Sometimes there is enough room between the engine pulleys where you can lock a pair of vice grips made to clamp around a pipe, and lock the handles against something on the frame. Or like on the second picture you can lock on the spacer and do the same thing. Or you can get a 55 ft lb torque stick. It is an extension that limits the amount of torque that can be applied to the bolt with an impact. I have used all three with success. I now just use the torque stick.
ILENGINE
Lawn Royalty
I have also removed a spark plug and turned the crank to get the piston on the power stroke, and then stuffed the cylinder with starter rope through the spark plug hole and then turn the flywheel counterclockwise to jam the rope between the piston and the cylinder head. Must be done on the piston stroke that makes sure both valves are closed or you risk bending a valve.
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
You would use an open end wrench of the proper size or in my a tool I design and had made to hold the Double D while torquing the screw. The two in house holding were design for four different Double D spacers. And I need to redesign for a third one now.
The torquing of these screws is why Warner started making these spacers and other PTO manufactures have now using the same design. Some are short and hard to get wrench in there to hold them; hence, the tool I design was needed to hold better.
With those without the Double D spacer you remove the engine shroud then using a large flat tip screwdriver hold the flywheel. This is done by insert the tip in to the ring and upper against one of the ignition coil mounting posts. This may require a helper as if you are like me you don't have Orangutan arms and legs to reach the screw to tighten it. Much less risk of either having the rope break off in the cylinder or damaging the valves.
thank you for the replies everyone. that spacer is down so far recessed in lower than the edge of the pulley which makes it hard to hold. this spacer does go down into the bore approx. 3/4". my question is this part come out by pressing it out or if its a permanent part of the clutch. i wanted to remove it for cleaning thoroughly the bore area. i didn't want to try to press it out of the bore if it is fixed in place, and starTech do you have a picture of the tool you made?
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
I tried a couple of times to fashion a wrench to hold the double D spacer, but they were short lived after a couple of uses. After that I just went back to pulling the upper shroud and using a prybar stuck into the cast iron fins of the flywheel on some models. On other model, I removed the ignition coils and used a strap wrench wrapped around the flywheel.
I have used the rope in the cylinder trick a few times for smaller single cylinder engines, but not on a V-twin.
Torque at 55 Ft. Lbs. is not exceedingly high but may sure however you decide to keep the engine from rotating, that you do not slip or create damage. Busted knuckles are no fun either. LOL
I have used the rope in the cylinder trick a few times for smaller single cylinder engines, but not on a V-twin.
Torque at 55 Ft. Lbs. is not exceedingly high but may sure however you decide to keep the engine from rotating, that you do not slip or create damage. Busted knuckles are no fun either. LOL
Tiger Small Engine
Lawn Addict
I use a piston stop screwed into the spark plug hole, or a rope stuffed into cylinder, depending upon the engine.
i pressed the double d pretty hard and was afraid to put anymore pressure on it so i left it alone. i made a tool out of a conduit 1 1/2" coupling. ground down the threads, made 4 hacksaw slits, bent in the tabs and drilled a hole for 1/2" bar for leverage. i'll find out tomorrow how well it works.