stuck rear wheel
- Thread starter wheelie
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Don't use too much force.
A good penetrating oil front & back,
Tap off tap on tap off tap on tap off eventually it will come off.
About 1 in 10 will just not budge so the box gets split with the wheels still on the shaft & then the shaft can be pressed out.
When you get it back on grease the axel.
Marine grease is good for this.
Then do the other side. They should be done every few years or so.
A good penetrating oil front & back,
Tap off tap on tap off tap on tap off eventually it will come off.
About 1 in 10 will just not budge so the box gets split with the wheels still on the shaft & then the shaft can be pressed out.
When you get it back on grease the axel.
Marine grease is good for this.
Then do the other side. They should be done every few years or so.
reynoldston
Lawn Pro
Another idea would be to split the hub with a cutting wheel to remove it. Then install a used wheel off of E-Bay. If you are removing the wheel to change the tire, it is a little tricky but the tire can be changed right on the tractor.
reynoldston
Lawn Pro
thanks for the thoughts.. I think I am going to leave tires on and try to put a tube in.
That is a good plan :thumbsup:
Hello, I just joined and can relate to your problem. I have a Yard Machines and it had a froze up brake. I couldn't get the rear wheels off. So here is what I did. I removed the transaxle with wheels still attached. I stood up the transaxle on one of the wheels. I sprayed PB blaster into the axle area where it meets the wheel on the inside. Flipped it over and did the other wheel. I waited awhile to see if it penetrated. Gave a second dose. Then layer both wheels on the surface and took a ruler mallet and started hitting the tire on the inside and turning the wheel. It eventually broke the wheel loose from the axle and removed. Did the same to the other wheel. Sanded the axles with some 1000 wet dry and greased them well before reinstalling. Good luck.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
One of the first jobs that cam into the workshop was a 3 legged LTH1842 ( AYP )
The right rear was flat and the trailer was not available .
The wheel would not come off so they tied it to the truck and drove away.
It came off, so did the axel.
They hammered it back in and mowed the acres only turning right or the wheel would fall out.
The bill went around $ 700
The right rear was flat and the trailer was not available .
The wheel would not come off so they tied it to the truck and drove away.
It came off, so did the axel.
They hammered it back in and mowed the acres only turning right or the wheel would fall out.
The bill went around $ 700
Carscw
Lawn Pro
This is really not a problem.
Do not try and knock the wheel off by hitting the back side.
Here are two easy ways to get the wheel off without breaking anything.
If you have a propane torch heat the axle and wheel and melt wax in between them. Let cool and slide the wheel off.
Flip mower on its side. Put a strap around the wheel and lift the mower off the ground by the strap. So the wheel Is holding the mower up. Put a rod or bolt on the shaft and hit with a hammer.
Do not try and knock the wheel off by hitting the back side.
Here are two easy ways to get the wheel off without breaking anything.
If you have a propane torch heat the axle and wheel and melt wax in between them. Let cool and slide the wheel off.
Flip mower on its side. Put a strap around the wheel and lift the mower off the ground by the strap. So the wheel Is holding the mower up. Put a rod or bolt on the shaft and hit with a hammer.
reynoldston
Lawn Pro
I have herd of this before but never tried it. What do you use just candle wax?
I'm not talking about bagging the h@ll out it. Hitting an inflated tire is not like hitting a solid rim. The PB blaster is the trick by standing the axle in its end and letting in leach into the axle to loosen the rust. It does most of the work. But you have to put the axle in a position to allow it to penetrate.you guys are making far more to this than needed.