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PTmowerMech

PTmowerMech

Lawn Addict
This is an older gray craftsman with the 3 speed, floorboard shifter, with the high/low on the side. Anyone got a model number on a mower like this?

No sticker left.
20201113_101315.jpg
 
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Craftsman 917276050 front-engine lawn tractor parts | Sears PartsDirect

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I think I've got the right model number. Now now to the problem at hand.

New Coils. One wasn't firing. The other was taped up...

The Kohler CV22S
Spec: 75534

It'll turn over but won't fire unless kill wires are disconnected.

This wiring diagram doesn't make sense to me at all.

White wire on solenoid is getting 12v, because it turns over. But something is keeping the coils from firing when kill switch is connected.

Seat safety switch tested good. Also the clutch switch has to work because it won't turn over when the clutch isn't pressed.
 
Are you sure you have the correct model number. That diagram hints to a twin cylinder single ignition module engine like a MV20 not you twin cylinder two ignition module engine
 
No sir, I'm not sure. The sticker is gone. Just trying to match it with something close. It does have one kill wire going to two coils. So I was hoping there would be no difference in the rest of it. One thing I can see wrong, is the small wires going to the solenoid, both are black. (one double black. The other is a single black) The single black wire is rigger nigg'd into a white wire coming from the keyswitch. UGH..

The kill wires aren't grounded out on the intake (from being squeezed too tight or rubbing.
 
What you have apparently is a failed ignition coil internal steering diode. Usually you end up replacing both coils to resolve the problem; unless, you can figure which one has the bad diode. Should be able to use the diode of your meter for this. I can check this out sometime today after my feed run in the morning.

I haven't tried this yet but you might be able to install a harness (styled after the Briggs harness) where the diodes are external to coils. As I said I haven't tried it yet as I only had case where the internal diode of one of the coils had failed. It was a rush job so I just replaced both coils two years ago.
 
PTmowerMech said:
No sir, I'm not sure. The sticker is gone. Just trying to match it with something close. It does have one kill wire going to two coils. So I was hoping there would be no difference in the rest of it. One thing I can see wrong, is the small wires going to the solenoid, both are black. (one double black. The other is a single black) The single black wire is rigger nigg'd into a white wire coming from the keyswitch. UGH..

The kill wires aren't grounded out on the intake (from being squeezed too tight or rubbing.
Click to expand...
Have you connected an ohmmeter between the coil kill wire and ground and what readings do you get with the key switch in the off, on and actuating and deactivating the seat switch?
 
Verified. You can test the coil's steering diode with the kill wire disconnected using the standard diode test feature on your test meter. Place one on the coils metal core and other on the kill tab. Of course you need to reverse the leads as to test diode both ways. This was tested on the 24 584 45-S which is now superseded to 24 584 201-S. The coil with shorted diode will be the culprit if no shorts found in the kill circuit otherwise. Kohler does recommend replacing both coils if one is found shorted.

Now off to four feed stores. Let see 2 bundles steel fence posts, Crushed oyster shells, Whole corn, and chick starter. Oh this should only take three hours.
 
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