Briggs and Stratton 550E not starting

[fizzle1]

@StarTech,

Thanks for info. I looks like I can just change the jet assembly. I looked up the part number but it doesn't match with the numbers on the service bulletin.

My engine model number is: 09P702 0142 H1

Results | Briggs and Stratton Europe

www.briggsandstratton.com

 

[StarTech]

Well it does have a drain; just many people don't know it is there. Just need hex bit to get it out. The problem there is no fuel shut off valve so you end up draining the whole fuel tank.

 

[Rivets]

Tried removing that “drain” Just broke the body, assumed it was glued or cast in.

 

[StarTech]

Both the old style 591492 and the new style 594632 are removable and are picture below with the plugs removed.

 

[ILENGINE]

Well it does have a drain; just many people don't know it is there. Just need hex bit to get it out. The problem there is no fuel shut off valve so you end up draining the whole fuel tank.

Or it sets so close to the deck that you can't even begin to get a hex wrench in the hole.

 

[StarTech]

It called modifying the hex wrench. When I work SRC we had one place on a forms burster that a standard hex wrench would fit we cut half of short side off to fit in the hole where we had to make the adjustment for 8 lbs of pressure between the feed rollers.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Out of curosity, do any of you fit a tap to the fuel line when you service the mower ?
I was taught to do that when I took over the business and do it as an SOP.
About 1/3 of my customers actually do shut off the fuel after every use and run the engine dry .

 

[Rivets]

I personally feel it is a waste of time and money. Most of the time it is a bandaid and gives the customer a false sense of security. Don’t do it unless the customer asks for it.

 

[Ron_AU]

I've just joined up to add to this thread.
Old Sanli mower, with exactly the same symptoms. Starts on full choke, revs, then dies.
Have done all of the checks, cleaned out carb, new plug, etc. No change.
Stripped the motor down to basics, just to check for internal wear and see if the governor teeth are still intact, no problems noted.
Replaced carb with new, no difference.
Mutimetered the coil, all ok. BUT remembered that from a previous problem, the low voltage from a multimeter won't show up any short circuits which cut the spark at higher voltages.
Replaced the coil, runs like a dream now.

As it was,a dead coil or burnt exhaust valve were the only two problems left that were possible culprits.
But turning it over by hand showed compression was fine.

Location: Adelaide, South Australia.
Sanli is a Chinese brand, engine is some Honda clone I believe. Around a quarter of the price of a genuine Honda mower. Great for cheapskates such as myself!
Not popular/available in the states? Not represented on your list of makes.

 

[TylerFrankel1]

How do I test the automatic choke to make sure it is working?

I assume the choke is in open position when first started and closes as engine warms up?

The opposite happens with chokes, actually. The choke plate is 'closed' and blocks most air flow when off, then opens to let air in when warm. This engine does not have a choke though. I worked on a couple of these recently. Luckily for me the problem was only the jets were plugged, and I used a sewing needle to clean them. If the fuel is good. I split the plastic white thing in one carefully, and it went back together and worked fine. It is strange that you are having this problem. The carb is still suspect. When I was putting one of mine back together, a plastic cylinder shaped object that goes down the throat of the carb came loose, and I had to re-seat it. If you have found any such piece, check to make sure it is in place. Otherwise, if you have access to a known-good carburetor, check it with that.