McCulloch Chain Saw 310 No Start !!!
- Thread starter OldDiyer
- Start date
oldlawnguy
Well-Known Member
I agree with slomo and bertsmobile1. You are rolling the dice with that BeeBay carb and adding another variable. What the seller tells you and what is reality are usually 2 different things. Maybe you got lucky for $12.99, but a genuine Walbro C1 carb tested and ready to go is worth more than that given they don't make anymore and there is not drop in sub.
I'd stick to your original plan on trying to get the original carb working with a Zama carb kit. That $12.99 carb could be your backup or just return it for a refund. A lot of sellers are daring you to go through the hassle of returning, just like rebates (most never fill out the form).
Troubleshooting is the the process of eliminating variables one at a time to get to root cause. In reading the thread and advice the carb appears to be the right focus for now IMO. As a DYIer myself I know it can be frustrating, but the pro and advanced DYIer advice you get on this forum is worthy to heed. Statistics doesn't lie. As I said previously I think that tuning a saw and getting it to fire are sometimes the same thing especially for a DYIer stiff such as myself.
You said you had running for 5 minutes so I think that's promising.
Hang in there you are savvy enough to get the puppy going and having fun and satisfaction doing so.
I'd stick to your original plan on trying to get the original carb working with a Zama carb kit. That $12.99 carb could be your backup or just return it for a refund. A lot of sellers are daring you to go through the hassle of returning, just like rebates (most never fill out the form).
Troubleshooting is the the process of eliminating variables one at a time to get to root cause. In reading the thread and advice the carb appears to be the right focus for now IMO. As a DYIer myself I know it can be frustrating, but the pro and advanced DYIer advice you get on this forum is worthy to heed. Statistics doesn't lie. As I said previously I think that tuning a saw and getting it to fire are sometimes the same thing especially for a DYIer stiff such as myself.
You said you had running for 5 minutes so I think that's promising.Hang in there you are savvy enough to get the puppy going and having fun and satisfaction doing so.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Cube carbs are basically all the same internally
Only 3 types
The big difference is the size of the venturi ( hole ) .
after that is is nothing more than how it hooks up
The good thing is most of the control shafts are the same diameter & only held in with an E clip.
Most of the butterflys are held to the shaft by a single screw so it is not a big job to swap them between carbs and I do this fairly often.
The only "trick" to it is to stake the threaded ends of the screw to stop them undoing in use and be gentle as the shafts bend easily and you can oval the hole they pass through .
And yes you can fit a carb that has a purge valve on it but you will probably find you need to use a remote purge valve and then cut a new hole in the fuel tank for the purge line .
Just remember that all the carb does is mix fuel droplets into an air stream and that ratio is the same regardless of what the fuel is going into ( around 13:1 )
All of the cube carbs have the same mounting centers so will bolt onto the engine.
The size of the venturii controls the maximum amount of fuel tat can be drawn into the engine.
A smaller venturi will make the engine easier to start , have a much sharper throttle response and may reduce the top speed
A bigger venturi will make the engine sluggish and tend to flood at low throttle openings .
Tuners have been swapping carbs on petrol engines from the very first day a petrol engine was sold.
See if you can dig up an IPL for your saw and even better from a couple of different countries
Most saws used more than one carb over their production run.
Unfortunately I have never found a Walbro-Zama-Tilotsen interchange chart but it would be a massive advantage for repairers.
Only 3 types
The big difference is the size of the venturi ( hole ) .
after that is is nothing more than how it hooks up
The good thing is most of the control shafts are the same diameter & only held in with an E clip.
Most of the butterflys are held to the shaft by a single screw so it is not a big job to swap them between carbs and I do this fairly often.
The only "trick" to it is to stake the threaded ends of the screw to stop them undoing in use and be gentle as the shafts bend easily and you can oval the hole they pass through .
And yes you can fit a carb that has a purge valve on it but you will probably find you need to use a remote purge valve and then cut a new hole in the fuel tank for the purge line .
Just remember that all the carb does is mix fuel droplets into an air stream and that ratio is the same regardless of what the fuel is going into ( around 13:1 )
All of the cube carbs have the same mounting centers so will bolt onto the engine.
The size of the venturii controls the maximum amount of fuel tat can be drawn into the engine.
A smaller venturi will make the engine easier to start , have a much sharper throttle response and may reduce the top speed
A bigger venturi will make the engine sluggish and tend to flood at low throttle openings .
Tuners have been swapping carbs on petrol engines from the very first day a petrol engine was sold.
See if you can dig up an IPL for your saw and even better from a couple of different countries
Most saws used more than one carb over their production run.
Unfortunately I have never found a Walbro-Zama-Tilotsen interchange chart but it would be a massive advantage for repairers.
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Still waiting for parts but was looking on the Zama site and found a replacement carb number for the one I have C1-M2B but also listed as obsolete. So I searched that number and found one new in the UK for $59.00 plus $27.00 shipping guess that isn't going to happen as I'm not that flush with money. As soon as parts arrive I'll get back to what I have.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Give Randys a ring
HE is good at finding obsolete parts or knowing what other bits will fit .
HE is good at finding obsolete parts or knowing what other bits will fit .
upupandaway
Well-Known Member
I fiddle my stuff and swap\modify parts here and there. As I mentioned before I have the McCul 510. While i got mine to work by rebuilding the carb(i think i got my kit from Randy...) I still have 1 quark with it that it won't idle(yes, i replaced all seals among other things).
-SO- being a hacker as i am, I am tempted to get one of these to replace the original carb... Carb It looks like the only catch is I would need to run a return fuel hose as it originally has only one fuel line. Being i believe your motor is very similar to mine, I'll post if i take the plunge and it solves my quark.
Just checking in to let everyone know that all the parts showed up and I got both of the carbs cleaned and installed rebuild kits in both. I did get the original carb reinstalled on the saw but didn't have time to try running it today. Will see what happens tomorrow. Will keep you posted. If the original doesn't work I have the second one to try.
OK So here I am again, this time I would like to say ThankYou to everyone that replyed to my question. I read all the replys and just used all the information to make a judgement as to how to go about my repairs but again Thank You all. Seems like this will be my go to site for questions about my lawn stuff if needed.
So this is how and what I ended up doing. As I had posted before I did replace the gasket diaphragm kit and sprayed with carb cleaner still didn't run kind of tried but never got it to really be a runner. I ordered the full kit from Randy and also did get a whole used carb from Ebay. After getting all the parts together I went ahead and completely rebuildt my original carb. This time I also used my ultrasonic cleaner to be sure things really got cleaned out. Got time this morning to see how things worked out and with a little messing around the thing started and I got the carb adjusted somewhat in that it would run on is own, wouid accelerate to HI speed with out any falling out so let it cool down and tried it again. Started right up but did have to tweek the adjustments just a bit as I believe someone said that may happen. At this point things are good to go.
One thing I would like to say to lit others know when I set up my cleaner I used Super Clean to do the carb I did mix it with water and used a plastic bag but this stuff stained the carb instead of nice and polished looking its kind of a very dull black/brown color. Guess this isn't going to matter because its working great and is under all the covers so no one sees it.
THANK YOU !!!!!
So this is how and what I ended up doing. As I had posted before I did replace the gasket diaphragm kit and sprayed with carb cleaner still didn't run kind of tried but never got it to really be a runner. I ordered the full kit from Randy and also did get a whole used carb from Ebay. After getting all the parts together I went ahead and completely rebuildt my original carb. This time I also used my ultrasonic cleaner to be sure things really got cleaned out. Got time this morning to see how things worked out and with a little messing around the thing started and I got the carb adjusted somewhat in that it would run on is own, wouid accelerate to HI speed with out any falling out so let it cool down and tried it again. Started right up but did have to tweek the adjustments just a bit as I believe someone said that may happen. At this point things are good to go.
One thing I would like to say to lit others know when I set up my cleaner I used Super Clean to do the carb I did mix it with water and used a plastic bag but this stuff stained the carb instead of nice and polished looking its kind of a very dull black/brown color. Guess this isn't going to matter because its working great and is under all the covers so no one sees it.
THANK YOU !!!!!
oldlawnguy
Well-Known Member
Nice job!!!