Blade removal
- Thread starter Dhamilton
- Start date
Travlitt
Member
Reviving an old thread. I have the same problem. I blocked the blade with a wooden block but when I try to break the nut loose, the spindle turns along with the pulley above the deck... I've sprayed with PB blaster, waiting for it to hopefully break the rust while I am writing this. I see no flat side on the spindle so that I could hold it in place with a wrench and stop it from spinning (as some circular saws have). The spindle has another nut at the opposite end (on top, on the other side of the deck) so I could use a wrench on that but there is a chance that the top nut (holding the pulley) will break loose instead of the blade side nut.
It is a Murray Select riding mower with a 42" deck (16.5HP). I bought it used and I don't have the manual for it. I would love to check if the nuts are fastened clockwise or counter clockwise but the tag under the seat is so faded that I can't make out the model number.
Does anyone have this information?
Any input is appreciated. Thank you!
It is a Murray Select riding mower with a 42" deck (16.5HP). I bought it used and I don't have the manual for it. I would love to check if the nuts are fastened clockwise or counter clockwise but the tag under the seat is so faded that I can't make out the model number.
Does anyone have this information?
Any input is appreciated. Thank you!
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Use a nut splitter and buy a new nut
If the blade is a riht hans cut then the blade will have a right hans nut so it self tightens in use, rather than self loosens in use
Then thread below the nut gets rusty & caked in dirt so start with doing it back up tight and cleaning the thread
The spindle pulls out from the bottom so you can pull it out with the blade still on then hold the spindle in a vice to attack the blade nut .
If the blade is a riht hans cut then the blade will have a right hans nut so it self tightens in use, rather than self loosens in use
Then thread below the nut gets rusty & caked in dirt so start with doing it back up tight and cleaning the thread
The spindle pulls out from the bottom so you can pull it out with the blade still on then hold the spindle in a vice to attack the blade nut .
Thanks for the suggestions, Bert. I left it drenched in PB Blaster overnight and it broke loose with an impact driver the next day. It saved me the trouble of splitting and replacing the nut. Also, if anyone else has this model, I can confirm it tightens clockwise (looking upward, from under it).
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SeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
How will you prevent that too tight problem in the future?
SeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
By design that nut only needs about 40 ft. lbs of torque .
You could use a drop of anti-seize but it is a risky place to do so, as the nut might loosen while mowing.
I just gave the thread a good clean with a wire brush and then brushed some engine oil onto it. Oil tends to soak into the pores and keep moisture out (thereby lowering the chance of rust and seize).
I tightened each nut well after cleaning and oiling the threads and switched blade types a couple of times after that, without any trouble whatsoever. I should add that I did use an impact driver every time, just because I was in a rush and it was handy. I feel plain oil hits the right balance between too little or too much lubrication for this application, just make sure the spindle/nut threads are as clean and dry as possible when you apply it, otherwise I don't think it will work as intended, as you may actually trap humidity in the pores.
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SeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
"Clockwise"
That's why they don't loosen with 40 lb. torque .