Most electrical problems --after safety switches-- is the ground. Ck ground attachment to frame/motor for cleanness. I always ck the ground right after Battery voltage.
No crank or spark
- Thread starter navydad2022
- Start date
ok...those rear engine snapper riders have a kill lead from the coil that attaches to a isolated mounting post with 2 others wires...one is from the ignition key and the other is from the safety relay that all the safety switches pass thru to kill the engine. disconnect the wire from the safety relay from the isolated wire post and see if itll start and run. youre bypassing all the safety switches that feed to the safety relay...they are close to 100 to replace if you want the safety to continue to work...this is the part that usually fails on these snappers...
I had a similar No crank issue recently with my 2018 BADBOY ZT Elite and after meter checking every connection and replacing almost every electrical component, I found the new solenoid was not lifting internally to permit the voltage to the starter, so even if the solenoid shows 12+ volt at the input side it may not be functioning internally.
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
Thank you,l Will and also l'm putting in a new solenoid just in case.ls it true to say that the solenoid is in charge of cranking starter.
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I'll try it out and get back
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
Thank you
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
Thank you for everything on your expertise, I will certainly try that
I have a 2017 Snapper SZ2246 zero turn that I refurbished. I had to replace the diodes that are inline on each wire that connects to the magneto for each cylinder. Engine is a Briggs & Stratton Intek V-Twin 22 HP, 44N677-G10. When I turned the key off spark was still getting to plug because diodes were bad and connector on one magneto was rusted off. I was able to temporarily connect the wire while i ordered a used magneto and 2 new diodes.
Another thing I've noticed is, on occasion engine wouldn't turn over with key was in start position. I wiggled the key some and engine started. Looks like I'll be replacing the start switch before long.
I did find owner's manual and parts manual, they are pdf files. I finally located the B & S engine and parts manual from the Briggs & Stratton web site. Both manual sets leave a lot to be desired as do both web sites (my opinion as a retired software engineer and technical writer). Most of my "how to" was found by carefully watching several YouTube videos with some cursory help from manuals, mostly exploded diagrams on mower and engine.
Another thing I've noticed is, on occasion engine wouldn't turn over with key was in start position. I wiggled the key some and engine started. Looks like I'll be replacing the start switch before long.
I did find owner's manual and parts manual, they are pdf files. I finally located the B & S engine and parts manual from the Briggs & Stratton web site. Both manual sets leave a lot to be desired as do both web sites (my opinion as a retired software engineer and technical writer). Most of my "how to" was found by carefully watching several YouTube videos with some cursory help from manuals, mostly exploded diagrams on mower and engine.
Confused? Take a small junmper wire and go from the battery pos and touch the small connection on the solenoid. Usually it is a yellow or orange wire. If there is another small connection, it should go to ground. If the solenoid turns the starter, then all that is good. If not, then either the solenoid is not grounded good or its bad. If it does spin the starter, then there is a problem either with a safety switch or bad ignition switch.
When the engine is spinning, check for spark... probably two different issues.
When the engine is spinning, check for spark... probably two different issues.
navydad2022
Well-Known Member
I tested the ignition switch and it tested good,and as for the solenoid l jumped it and All it did was click,no action on starter