Blown engine... are these models interchangeable?
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Boobala
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Going back n forth looking at these pics and diagrams driving me crazy, looking at the harness on the cardboard really drove me crazy with that shadow I thought was a wire !! ( LOL ) No matter what,.. there will be splicing to do, did you get any other wire harness "adapters with the new engine, ?? .. ALSO, if you could clean-up the old harness and separate the wires so I can see the colors of the wires better, that would be a big help, then plug the old harness plugs together so I can see which color goes to which color something like in the enclosed pics below.. Sorry, this is long and drawn out, it would be easier if I was there .......
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I got absolutely zilch in the box other than the engine itself. Not even a shred or paperwork.
I will get more, better pics ASAP and PLEASE don't apologize - I really appreciate the help!
Okay, let's see if this helps...
Here's the infamous "cardboard wire" which is the plug on the right of image above.
The longer white with black (ground?) went to the carb... the ground was just dangling free.
The connector with orange/red plugged into the wires from stator - red to red, orange to black.
I'd like to have headlights, but, at this point, I could gladly live without them.
Here's the infamous "cardboard wire" which is the plug on the right of image above.
The longer white with black (ground?) went to the carb... the ground was just dangling free.
The connector with orange/red plugged into the wires from stator - red to red, orange to black.
I'd like to have headlights, but, at this point, I could gladly live without them.
Boobala
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OK a little at a time..... in the pic of old harness ... 
..... those appear to be the carb solenoid wires and they hook-up like in this pic...
.... then..the next wire down, APPEARS to be a slip on spade type connector w/black wire, (1) it should probably go to the coil ( the kill wire ) THIS BETTER NOT have voltage when everything is hooked-up with key on........ does it look like that's what it is .. ?? then the engine to mower harness connectors do you remember where the smaller connector went.. ?? I think it MIGHT have connected to the old stator wires ..?? ( remember ... I have to go back N forth with your pics on the puter ) NOW..in this pic .. 
......... are these wires/conn. part of the harness laid out on the cardboard (the old engine harness .. ?? ) I'm thinkin it's the solenoid wire and the kill wire... ?? UR turn ... ( LOL )
DAMN, that first pic didn't come out big... U took that with a cellphone didn't ya ..?? ..wanted this size to show wires at top ..
..... yeah that's more betterer !!
..... those appear to be the carb solenoid wires and they hook-up like in this pic....... then..the next wire down, APPEARS to be a slip on spade type connector w/black wire, (1) it should probably go to the coil ( the kill wire ) THIS BETTER NOT have voltage when everything is hooked-up with key on........ does it look like that's what it is .. ?? then the engine to mower harness connectors do you remember where the smaller connector went.. ?? I think it MIGHT have connected to the old stator wires ..?? ( remember ... I have to go back N forth with your pics on the puter ) NOW..in this pic .. ......... are these wires/conn. part of the harness laid out on the cardboard (the old engine harness .. ?? ) I'm thinkin it's the solenoid wire and the kill wire... ?? UR turn ... ( LOL )DAMN, that first pic didn't come out big... U took that with a cellphone didn't ya ..?? ..wanted this size to show wires at top ..
..... yeah that's more betterer !!Let me get back to you in a bit with more info... for some reason I can't recall where the hell the single black wire with spade connector went. Thought I took pics of everything, but I guess not.
Would it be easier to just send this back and get something more compatible? Do they even make them like the old motor anymore?! I'm just concerned about voiding the warranty after this whole debacle.
Would it be easier to just send this back and get something more compatible? Do they even make them like the old motor anymore?! I'm just concerned about voiding the warranty after this whole debacle.
Boobala
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WELLLL I don't know... they may not take it back, if they do, they need to have a match for your stator, (NO REGULATOR) model...
if not, THEN it's cut and splice time, or you could spend about $15.00 - $20.00 for a flywheel puller .... see this ..View attachment 38134
then swap the stators ..... you should call where you bought it and explain things BEFORE you cut any wires or scratch up the newbie
also there may be a restocking fee ..?? .. ..:mur:.. :frown: ......... UR turn....
Got it from Amazon. Can return it no problem. Leaning towards doing that and saving everyone's sanity. Might just hold on to the mower, because everything else is in great shape, and try to find a drop-in direct replacement - which I thought this was. Briggs & Stratton website/Support is ZERO help.
Gonna have a beer and consider.
(I owe you guys a few for your help, btw... might have to get a mailing address. :drink
bertsmobile1
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Reread what I said.
I told you how to wire it up.
You will have to cut some wires to do it and fit some new plugs.
Briggs used to sell rewire kits with all of the various plugs so you could just swap the wires over but I have not been able to get one .
There are not many wires ,
The only real difference is the fact that the new engine has a lot better alternator so all you have to do is to wire the new alternator into the old engine plug.
bertsmobile1
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Yes the long gray wire goes to the carb and the ground wire on the plug goes to the tiny bolt behind the carb that holds the metal cover under the engine.
The black wire with the spade terminal will go to the magneto.Leave it off for now
That leaves the alternator wires.
Old system has 2 of them
New system has 1 of them
Red wire goes to the red wire so cut the plug with the red & black wire off the harness on the cardboard and put a single spade connector on it.
Cut the round white plug of the red wire poking out of the rectifier on the new engine and put the other 1/2of a spade connector on it.
Forget about the orange wire it is for the headlights, for the time being.
You do not need them and most don't work in any case.
You should now be ready to mow but double check by pulling the black wire off the magneto and checking it for voltage engine off, engine on & engine running ( yes it will run without the wire attached ).
If there was no voltage on the black wire and it reads open circuit to ground switch in start & on position and closed to ground switch in the off position you are right to mow.
As for the lights, with the AC lights the ignition. the stator is hard wired into the lights and the light switch makes a ground connection.
Because the stator has a diode on it this set up can not back feed and flatten the battery when the engine is turned off.
Now you have a DC only system, if you want lights they will have to be wired up as a new circuit.
Exactly how this is done depends upon which ignition switch you have and how it switches so the simplist & easiest thing to do is to ground the globes then put a toggle switch between a wire from the battery to the lights.
Some tap into the grey carb wire so they automatically turn off when the ignition is turned off.