Opinions on 2012 Toro titan max Zero-Turn 60" MX6080 for $2800 with 325 hours on it- photo included in post

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NavyNancy

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Is this a good deal ? I had read that the 1 negative aspect was the 3 deck spindles being sealed and needing replacing every 200-300 hours. It has the kawasaki engine , 325 hours- and the deck lift is manual, done by a foot pedal, which I like. Anyone know if the 2 hydro drive pumps on this specific model are reliable and user serviceable..they are the hydro gear commercial zt-3100 ? Any info is appreciated because this would be my 1st zero turn mower. Im also wondering if it is easy to replace the deck belt- drive belt- spindles , engine oil , etc ? I think I can get it for $2800. Id be using it for my property that is about 2-3 acres.
 

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In Wisconsin that price is a little high for a 11 year old unit. Looks like a decent condition unit, you can’t tell a book by its cover. I would be asking the following.
1. When was the drive belt last changed?
2. When was the deck belt last changed?
3. When were the blades replaced?
4. When was the engine serviced and what was done?
5. Why are they selling it? If they are buying new, why aren’t they trading it in? If dealer isn’t offering much there is a reason.
6. Who serviced the unit?
7. When was the last time the battery was replaced?

All these questions will answer the question of how much you may need to stick into it in the next two years. Depending on the answers the maximum I would pay is $2800, if everything was serviced in the last two years. Each answer that is over 2 years ago, I would be reducing my offer by $25-$50 depending on which question and age of component. Finally, when buying used I always ask myself, “What does my better half and my gut say?” If both don’t say “Go for it” I go with them.
 
Rivets said:
In Wisconsin that price is a little high for a 11 year old unit. Looks like a decent condition unit, you can’t tell a book by its cover. I would be asking the following.
1. When was the drive belt last changed?
2. When was the deck belt last changed?
3. When were the blades replaced?
4. When was the engine serviced and what was done?
5. Why are they selling it? If they are buying new, why aren’t they trading it in? If dealer isn’t offering much there is a reason.
6. Who serviced the unit?
7. When was the last time the battery was replaced?

All these questions will answer the question of how much you may need to stick into it in the next two years. Depending on the answers the maximum I would pay is $2800, if everything was serviced in the last two years. Each answer that is over 2 years ago, I would be reducing my offer by $25-$50 depending on which question and age of component. Finally, when buying used I always ask myself, “What does my better half and my gut say?” If both don’t say “Go for it” I go with them.
Click to expand...
Ty...the seller is a dealer who got it from original owners. It looks clean and im hoping the 325 hours on the meter are accurate { I wasnt sure if dealers/ owners had a way to turn back the hour meter} . I can ask the dealer if they have changed belts, oil etc..but then again, they could not be completely honest and tell me the whole unit has been serviced when it came into the shop. If I had to change the deck belt, can I easily do that with the deck on the mower ? Is it easy to change the drive belt or is there a clutch in the way that needs to be 1st taken off, etc ? I am a fan of easy maintenance because I once owned a MTD and it took 2 hours to change the drive belt because so many things were in the way. I sold that MTD the very next day
 
I know I didn’t answer your questions about servicing the unit, but there are too many variables to give you a good reliable answer. Depends on your mechanical skills and your patience. You will have to drop the deck to replace belts and blades. This is a much higher end unit than your MTD and as you go up in quality, you also go up in time needed to service. I hate to be brutally honest, but if it took you 2 hours to replace the drive belt on the MTD it will take even longer on this unit. This owners manual may give you a better idea of how service is done on these units. https://www.toro.com/getpub/67994
 
Rivets said:
I know I didn’t answer your questions about servicing the unit, but there are too many variables to give you a good reliable answer. Depends on your mechanical skills and your patience. You will have to drop the deck to replace belts and blades. This is a much higher end unit than your MTD and as you go up in quality, you also go up in time needed to service. I hate to be brutally honest, but if it took you 2 hours to replace the drive belt on the MTD it will take even longer on this unit. This owners manual may give you a better idea of how service is done on these units. https://www.toro.com/getpub/67994
Click to expand...
Ty....I had read that out of the zero turn mowers, the BADBOY is very easy to replace belts and do routine maintenance. Do you have any suggestions for a 48- 60 inch cut mower that is reliable but easy to maintain ?
 
I can replace belts on Toros in 10 minutes particularly as the titan has the hole for a 1/2" breaker bar in the deck tension arm
The Kawakasi was a lot better than the Kohlers fitted to Titans
Every one I have serviced with a Kohler needed the main jets & idle jets enlarged to get it to run properly.
I have no idea about USA used mower prices
If I was looking at it this is what I would do
1) dissengage both hydros then try to push the mower noting how easy it should beHowever the previos
then reengage the hydros, the wheels should lock when yo try to push it if they hydros are in perfect nick and will be just marginally harder than disengaged if they are about to pack it in
Raise the deck and look underneath for groves cut by the blades , while you are there grab each blade and try to rock them see-saw fashion , pull-push up and down then rotate
Their should be zero rocking, a tiny amount of up down and they should rotate freely & quietly when the belt is removed.Drop the deck and remove the pulley covers , check for deep rust around the spindle .
The tension arm ( without the belt connected ) should swing freely and have no play along it's length and very little up-down at the end
While you are there look at where the spring mounts to the deck to see how badly the hole is flogged oval
Sit in the seat , raise & lower the deck, it should move freely without any jerky movements and not give you a heart attack doing it .
Swing the lap bars. again they should move smoothly both in & out plus back & forth .
Stand well back from the mower and eyeball the front frame the front cross member should be flat & square to the frame .
Very common to find the front warped
Go back and try to rotate the front castors they should be equally as hard to move left right if the frame is square.

If there is a Toro dealer in your area have a look at a new one
At that price I would suspect the left hydro is on the way out
Finally you can not alter the hour meter and on Toros they usually measure PTO hours , not engine running hours.
However there is nothing to stop the previous owner disconnecting it or fitting a new one last year
325 hours over 11 years = 32 hours / year , how many days do you cut your grass ?
Where I am that would be less than 1 hour per cut

Finally have a look at ebay
In the left side panel go down to the bottom and slick on the "Show only completed auctions" box
If there is a time selection then select the longest period
That will bring up all of the listings for Toro Titans in the USA
A green price = sold a red price = not sold
If the dealers price is substantially lower smell rat .

Having said that the question is how much can you afford to spend ?
Can you afford a new PTO clutch or new left hydro ?
Toro have all of their service manuals as a free download from their web site
To get the correct one you will need the numbers from the tag on the frame so photograph it then go home download the owners manual & service manual .
Grab a coffee & muffin then sit down and read them cover to cover .

No ZTR is particulalry hard to maintain apart from the steering wheel types
However they do take TIME and there are a lot of places that require spray lube to prevent them flogging the holes out
The spindle bearings take about the same time no matter what mower you buy
The big difference is the cost of service parts
Ignore the engine but look at blade & belt prices
 
Ty for the replies. It has the Kawsaki FR730V engine , so I figured that was a solid engine. Maybe $2800 is to much for a 11 year old entry level - lightweight commercial mower with 325 hours. I currently use a John Deere F525 from 1996 which is a 48 inch front cut zero turn, but it doesnt use 2 hydro pumps . It has a steering wheel and has 1 single wheel in the back, that allows it to turn like a zero turn. I kinda like the simplicity of that design , less things to break.
 
Out front mowers are the bees knees
Again require a lot of serviceing to keep them running tip top.
people have the stupid idea that commercials will run forever with no servicing which is so far from the truth to be side splitingly funny .
My commercial customers bring in their mowers twice a year without fail for servicing
Almost every season there is new spindle bearings , blades get dropped off every week for sharpening
But people do not see that, all they see is Joe's Mowing out there every week cutting grass
I have 3 Walkers that I service regularly , one is better than 15 years old and had over 3000 hrs on it when the hour meter bit the dust
It gets 2 $ 800 services each & every year
There are 32 grease gun points plus another 18 spray grease points , it takes a lot of servicing but it has never stopped on a job.
I tell a commercial customer the belts are wearing & they will say "replace them".
A residential customer will say " but it is still cutting well "
The F525 is a complicated machine and by now will most likely need a new hydro pump at the minimum .
 
Maybe since I like simplicty, id be better served to find a decent used john deere tractor - mower GT245 with 54 inch deck ?
 
No matter what you buy it will need to be serviced or it will have a very short service life .
Cheaper mowers require less service because they are basically throw away
There is nothing on a mower that requires a Phd in mechanical engineering to be able to keep it running
Deere's tend to be easy to maintain because they are designed by the same people who design real farm equipment .
But a real farmer has no problem with starting their tractor then walking around it with a grease gun and applying 1 stroke to 30 places while it is warming up, every time they use it .
Classic point
The front cross member on LT & GT pivot on a single bolt
Most Toros & al JD's have a grease nipple there to lubricate it
On about 9 out of 10 mowers that come in for service it is bone dry and the bushes require replacing because the owners never bother to read the owners manual let alone the service manual
The most common bush I replace is the steering shaft bush that in most mowers is shown as "oil daily" again 99% are bone dry & ovaled out
I get all of these decks that are spotless clean but the tension arm pivot is ovaled because it has never been lubed
 
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