Hi, I recently purchased a 2012 Husqvarna RZ4824F with the Kawasaki FR730V-AS13-R on it. My friend was starting it by jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver. He told me all it needed was a new key switch. I replaced the key switch and nothing. I started checking the wiring harness and noticed some things were unplugged or disconnected. When i checked the only wiring diagram I could find there was a wire going to the solenoid that i didn't recognize. It's a black wire with a small white stripe on it. No idea where it goes. And I found a solid black wire in another part of the harness that looks like a ground and the diagram said connect that to the engine block. I would really appreciate any help with this, Thanks.
Husqvarna RZ4824F Wiring Problem
- Thread starter Bat57
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
If you bought the mower new and got an owners manual with it you will find the wiring diagram in the back of it.
Now if you did what 99% of owners do, remove the keys taped to the middle of the book then toss it out without so much as reading a single page then you can down load another from Husqvarna for free .
Plain black will be grounds and they can be anywhere
The starter solenoid trigger while should be Yellow
When faced with an unknown wiring mess I start by checking the solenoid by jumping from the battery cable to the trigger wire on the solenoid base .
No joy then I double check by running a jumper from ground to the metal base on single trigger solenoid or the other trigger terminal if the solenoid has 2 wires ( yours should only have 1 )
IF that works next step is removing the plug at the key switch and putting a jumper between the B & S positions .
Remember the plug will be a mirror image of the switch so double check the colours before using the jumper
After that it is following the START circuit which are all yellow wires and jump them at every switch till the starter spins
To check the battery has enough balls to spin the engine run some jump start cables from the battery + to the starter +
Engine spins = Stuffed power cable
If the engine does not spin then run another from the battery - to the engine
Engine spins = stuffed ground cable
If the engine does not spin then repeat from your car / truck battery
Engine spins = stuffed battery
engine does not spin = stuffed starter .
Now if you did what 99% of owners do, remove the keys taped to the middle of the book then toss it out without so much as reading a single page then you can down load another from Husqvarna for free .
Plain black will be grounds and they can be anywhere
The starter solenoid trigger while should be Yellow
When faced with an unknown wiring mess I start by checking the solenoid by jumping from the battery cable to the trigger wire on the solenoid base .
No joy then I double check by running a jumper from ground to the metal base on single trigger solenoid or the other trigger terminal if the solenoid has 2 wires ( yours should only have 1 )
IF that works next step is removing the plug at the key switch and putting a jumper between the B & S positions .
Remember the plug will be a mirror image of the switch so double check the colours before using the jumper
After that it is following the START circuit which are all yellow wires and jump them at every switch till the starter spins
To check the battery has enough balls to spin the engine run some jump start cables from the battery + to the starter +
Engine spins = Stuffed power cable
If the engine does not spin then run another from the battery - to the engine
Engine spins = stuffed ground cable
If the engine does not spin then repeat from your car / truck battery
Engine spins = stuffed battery
engine does not spin = stuffed starter .
Thank you for the help. The reason I asked about the Black with White stripe wire that comes out of the harness with all the solenoid wires is because I can start the engine with the key switch. I thought the black/white wire might be some kind of ground wire as i have taken all the safety switches off and performed continuity tests on them and they checked out good. But when I release the Brake or pull one of the Control handles in to move the mower the engine will shut off. I tried grounding the black/white wire to the frame at the solenoid and it still cuts off when i release the break or handles. Not much info on the internet about this and most of it says bad safety switch, but they all check out good and the brake switch I replaced as it was bad. Thanks again.
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
Most likely either the seat switch has failed, the seat connector is unplugged ( many have a shorting strip in them to prevent operators from simply unplugging them), or someone has jumper-ed the seat switch connector. It is meant to be a open circuit whenever someone is on the seat.
Thanks for the info. I will check that out.
Update: I tried using a jumper wire on the seat switch and no change. I took off the jumper wire and put it back on the seat switch. Now I start the mower and engine runs and idles fine. I released the parking brake and the engine kept running fine but before it would cut the motor off. But when I pulled the control arms in the engine tried to shut off again. I have tried pulling each control arm in separately and it didn't matter which arm I pulled in the engine would try to shut off. Not sure what is going on with this thing but ideas would be helpful.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Have you actually looked at the wiring diagram yet ?
if the seat switch has a 4 prong flat plug it can not be jumped at the female side because of the tamper proof shorting strip Star has already alerted you to
Did you read your owners manual ?
Do you understand English ?
To protect the braking system if you try to move with the brake engaged then the engine shuts down ( it is in the owners manual )
So your brake switch is wrong, wired wrong , defective or the wiring to & from it is bad
Did you read everything I wrote about the problem I have with the mower?
It has a 2 prong safety switch, not 4.
Did you read the owners manual?
Can you understand and read English?
I have looked at the wiring diagram. Have you before you give advise and criticize someone?
The brake handle is all the way down and not touching the switch the motor stays running, switch is new. motor runs fine until you try to move with brake off.
This must be beyond your level of expertise , so you don't need to respond to any more of my posts now or in the future.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
1) Yes I read your post and wrote a reasonably comprehensive answer to your no start problem
2) the wiring diagram I found does not show a B & W wire either but does show a 2 terminal seat switch
3) Husqvarna is known for making changes to their wiring , sending out dealers updates but not changing the printed owners manual
3) Husqvarna is the only company that fits the and tamper switches & I have found them on mowers and not shown in the wiring diagrams
5) Yes I have read the manuals, done the trade courses got the certificates and run a repair business
6) here are a lot of people who come here where English is their 2nd 3rd 4th or 5 th language so they may or may not understand what is being aid to them
7) you are there with the mower I am around 10,000 miles away so it is a bit hard to see your mower from here
8) yes I looked at the wiring diagrams in fact I checked 11 of them looking for that B & W wire . however I can read & understand them it would appear that you have difficulties or you would have seen that the lap bar switches & seat switch & brake switches & PTO switch are all connected to one another via the brown wire which is connected to the magneto kill wire ( although that is not shown past the engine pig tail )
9) you got the mower second hand with faulty wiring & replaced the key switch , without trying to do any diagnosis, we have no idea if you bought the correct switch or not as you did not post the numbers nor do we know if any or all of the switches fitted are right or wrong as the switches come both NO & NC and on more than one occasion I have found an owners bought the cheapest of two switches which of course was wrong .
However as I do have manners and do not impose where I am not wanted then I shall wish you all the very best & happy mowing
2) the wiring diagram I found does not show a B & W wire either but does show a 2 terminal seat switch
3) Husqvarna is known for making changes to their wiring , sending out dealers updates but not changing the printed owners manual
3) Husqvarna is the only company that fits the and tamper switches & I have found them on mowers and not shown in the wiring diagrams
5) Yes I have read the manuals, done the trade courses got the certificates and run a repair business
6) here are a lot of people who come here where English is their 2nd 3rd 4th or 5 th language so they may or may not understand what is being aid to them
7) you are there with the mower I am around 10,000 miles away so it is a bit hard to see your mower from here
8) yes I looked at the wiring diagrams in fact I checked 11 of them looking for that B & W wire . however I can read & understand them it would appear that you have difficulties or you would have seen that the lap bar switches & seat switch & brake switches & PTO switch are all connected to one another via the brown wire which is connected to the magneto kill wire ( although that is not shown past the engine pig tail )
9) you got the mower second hand with faulty wiring & replaced the key switch , without trying to do any diagnosis, we have no idea if you bought the correct switch or not as you did not post the numbers nor do we know if any or all of the switches fitted are right or wrong as the switches come both NO & NC and on more than one occasion I have found an owners bought the cheapest of two switches which of course was wrong .
However as I do have manners and do not impose where I am not wanted then I shall wish you all the very best & happy mowing
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
It doesn't matter if you have a 2 prong or 4 prong both style of connectors can have shorting strip.
Find the brown wire at the brake switch that comes from the lap bars and temporary remove it and test. There also maybe a second brown wire coming in from the PTO switch you may try each one.
I suspect you a wiring problem at the brake switch as seems you a couple poles swapped.
If I am correct this switch has two NO poles and one NC pole.
NO = normally open
NC = normally closed
Since we don't what was done before you got the mower anything is possible.
Find the brown wire at the brake switch that comes from the lap bars and temporary remove it and test. There also maybe a second brown wire coming in from the PTO switch you may try each one.
I suspect you a wiring problem at the brake switch as seems you a couple poles swapped.
If I am correct this switch has two NO poles and one NC pole.
NO = normally open
NC = normally closed