Kohler CH22 starving for gas

[StarTech]

Really need the spec number of the engine. About 100 different CH22 listed. Also the equipment make and model would not hurt.

Still can be defective fuel pumps. Last year I know for sure Oregon had a bunch bad aftermarket pumps. They would fail at any time. Matter of fact I had three of left from last year. The one installed this year failed after an hour of use. Would not self prime or quit intermediately. Appears to had been defective pump check valves so I just trash the other two.

Rotary also had a problem with them last year but in house quality control caught that one. Their current pumps have passed their in house quality control.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hi Robert,

When it shuts down have you checked for an overheating ignition switch? Is the backside of the switch accessible? What about the after-fire fuel solenoid on the bottom of the bowl getting too hot and failing? Be careful checking for any hot wires or the solenoid because they can easily burn your fingers.

The solenoid connector is bad about spreading the pins and create strange shut down problems.

We've been heavily focused on the fuel system, but a hot electrical circuit can create similar problems. Even a main fuse holder and the fuse often get hot, especially with age.

By the way, a fuel filter being full is not a reliable sign of a fuel starvation. I have seen many run at full throttle with a near empty fuel filter. It is a matter of how much fuel the engine is demanding under load that makes the difference.

That brings us to the carburetor. It would be good idea to pull the bowl and remove the float and needle for inspection, then blow through the fuel inlet in case any debris is stuck in there. I have found sediment and debris caught in them that would act like a shutoff valve.

Hope this helps you

 

[Robert Boudreau]

CH22s-66522 on Yazoo with 62" deck. Both fuel pumps I purchased were Briggs and Stratton. Someone just suggested a possible Oil Pressure Switch malfunction. I looked on the mower and located what I believe to be the switch (to the right of the drain plug). Not sure how to test the switch (other than replacing it)....or, if it's malfunction would shut the mower down (one way or another). But, at this stage, I will try about anything with my capabilities.

 

[Robert Boudreau]

Hi Robert,

When it shuts down have you checked for an overheating ignition switch? Is the backside of the switch accessible? What about the after-fire fuel solenoid on the bottom of the bowl getting too hot and failing? Be careful checking for any hot wires or the solenoid because they can easily burn your fingers.

The solenoid connector is bad about spreading the pins and create strange shut down problems.

We've been heavily focused on the fuel system, but a hot electrical circuit can create similar problems. Even a main fuse holder and the fuse often get hot, especially with age.

By the way, a fuel filter being full is not a reliable sign of a fuel starvation. I have seen many run at full throttle with a near empty fuel filter. It is a matter of how much fuel the engine is demanding under load that makes the difference.

That brings us to the carburetor. It would be good idea to pull the bowl and remove the float and needle for inspection, then blow through the fuel inlet in case any debris is stuck in there. I have found sediment and debris caught in them that would act like a shutoff valve.

Hope this helps you

I assume you are referring to the key ignition switch? If so, this is accessible for a fairly easy inspection. I will check it out in the morning, as I have not inspected it. As for the after-fire solenoid, I clipped the pin completely off, which did not resolve the issue. I had the carb apart since rebuilding it last week. Clean as can be. As far as the main fuse, I will have to look that one up....not sure where that's located - but I will check on it.

 

[Auto Doc's]

I assume you are referring to the key ignition switch? If so, this is accessible for a fairly easy inspection. I will check it out in the morning, as I have not inspected it. As for the after-fire solenoid, I clipped the pin completely off, which did not resolve the issue. I had the carb apart since rebuilding it last week. Clean as can be. As far as the main fuse, I will have to look that one up....not sure where that's located - but I will check on it.

Yes, I am referring to the keyed ignition switch.

 

[Robert Boudreau]

Where did you get these from? Scamazon or Fleabay? OEM parts????

Pumps were made by Briggs & Stratton.

 

[Robert Boudreau]

So the new fuel pumps are not working? Guessing these are OEM Kohler parts?

I pulled the engine covers and cleaned the engine & fins before changing the ignition coils 2 weeks ago.

 

[slomo]

I removed the fuel line going to the carb and placed it in a container. I then turned the key. The pump was pumping gas thru the line into the container. So, the pump is working.

Now pull the carb bowl off. Turn the key on. Carb needle should allow fuel into the bowl area. Get a drip pan ready. Make sure plenty of gas runs out the carb needle and seat.

 

[Robert Boudreau]

Now pull the carb bowl off. Turn the key on. Carb needle should allow fuel into the bowl area. Get a drip pan ready. Make sure plenty of gas runs out the carb needle and seat.

The carb bowl is built into the bottom of the carb (it's not detachable). To get to the bowl, you have to remove the top half of the carb to expose the bowl - which would thus still be attached to the engine. This the original OEM carb - I just rebuilt it.

 

[Robert Boudreau]

The carb bowl is built into the bottom of the carb (it's not detachable). To get to the bowl, you have to remove the top half of the carb to expose the bowl - which would thus still be attached to the engine. This the original OEM carb - I just rebuilt it.

Forgot to mention that after rebuilding the carb and still having the issue, I took off the carb and went through it again. Everything was as clean as could be. No dirt or blockages. Engine started right up - which surprised me, considering I had just emptied the carb to inspect it. I mowed 2.5 hours running better than it had in the past year. Then, it shut down....with just a slight hesitation. 15 minutes later, I had gas back in the filter and restarted the mower - mowing again for about an hour (repeat story). The engine shroud was removed and cleaned when I replaced the coils about 2 weeks ago.