bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Did you examine it with a 1000 x optical microscope or a 100,000 times electron microscope
If not the phrase urinating into the wind is applicable
If not the phrase urinating into the wind is applicable
FR651V oil filter choices
- Thread starter RayMcD
- Start date
GasSniffer
Well-Known Member
I examine mine with xray glasses - super convenient because I don't have to even cut them open.
I just blow my oil filter out with compressed air and reinstall them...???
GasSniffer
Well-Known Member
Nice, you must save a lot of cash doing that. I may try it with my leaf blower.
Hammermechanicman
Lawn Addict
Interesting. Millions of engines have been made that doesn't use an oil pump and filter. There are also a whole bunch that have oil pumps and no oil filter like some Briggs, many aircraft engines, Volkswagen beetle engines to name a few. Haven't really heard of many of them failing due to issues related to poorly filtered oil. Everyone should use the oil and air filters that make them happy. I have used cheap filters and expensive filters and really haven't seen a difference. Continential engines used in Cessna's have a very coarse screen to filter the oil. A&P mechanic told me "no filter is more reliable than any filter." Use whatever makes you happy and mows the grass.
Been blowing filters out since I was a small kid in the 60's having mowers/minibikes/motorcycles since 8yrs old.
Not having a lot of money in those days we were taught to maintain our own engines.
My oldest engine now is my 1976 Wheel Horse with a 10hp Kolher K series. Its never needed its 1st rebuild yet and still going strong.
I was taught to turn my compressor's regulator down under 25lbs & blow the filter clean from inside out.
Some are HEPA today so they're washable but just be certain its HEPA before washing any out.
About 2 yrs ago my first inner lining I ever tore while blowing one out blew into tiny pieces, that 1yr old no name brand China filter went right in the trash where all those belong.
So I suggest buying OEM or you'll be tearing a carb down now days.
Fwiw- About the only generic parts I use is Stens but they're parts are hit & miss these days.
Not having a lot of money in those days we were taught to maintain our own engines.
My oldest engine now is my 1976 Wheel Horse with a 10hp Kolher K series. Its never needed its 1st rebuild yet and still going strong.
I was taught to turn my compressor's regulator down under 25lbs & blow the filter clean from inside out.
Some are HEPA today so they're washable but just be certain its HEPA before washing any out.
About 2 yrs ago my first inner lining I ever tore while blowing one out blew into tiny pieces, that 1yr old no name brand China filter went right in the trash where all those belong.
So I suggest buying OEM or you'll be tearing a carb down now days.
Fwiw- About the only generic parts I use is Stens but they're parts are hit & miss these days.
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Here’s one of the spammers!Kawasaki 49065-7007
Wix 57035 - 2.3" long - This is the stock replacement size.
Wix 51056 - 2.7" long
Wix 51348 - 3.4" Long
Wix 51516 - 4.8" Long - Also Motorcraft FL400A
I will be going with the Wix 51516 filter for maximum oil volume. Also the Wix filters filter to 21 microns as opposed to the 25 in the Kawasaki OEM filter.
Wix 57035 - 2.3" long - This is the stock replacement size.
Wix 51056 - 2.7" long
Wix 51348 - 3.4" Long
Wix 51516 - 4.8" Long - Also Motorcraft FL400A
I will be going with the Wix 51516 filter for maximum oil volume. Also the Wix filters filter to 21 microns as opposed to the 25 in the Kawasaki OEM filter.
I'm curious, what difference would the length of the filter make? How much time do you want the oil in the filter opposed to lubricating and cooling the engine? We're talking .000156" difference in micron rating. I highly doubt it will make any difference at all. Micron rating is not the only feature that differentiates the quality of the filter.