Please point in correct direction for ZTR or stand-behind mower
- Thread starter katit
- Start date
Shughes717
Lawn Addict
That's too steep for the raptor, but some dealer will let you test their product at your home. If you are interested in one then I suggest talking to your local dealer and see if they will let you try it out on your lawn before you buy. Test as many as you can before you buy. Ric is 100% correct that the raptor would give you the cut you are looking for. Any of the brands with a commercial deck will give you the cut quality.
Ric
Lawn Pro
Actually there's not much in the price range he is talking about with a good transmission. If he used the raptor and mowed the slope starting from the bottom and working across the slope always turning up the slope he wouldn't have an issue with the transmission and with the 52" he would have a 23hp Kawasaki so he would have plenty of power.
I found some Raptor dealers around, will check them out. Where can I read on how ZTR's actually work? You talk about tranny, steering, etc. I know in my tractor I have hydraulic deck lift, I have separate hydrostatic tranny and power steering.
I have some wet spots in a yard, mowing them with a tractor done best if I move fast, I did get suck once... How is ZTR's in those "swampy" areas? What about cutting wet grass? I don't get into wet grass with my tractor, but I see pro's doing it just fine. Rarely I see clumps on my neighbours yards...
Ric is correct, this <3k Raptor is probably maximum I want to spend. They do 0% which is excellent too. Do those dealers negotiate like car dealers do? What kind of price off from MSRP I can expect?
Paying pro's to cut is basically every week. But I cut less(I think). When grass growing I might cut every 5 days or so and in a middle of summer I may cut once in 2 weeks. I use tractor 20hr per year MAX. I do think I may need bagger as well as it may help with leafs during a season.
Going little off-topic, what is the best preffered way to take care of leafs? I have big trees and as I mentioned takes 4hr non-stop blowing with backpack Makita (4 cycle) that I have. I blow leafs into piles and then use tarp to move them to the street. I see pros doing it both ways. Some people use blowers, but some use mowers, If it's done regulardly (every week) than not much leafs left after cutting. Does that sound correct? Will I be able to do it with Raptor?
I have some wet spots in a yard, mowing them with a tractor done best if I move fast, I did get suck once... How is ZTR's in those "swampy" areas? What about cutting wet grass? I don't get into wet grass with my tractor, but I see pro's doing it just fine. Rarely I see clumps on my neighbours yards...
Ric is correct, this <3k Raptor is probably maximum I want to spend. They do 0% which is excellent too. Do those dealers negotiate like car dealers do? What kind of price off from MSRP I can expect?
Paying pro's to cut is basically every week. But I cut less(I think). When grass growing I might cut every 5 days or so and in a middle of summer I may cut once in 2 weeks. I use tractor 20hr per year MAX. I do think I may need bagger as well as it may help with leafs during a season.
Going little off-topic, what is the best preffered way to take care of leafs? I have big trees and as I mentioned takes 4hr non-stop blowing with backpack Makita (4 cycle) that I have. I blow leafs into piles and then use tarp to move them to the street. I see pros doing it both ways. Some people use blowers, but some use mowers, If it's done regulardly (every week) than not much leafs left after cutting. Does that sound correct? Will I be able to do it with Raptor?
Ric
Lawn Pro
Actually there's no ztr or walk-behind that is rated for 25 degree that I know of but to my knowledge the Kawasaki engine is the only engine that I know of that is rated to or operate continuously at angles of up to 25 degrees in any direction. If he is already mowing the hill with the JD he shouldn't have any problem with a 52" Raptor.
Ric
Lawn Pro
You can google ztr operation and come up with tons of information on how to operate a ztr, but the best way to learn is to get on one and drive. The first thing you need to do when you purchase your ZTR is sit down and read the MANUAL from front to back, it will explain a lot. A tip I can give you is when you decide to mow your slope is start from the bottom mowing across the slope and always turn up the slope at the end of every pass never down. Turning down a slope is the fastest way to lose control of a ztr that there is. If you're worried about leafs get a set of Oregon Gator blades (G3 or G5) and use them and you wont have a problem with leaf build up.
Thank you for this video link. At 6:25 they show slope that looks just like the one I have. Doesn't seem to be a problem at all..
I read online but is there any break-down on features that commercial ZTR might have and residentials don't? I understand deck construction, heavy duty engines, etc. But there is something about suspensions, different drive motors?
I read online but is there any break-down on features that commercial ZTR might have and residentials don't? I understand deck construction, heavy duty engines, etc. But there is something about suspensions, different drive motors?
Ric
Lawn Pro
you really don't want that thing,especially for that price. It's a 2001 and it probably didn't cost that new. It's a belt drive with the peerless transmission. Honestly that unit in 2001 probably cost the price he is asking now. It's worth about 5 or 600$ with the sulky max.
Shughes717
Lawn Addict
Yes some commercial mowers have suspensions, and the hydros are heavier which will handle hills much better, but that is out of your price range. Test on your lawn before you buy. Would suck to pay $3000 for a mower that won't mow your whole lawn. I know from experience that residential ztr mowers don't do well on hills, but you will have to find out for your self. I always recommend that people test the product on their lawn before they buy if at all possible.