Drive Belt Replacement
- Thread starter PlainEdCB
- Start date
Tiger Small Engine
Lawn Addict
When the spring tension is so great that you cannot pull back by hand, take a ratchet strap tie down, hook good mechanics wire to end that is hooked to spring, and slowly tension spring until close to bolt that you hook spring to, and push into place. Caution: use safety glasses and watch spring. If the spring let’s go and pops you in the face it will be very bad.
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
Need a lot heavier and longer version. I make my spring pullers. You want the hook part nearly as large as the spring wire diameter so don't give during the pull but tapered so you get it under the spring hook.
All depends on how the spring is attached. Most I use my spring hook tool to remove the spring but are one of some OEMs that the spring is not to be removed. Those usually have a square hole in the idler arm for a pull bar. And had one that I had to ratchet strap to remove the spring tension there was no other way.
And you sooner or later run those that uses compression springs instead of the tension springs most of us commonly see. Currently working on a JD 652R that uses compression springs.
On top of that on some OEM the drive belt replacement require dropping the hydros as there is no clearance to get the belt on their pulleys; unless, you do. Bad Boy I had in earlier was that way.
Here is the set I have made. The shortest of these is 16". Now of course I got smaller ones for the governor and carburetor springs and those have a pusher end too.
The one that has backbone razor under it actually has a bent end for the Cub Cadets RTZs I replace drive belts on. Some of you may have seen these where mounting point is offset from the hole that you pull the spring through.
And the skinny one was for some springs that it is nearly impossible get to the spring mounts. Haven't used it in a few years. The bottom one is the one I use the most.
I found out how to change the deck belt with no tools. Pretty simple once you understand where to work on it. I have a Raptor SD 54" Mower.
Belt Change with no Tools
I can install or remove the belt in under a minute.
One other thing I did to make service easier it to replace the bolts holding the plastic covers with removable knobs. Cheap at less than $5 each. Real fast and easy to get the covers off to clean out the grass as well as to change the belt.
Removable Knobs
I have 350+ hours on my factory belt? If you going thru them at 10 hours something is VERY wrong.
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Belt Change with no Tools
I can install or remove the belt in under a minute.
One other thing I did to make service easier it to replace the bolts holding the plastic covers with removable knobs. Cheap at less than $5 each. Real fast and easy to get the covers off to clean out the grass as well as to change the belt.
Removable Knobs
I have 350+ hours on my factory belt? If you going thru them at 10 hours something is VERY wrong.
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Mr. Mower
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting and sharing both the video on replacing the belt as well as for the quick release knobs for removing the plastic covers on the deck!
I just ordered some for mine!
Eliot Ness
Member
I have a 2014 Raptor SD and have wrestled with that drive belt a few times. A couple of years ago I added the frame reinforcing kit from Hustler that minimizes frame flex and that has helped a great deal with my rough 3 acres of yard. I also added a brace or two that wasn't on my mower, one in the back between the two hydros.
Last week my drive belt popped off again and I saw the idler pulley spring was off. There is an adjustment where the idler pulley bracket mounts to the frame. Over time it will loosen and allow the pulley assembly to drop a bit. It's a fairly easy adjustment, just tighten the nut until the bracket is stiff and then back off a hair so it moves freely. I couldn't find the hook I used to use to pull that idler spring so I bought a "Performance Tool Brake Spring Hook Tool Ampere" at Advance Auto Parts and it worked just fine.
By-the-way, that bracket I added between the hydros had to be removed to give me enough room to get my hands up there. I sure hope the newer Hustler mowers don't have that drive belt problem!
Since the idler pulley spring had come off I noticed it didn't seem go into the hole as fully as I remembered it so I bought a new spring at my Hustler dealership. It's a lot easier to put the spring on in your garage or driveway when the belt is still on the mower than in the grass at the bottom of a hill (been there, done that).
Last week my drive belt popped off again and I saw the idler pulley spring was off. There is an adjustment where the idler pulley bracket mounts to the frame. Over time it will loosen and allow the pulley assembly to drop a bit. It's a fairly easy adjustment, just tighten the nut until the bracket is stiff and then back off a hair so it moves freely. I couldn't find the hook I used to use to pull that idler spring so I bought a "Performance Tool Brake Spring Hook Tool Ampere" at Advance Auto Parts and it worked just fine.
By-the-way, that bracket I added between the hydros had to be removed to give me enough room to get my hands up there. I sure hope the newer Hustler mowers don't have that drive belt problem!
Since the idler pulley spring had come off I noticed it didn't seem go into the hole as fully as I remembered it so I bought a new spring at my Hustler dealership. It's a lot easier to put the spring on in your garage or driveway when the belt is still on the mower than in the grass at the bottom of a hill (been there, done that).