Briggs and Stratton Fuel pumps

Something worth checking on the Husqvarna if you have the single throttle choke control, Make sure the choke is closing all the way. They have a tendency to slip the throttle cable at the clamp preventing the choke from working correctly and will cause hard starting. If you crank the engine and remove the carb bowl and it has fuel in it I seriously doubt the problem is the fuel pump. I would be looking at other causes. The Briggs pumps only put out like 1.5 lbs, so all they have to do is keep the carb bowl full.
 
If you really want a square pump the there are thousands out there, you just have to know where to look and what to look for.
Walbro , Klien, & Mikuni made the square pumps.
So all you have to do is search "Walbro Impulse Pump"
There is a reason why Briggs stopped using them.............................cheapskates demanded cheaper engines , so they got cheaper engines.
A funny by product of capitalism is this weird idea that everything thet I want has to get cheaper every year, and it does , in more ways than one.
So here is your problem solving square pump, but at these prices ( $ 60 ) I doubt you will buy 2 of them https://www.ebay.com/itm/part-complete-fuel-impulse-pump-4-cycle-walbro-wip-6-US-Seller/380217231178?hash=item5886b6874a:g:H6AAAOSwjDZYf8bi
Randy, who specializes in obsolete parts also has the rebuild kits which I have never seen because the rebuild kit is more expensive than a brand new pump but you might want to buy 2 of these as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-WIP-Series-Impulse-Fuel-Pump-Rebuild-Repair-Overhaul-Kit-New-Genuine/150864750521?hash=item23203d67b9:g:-LUAAOxy63FS1piF

Neither of these will fix your problem but as you are totally fixated by the absolute garbage new round fuel pumps you may as well urinate $ 100 up the wall then come back and we will guide you through properly diagnosing your carb problems.
Having made a jack-*** of yourself if you are too embarassed to admit you were wrong then pop over to outdoor power equipment http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ and go through the carb cleaning photos.
 
bertsmobile1 said:
Neither of these will fix your problem but as you are totally fixated by the absolute garbage new round fuel pumps you may as well urinate $ 100 up the wall then come back and we will guide you through properly diagnosing your carb problems.
Having made a jack-*** of yourself if you are too embarassed to admit you were wrong then pop over to outdoor power equipment http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/ and go through the carb cleaning photos.
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The B&S PN for the older style "Rectangular" fuel pumps is 692026....none of which are available, any longer. These are NOT the "Square" pumps you referenced. None of the sites you mentioned have anything even close to a 692026.

Insofar as your Insulting comments about being "Fixated" and making a "Jack***" of myself....I would suggest that it is YOU who is the "Expletive". Having read some of your sarcastic comments to others, I supposed I shouldn't have expected any worthwhile information coming from you.
 
Just remembered, a friend of mine needed a fuel tank and engine shroud for his 60s model engine ( out of production) but he found a NOS -(New Old Stock ) shroud and used tank at a LARGE salvage yard, sorry I can't remember the name, but here's a few sites with "graveyards" to check if they may have what your looking to get in a pump, of course it pays to "drill-down" ( going the bottom of the page and clicking on the numbered pages AND other links then doing the same thing on those links and pages, ( I myself have been successful at finding things that way, BUT it IS time consuming and requires determination, whatever you decide to do in this quest you are on, Good Luck, Boobala

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1...j0i13i30k1j0i8i13i30k1j33i160k1.0.itP0KMa-A0E

https://www.google.com/search?q=riding+lawn+mower+salvage+parts&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

https://www.google.com/search?q=law...jXAhWLv1QKHRz7A9cQ1QIIsgEoBQ&biw=1151&bih=612
 
BlazNT said:
Forgot to post this as well.
View attachment 34865
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Yup, thanks for looking...I've seen these on the Net, unfortunately they do not replace the Old PN of 692026....which is only replaced by the new style "round" pumps. I had rebuilt the old pump on my generator a couple of times over the years, with the rebuild kits that are still quite available....unfortunately, the body on my old pump developed a crack and I couldn't fix it with anything I tried, so I went with the new round pump. One of the other posters mentioned some motor salvage yards, and I know of a couple of shops in this area which rebuild mowers, and small engines, so I will stop by them and see if they have one of these old pumps...I still have at least one rebuild kit. For now, I've just drilled a hole in the air cleaner cover, and give the air filter a quick shot of starter fluid, and it starts up on the 1st or 2nd pull....without the fluid, I have to yank the rope 15 or 20 times. I did replace the carburetor about 4 months ago, and it made no difference. It's no big deal....just a bit frustrating. On the Husqvarna, which has the same pump, everything looks ok...including the choke fully closing...but it has the same aggravation when starting...and the owners manual even says it may take up to 15 seconds for the engine to fire...which is a good indication that this round pump is also getting into the act on the mower. I can live with all this...I just thought perhaps someone else has noticed a problem with these pumps, and might have a suggestion...which is why I posted.
 
Yes humble pie time.
You did say rectangular in the first post not square so I misread it from the start.
Never had a problem with any fuel pump other than not working due to a stuffed diaphragm and never had a problem with the round pump apart from the one clogged up with gum.
A leak in the head gasket will also make the engine difficult to start cold but start quite fine when hot as will a leaking valve.

To isolate the problem try using an alternative fuel tank suspended as high as you can over the engine to give the best pressure head possible.
If the problem persists then the problem is not with the supply pressure which as you have already been told is in the order of 2 PSI.

As for sarcasim, yes I tend to be direct, it is a cultural thing we don't go tippy toeing around down here smiling to some ones face while cursing them behind their backs.
I can and have been quite wrong and will be wrong in the future but 2 others have also mentioned it is unlikely to be your pump and we all know exactly how these impulse pumps work.
Sometimes it takes getting some ones back up to force them to take a step back from whatever is fixating their attention

As for you Husqvarna if it is fitted with an Intek then there is a better than average chance it has a leaky head gasket, I come across the odd one that had been leaking from new.
If it is fitted with a Kohler Courage then again good chance it is leaking pressure for the top plate which comes loose at the 4 bolts near the cylinder.
If it has a different model engine I have no common hard start problems other than the control cable slipping which has already been mentioned.

When I took over this workshop there was no spare fuel pumps so I bought 10 of them being sure they would fail regularly I still have 9 wasting space on the shelf.
There is around 400 mowers in the service run and around 350 of them run the current spec round fuel pump and the only one that needed replacing was simply gummed up.

Believe it or not most who are on this list are here to either be helped or to help others or both and knocking yourself out to fix a problem that you don't actually have is something that we collectively try to prevent.
Things like leaking head gaskets, if caught early are an easy & relatively cheap fix but if left unattended for extended periods can be very expensive.
Just finished doing a mini digger that had a loose head bolt originally but this escallated to a $ 1100 repair because nothing was done till the engine would no longer start USING STARTER FLUID .
The small leak in the head had erroded a deep groove in both the cylinder & head eventually burning out 3" of the head gasket. This caused the head to run hot requiring a complete replacement and the block has to be welded then machined and a new piston.
To the user, these thing are like old age, they slowly creep up on you, the engine gets harder & harder to start, but it always starts in the end & the engine gets louder & louder but unless you go directly from a new one to an old one you don't notice because it is happening slowly.
 
I have an Ariens mower with the mod 407777 Briggs 2cly INTEK in it .. I have followed the path that many on here have with the fuel system ... The mower has 60 hours total time on it and the fuel problem was progressive .. When it was new .. set the choke hit the started and it fired right up ... Now it will almost crank the battery dead before it starts .. Unless I pull off the cover and pour in some fuel and it will start right up ...
Like many I replaced the fuel pump .. And while it was apart I was getting plenty of flow gravity fed from the tank ..
One thing I noticed on the original pump there was a cap on the center line which is a vacuum source I assume .. And after changing the pump I still have the problem and sometimes it feels like it's running out of fuel while mowing .. Which it didn't do before with or without the cap on the vac line ...
Where can I get a diagram and explanation of the fuel system ?
And I've always ran fresh Ethanol free gas with stabilizer in it from new
Also does this Briggs motor need battery power to run or just to start ? It's the original battery in the mower that's always had a tender on it .. It turns it over fine but it does ware down trying to start the mower the way it is now
 
racer2012 said:
I have an Ariens mower with the mod 407777 Briggs 2cly INTEK in it .. I have followed the path that many on here have with the fuel system ... The mower has 60 hours total time on it and the fuel problem was progressive .. When it was new .. set the choke hit the started and it fired right up ... Now it will almost crank the battery dead before it starts .. Unless I pull off the cover and pour in some fuel and it will start right up ...
Like many I replaced the fuel pump .. And while it was apart I was getting plenty of flow gravity fed from the tank ..
One thing I noticed on the original pump there was a cap on the center line which is a vacuum source I assume .. And after changing the pump I still have the problem and sometimes it feels like it's running out of fuel while mowing .. Which it didn't do before with or without the cap on the vac line ...
Where can I get a diagram and explanation of the fuel system ?
And I've always ran fresh Ethanol free gas with stabilizer in it from new
Also does this Briggs motor need battery power to run or just to start ? It's the original battery in the mower that's always had a tender on it .. It turns it over fine but it does ware down trying to start the mower the way it is now
Click to expand...

Battery is needed to "open" the fuel shut-off solenoid, if equipped with one, and power the starter.
 
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