OK no hotwire

Auto Doc's said:
Thanks StarTech,

The diagram that ILENGINE post was hard for me to read without being able to expand the view. I studied again a little harder with a magnifying glass to see the other fuses you mentioned.
Click to expand...
That's why I dl the owners manual so I could enlarge and rotate the diagram. That diagram is not even in the service manual.
 
And to remove the current terminals you need to depress both retaining wings highlighted in Red in the following image at the same time. U shaped extraction tool.

1759838534925.png
 
thanks guys. i've gotta ask, is there a way to check the wiring on the back side of this fuse holder ?
Also would it pay to check if its maybe a contact issue(?) to do with the metal tabs where the fuses slot into & make contact with ?
As stated i have a multi meter but also a store near me is selling a knock off of the "power probe" tool in case i need that type of tool to test as opposed to the multi meter.
cheers for taking the time to follow this.
 
I'm all for getting the parts information as you study this issue, but the actual problem has not been identified yet.

I suggest you turn the key on, connect the test light to the battery negative post and check each fuse for power on each of the tiny, exposed areas on the back of each fuse.

If they all seem good, pull out one at a time and then reinstall to see if anything activates.
 
thanks for that. the problem i'm having though is that the fuse holder is intermittently making the "crackling" sound. Just the action of pulling fuse can trigger it .
**** just looking at it has set it off !
Instinct is telling me a wire that is in back of fuse holder is the fault so is there a way of testing these for continuity please ?
 
bbbobbbo69 said:
thanks for that. the problem i'm having though is that the fuse holder is intermittently making the "crackling" sound. Just the action of pulling fuse can trigger it .
**** just looking at it has set it off !
Instinct is telling me a wire that is in back of fuse holder is the fault so is there a way of testing these for continuity please ?
Click to expand...
It is more likely the terminals themselves. I yet to see a properly crimp terminal to be loose and open barrel crimps are very tight or at they are with the tool I have here. Just did 4 wire splices and heat shrink tubing yesterday instead using butt connectors. Butt connectors tend to be loose when crimped.
 
One thing about this original post and the engine starting 1st try, I have three ZT all with different twin cylinder engines. Many times for a 1st start, it will just click the starter and not rotate, after the engine starts, every try is fine. I have 275 CCA batteries on all and they sit a week or two. I have guessed the engines are coming to a rest very close to TDC and the ACR just does not have time to release enough compression. Second turn of the key is always fine.

The crackling noise does sound like electrical arcing.
 
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