Help to identify this strimmer make and model

[Fish]

Your carb is likely gummed up with old gas. Only some trimmers used bulbs, they pull fuel into the carb to purge out the air, not primer the engine. The choke is used to pull the fuel into the engine.

 

[Mickrick]

Your carb is likely gummed up with old gas. Only some trimmers used bulbs, they pull fuel into the carb to purge out the air, not primer the engine. The choke is used to pull the fuel into the engine.

Thanks once again. I have replaced all the diaphragms and gaskets in the carb along with the needle assembly. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere down every visible hole while doing this and so am fairly sure it's as clean as it's going to be. So to draw the fuel up the feed pipe I need to run the engine (for 5 seconds at a time dropping in fuel via the air intake port) with the choke fully on? Also, am awaiting new gasket material so I can remake the last gasket from the carb to the engine body as the existing one is a bit manky. If the impulse port is being blocked as I reassemble the engine (due to lack of positive location of the gasket) then I guess there'll be no pumping action at the diaphragm.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks once again. I have replaced all the diaphragms and gaskets in the carb along with the needle assembly. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere down every visible hole while doing this and so am fairly sure it's as clean as it's going to be. So to draw the fuel up the feed pipe I need to run the engine (for 5 seconds at a time dropping in fuel via the air intake port) with the choke fully on? Also, am awaiting new gasket material so I can remake the last gasket from the carb to the engine body as the existing one is a bit manky. If the impulse port is being blocked as I reassemble the engine (due to lack of positive location of the gasket) then I guess there'll be no pumping action at the diaphragm.

I wish I had not seen this reply
For quite some time the check valves fitted to cube carbs have a rubber that is badly affected by carb cleaner
Slide the carb off the mounting bolts but leave the fuel lines attached.
Blow through the carb air hole holding the throttle wide open
You should get a strong flow of atomised fuel blowing out the engine side if the carb is working as it should
And this will happen even if the fuel lines were originally empty as the high speed air will suck fuel right out of the fuel tank .

 

[Mickrick]

I wish I had not seen this reply
For quite some time the check valves fitted to cube carbs have a rubber that is badly affected by carb cleaner
Slide the carb off the mounting bolts but leave the fuel lines attached.
Blow through the carb air hole holding the throttle wide open
You should get a strong flow of atomised fuel blowing out the engine side if the carb is working as it should
And this will happen even if the fuel lines were originally empty as the high speed air will suck fuel right out of the fuel tank .

Thanks once again. Tried this this morning but it had absolutely no effect on the fuel level in the feed pipe - didn't budge a jot. I closed the choke, pulled the starter cord repeatedly and could see the level in feed pipe rising slowly so can tell that there is some connection between the carb and the fuel tank (i.e.the new needle isn't stuck down). However, when I loosened the carb away from the piston side, pushed the outlet of a paddling pool inflator style air pump into the air filter side and opened the throttle, the level didn't budge suggesting there isn't enough vacuum being generated to open the needle. All very frustrating. I dismantled the carb again to look for the check valves that some Youtube videos suggest can become blocked but couldn't see any. Is this a feature of the WA163 would you say or do all cube carbs have internal check valves somewhere? I don't have one but would ultrasonic cleaning help at all?

 

[Mickrick]

Hi, I was given this strimmer and would like to get it up and running again for a local community interest group to use. Trouble is there are absolutely no identifying marks on it whatsoever apart from Walbro and Stihl on the carburretor. I am planning to replace the damaged wiring and probably get a new aftermarket carburettor. Can anybody help me find out what make and model this is and what type of new carburettor it needs? Thanks in advance.
Edit: Carburettor is a WA163 it seems but may only be able to buy a refurb kit. Make and model of strimmer still unknown.

Got the machine running now (a little intermittently at time) - thanks for all your help.
As you can see from the first set of photos, I have this sort of trimming head; yellow with six drive lugs on the spool.
Can anyone tell me how you are supposed to advance the line feed on these heads as it's certainly not a bump head? Maybe loosen the nut, pull apart the spool and head and twist 60 degrees perhaps?
Thanks

 

[Mickrick]

I am - Liverpool in the UK. Definitely looks like the Echo SRM-250E U-handle version from those diagrams. Unfortunately, the ignition coil appears to be discontinued so I'm going to have to bodge this where the lead has almost completely detached. I think a scrap lead and a heavy duty crimp connector are my best bet. Thanks for your help.

A further question if I may. What is the thread designation of the head end of the strimmer? I tried a M8 LH thread but the pitch was incorrect it seems as it bound up within a turn. Any help gratefully received.

 

[Fish]

See if you can remove the arbor, it goes with the old trimmer head. See what is underneath. Just put a drill bit in the hole to lock things, but don't use too much force.

 

[Fish]

It looks like it should come off easily, and putting a replacement head, or even a blade is fairly easy.
This outfit here looks to be over on you side of the world.

Echo SRM-250 (SRM-250) Parts Diagram, Page 9

View Echo SRM-250 (SRM-250) Parts Diagram , Page 9 to easily locate and buy the spares that fit this machine.

www.diyspareparts.com

 

[bertsmobile1]

A further question if I may. What is the thread designation of the head end of the strimmer? I tried a M8 LH thread but the pitch was incorrect it seems as it bound up within a turn. Any help gratefully received.

Unfortunately they do not usually indicate the threads used in parts books lest you buy them from a hard wear shop
M8 LH could be 0.75mm ( super fine ) 1.0mm ( fine ) 1.25mm ( std ) or 1.5mm ( coarse ) pitches
It could also be a 7mm thread as used on some Japanese made trimmers

 

[upupandaway]

It is not a Stihl.
Maybe Echo.

*BUT*
It looks like the Stihl FS81/86 which were made by Zenoah aka: Redmax so he could look at these for parts.

Mickrick,
If I were you, I would try a carb for a Stihl FS74 FS76 HT70 HT75 FS80R FS85R FS55 FS45 etc. It is the same size cube. That's what I did with my 80's Zenoah trimmer.
BTW, that will also fix your primer issue.