How do you remove fuel tank on a YTH2348 Husqvarna
- Thread starter Willcas
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
With very much difficulty.
The tank went on before the rear mudguard
The mudguard went on before the dash went on
The dash went on before the steering wheel went on
So removal is the reverse of this , or loosening all of these to give you enough room .
Generally you can get by with removing the battery and loosening the bolts at the bottom of the dash panel / tower
Then remove the seat & the springs which also hold the mudguard.
Now remove the hoses from the tank .
After that you can usually lift the rear just high enough to wriggle the tank out
I have only seen on shaved monkey video on U tube about this and he takes the 500lb gorilla approach and bends the mudguard because he was too lazy / stupid to loosen the dash bolts
This proceedure is the same for all of that style mowers .
Some that have controls that poke through the mudguards might require the arm to be removed.
You can take everything off but it is 5 hours work.
The tank went on before the rear mudguard
The mudguard went on before the dash went on
The dash went on before the steering wheel went on
So removal is the reverse of this , or loosening all of these to give you enough room .
Generally you can get by with removing the battery and loosening the bolts at the bottom of the dash panel / tower
Then remove the seat & the springs which also hold the mudguard.
Now remove the hoses from the tank .
After that you can usually lift the rear just high enough to wriggle the tank out
I have only seen on shaved monkey video on U tube about this and he takes the 500lb gorilla approach and bends the mudguard because he was too lazy / stupid to loosen the dash bolts
This proceedure is the same for all of that style mowers .
Some that have controls that poke through the mudguards might require the arm to be removed.
You can take everything off but it is 5 hours work.
Thought I would post this for future reference. First off, "Thank You" to bertsmobile1! I found your post on here and it really helped me pull my tank out to repair! I have a couple of added suggestions to make life a bit easier for someone else.
#1 Don't forget to pull the mower deck height levers rubber handle off (as bertsmobile1 stated).
#2 Cut (2) - 3 ft lengths of a 2x2 to put under each fenderwell to raise the rear up (gradually on each side) until high enough to remove tank. (I figured this part out when re-installing tank. I actually used a maul and a mattock)! LOL
#3 I removed the 4 bolts nearest the rear (under where the battery was) and only loosened 6 turns, the front 2.
#4 Make note (I didn't notice at the time) The bolts that hold the seat on, is a wide bar with the bolts attached. It WILL fall down once the tank is pulled out. So either put the nuts back on before pulling tank out, or do it after pulling tank. Saves a lot of naughty words!
I had a crack in my tank and it was leaking. I used a soldering iron to fuse cracks (after ridding the tank of ANY fuel and rinsing out well), then filled with water to make sure no leaks.Then used a plastic tank putty repair and after drying I slathered it with a layer of Epoxy. So far, so good! Hope my input is helpful.
#1 Don't forget to pull the mower deck height levers rubber handle off (as bertsmobile1 stated).
#2 Cut (2) - 3 ft lengths of a 2x2 to put under each fenderwell to raise the rear up (gradually on each side) until high enough to remove tank. (I figured this part out when re-installing tank. I actually used a maul and a mattock)! LOL
#3 I removed the 4 bolts nearest the rear (under where the battery was) and only loosened 6 turns, the front 2.
#4 Make note (I didn't notice at the time) The bolts that hold the seat on, is a wide bar with the bolts attached. It WILL fall down once the tank is pulled out. So either put the nuts back on before pulling tank out, or do it after pulling tank. Saves a lot of naughty words!
I had a crack in my tank and it was leaking. I used a soldering iron to fuse cracks (after ridding the tank of ANY fuel and rinsing out well), then filled with water to make sure no leaks.Then used a plastic tank putty repair and after drying I slathered it with a layer of Epoxy. So far, so good! Hope my input is helpful.
Last edited:
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Thanks for the heads up
Would have been a lot better to use milk bottles than putty.
The putty does not chemically bond so will not make an water tight seal should the stitching with the soldering iron fail
It is very easy to do and a hair drier actually works a lot better as I have found out since the original thread
Better temperature control.
Takes a bit longer but does not make the plastic hot enough to soften & slump or melt.
Good luck .
Would have been a lot better to use milk bottles than putty.
The putty does not chemically bond so will not make an water tight seal should the stitching with the soldering iron fail
It is very easy to do and a hair drier actually works a lot better as I have found out since the original thread
Better temperature control.
Takes a bit longer but does not make the plastic hot enough to soften & slump or melt.
Good luck .
You are so correct! Got home from a short camping trip and smelled gas in the garage. Found that there is a very slight leak. Evaporates before it drips on floor, but it did wet my finger. Going to go the milk bottle route this time, and I have a heat gun, so that should speed it up a bit. I'll let you know, and thanks for that heads up!
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
You have made the job a lot harder for yourself as to work the plastic has to be absolutely clean so you will have to get all of the putty out, scrape with a stanley knife blade or really sharp chisel.
Plastic will only bond to plastic so any dirt or left over putty will prevent it bonding .
final wash with acetone & a stainless steel brush ( must be stainless, not plain steel or brass ) will help .
Put a thin strip over the crack then a wider strip over it and a wider sill over the other two
Where the crack does not join together I V groove the crack, fill with round rod, still using the hot air gun, then patch over the rod .
Most 5 gallon chemical drums are HDPE and about the same thickness so make good practice materials.
Plastic will only bond to plastic so any dirt or left over putty will prevent it bonding .
final wash with acetone & a stainless steel brush ( must be stainless, not plain steel or brass ) will help .
Put a thin strip over the crack then a wider strip over it and a wider sill over the other two
Where the crack does not join together I V groove the crack, fill with round rod, still using the hot air gun, then patch over the rod .
Most 5 gallon chemical drums are HDPE and about the same thickness so make good practice materials.
Well, I gave it my best shot, but chased leaks constantly. The original leak was on a rounded surface and in a VERY inconvenient spot to try to repair with my lack of experience at this. I can solder gold, silver and lead solder with no problem, but this one unfortunately beat me. Ordered a new tank today. I want to thank you very much for your help and I'm sure I'll be here again! "Thank You" bertsmobile1!