Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi Slomo, it is a snow blower, so it should have some throttle control. Otherwise, the auger and the operator would be overworked pretty quickly I would think.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
It's been years since I lived in Va. and had to deal with snow blowers, but they are much like a garden tiller except they have a snow auger and friction drive gearing similar to the older Snapper RERs.
It has 2 engagement levers one on each handle bar. The left one engages the auger and the right one engages the transmission. So that when you start it there is no real load on the engine.
Generally speaking I would always set the throttle to the fastest setting to start it using the primer and the choke as needed. The blower has 6 or more forward traction speed settings and 2 reverse speed settings. The engine throttle speed control is not used to control forward speed. I am not sure on snow throwers but on riding mowers the common wisdom is to always run the mower deck at high speed..I would think a snow blower would be the same.
I am thinking that I must have disturbed the link from the throttle control lever to the governor arm… Again this arm is full of holes and I do not have a good diagram that shows where the throttle spring connects
Spit
Generally speaking I would always set the throttle to the fastest setting to start it using the primer and the choke as needed. The blower has 6 or more forward traction speed settings and 2 reverse speed settings. The engine throttle speed control is not used to control forward speed. I am not sure on snow throwers but on riding mowers the common wisdom is to always run the mower deck at high speed..I would think a snow blower would be the same.
I am thinking that I must have disturbed the link from the throttle control lever to the governor arm… Again this arm is full of holes and I do not have a good diagram that shows where the throttle spring connects
Spit
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
There is no reference manual of suggested governor setting (that I have found), so simple trial and error is the prevailing method of tension spring location adjustment.
If all else fails, start with the linkage and tension spring ends connected at one of the middle holes in the governor arm. This avoids running condition extremes that can occur.
One thing that usually works for an engine that has been run for a while is to look closely at the holes in the governor arm because the parts have been working together and that usually leaves "witness or wear marks". The hole where the rod was originally located in the governor should show very minor signs of elliptical wear of the original hole. It also helps to look at the holes with a magnifying glass.
If all else fails, start with the linkage and tension spring ends connected at one of the middle holes in the governor arm. This avoids running condition extremes that can occur.
One thing that usually works for an engine that has been run for a while is to look closely at the holes in the governor arm because the parts have been working together and that usually leaves "witness or wear marks". The hole where the rod was originally located in the governor should show very minor signs of elliptical wear of the original hole. It also helps to look at the holes with a magnifying glass.
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
And you wan the engine at full speed as for the blower not to clog with snow.
As you have multiple travel speeds which each should still some variable control. This to the moving fiction wheel at the transaxle pulley. Note the rubber ring is replaceable if needed.
It sounds like the governor on the throttle side is hook into a fixed point instead being normally on the moving part of the throttle lever. I assuming this based on the fact the engine is not in a run away speed as the governor is limiting the max speed.
Now as for the holes in the governor those setting the max engine speed depending what the equipment manufacture spec'd.
Thanks for the great information. The drive speed is controlled by the friction ring and the lever for the traction speed controls where it is allowed to make contact on the pulley. I have always found that the only reason to move the throttle to a lower speed is to quiet the engine and lower the decibels to talk to a neighbor or maybe drive it across an already cleared area. It has always made sense to me to run the auger only af full engine speed. Of course it requires removing the gas tank to get to the linkage connections to the governor arm. If I have to do a trial and error on moving to multiple holes it might make sense to hook up a remote tank or use a longer gas line on the existing tank so as to avoid multiple removal and re-installation of the tank?
Spit