bit, but the tensioner & pulley seemed ok.
Could I have an internal problem with the hystat motors??
 
If that 2" idler pulley only failed once in 10 years you are very lucky. The bearings are over sped on that idler pulley and the bearing can fail in short order.

Also those fans do tend to get heat set up and no longer cool properly. I have replace enough of both items that I keep in stock at all times.

All with that heavy duty frame mounting kit be aware that on some models the engine drive pulley has to be replaced to keep the belt in alignment as the kit lowers the transaxles.

And yes you could internal problems but first do an oil change including the filter to rule out failed oil/filter problem. 20w50 synthetic motor oil with Zinc. Also don't check the full length of that cogged belt for missing pieces.
 
StarTech said:
If that 2" idler pulley only failed once in 10 years you are very lucky. The bearings are over sped on that idler pulley and the bearing can fail in short order.

Also those fans do tend to get heat set up and no longer cool properly. I have replace enough of both items that I keep in stock at all times.

All with that heavy duty frame mounting kit be aware that on some models the engine drive pulley has to be replaced to keep the belt in alignment as the kit lowers the transaxles.

And yes you could internal problems but first do an oil change including the filter to rule out failed oil/filter problem. 20w50 synthetic motor oil with Zinc. Also don't check the full length of that cogged belt for missing pieces.
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I will definitely check alignment of all pulleys since bracket upgrade. Hopefully a good transmission service will alleviate this problem. Thank you!
 
You didn't need to "upgrade" the brackets if you have access to a simple welder. Check your battery box - they crack and are part of the frame. (normally the front of the battery box) I've found that adding a simple piece of angle going from rear of the trans, side to side cuts down the rear twisting. Also recent frame issues I've found is the very front cross part (front axle) around the curved part on the bottom tends to crack. You'll tend to only have issues with the drive belt when the frame is twisting. This tends to happen on... larger operators. ;) If you lower your tire pressure on all four corners way, way down you can save a lot of stress on the frame on the mower, with an extra bonus of giving a much smoother ride. Just don't forget to double check your deck level after adjusting tire pressure. Make sure you change the hydro oil/filters more often then the book says, and purge out the air.
 
In a way he did as the upgrade brackets are thicker and transaxle main brackets have an extra screw in each of them. Also it is not the main axle brackets that break it can some of the others and they are a pain just remove for proper welding. And less than $30 / kit as the last I brought the kits it is just as easy to do the upgrades. Plus the kit comes with all the screws and nuts.
 
StarTech said:
In a way he did as the upgrade brackets are thicker and transaxle main brackets have an extra screw in each of them. Also it is not the main axle brackets that break it can some of the others and they are a pain just remove for proper welding. And less than $30 / kit as the last I brought the kits it is just as easy to do the upgrades. Plus the kit comes with all the screws and nuts.
Click to expand...
Yes, I am fully aware of what is included in the upgrade kit. I have them, installed them, etc. The kits should also come with the bottom cross bracket that goes from the front of the hydros to the other. Many dealers don't say to check the battery box. Some people get funny about drilling the extra hole in the frame for the top new bolt in the side hydro bracket (for some reason?) I've also done my own version with a welder... The kit includes grade 8 bolts as the factory OEM bolts are known to break many times, but for those upgraded you can easily pick those up at any decent hardware store. I have been noticing the front axle/frame tends to crack in the corners. Personally I add metal when repairing the crack so it doesn't happen again. I also add flanges to the battery box as they tend to crack even with the upgraded battery box. As for the brackets being a pain to remove, you don't have to remove them to repair... I do only most of the time to smooth out the welds and paint the finished product. I've also found the front added metal is the perfect location to mount slim lights that don't interfere with the front casters for night time cutting. The only way to see the front frame crack is to remove the foot rest or look up from the ground.
 
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