Cub Cadet RZT50 - bad PTO clutch?

dukes909

Forum Newbie
Early model Cub Cadet RZT50: 17AA5D7P756. First PTO switch went bad, replaced, ran great. Then starter key switch went bad, replaced. Mowed for an hour yesterday after installing new starter key switch and PTO cut off by itself. Tested PTO switch and no continuity in connections 1, 4. 4 runs to PTO clutch, so am I right in assuming the clutch is bad and causing these switches to short? (I bypassed the reverse safety switches sometime ago, so I know it is not these causing the PTO to not run).

Dukester

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Testing the clutch itself is easy enough, just unplug it and hook it up directly to the battery, if it is ok, it will give a nice healthy "clunk".

Of course make the last connection to ground on the frame, away from the battery and gasoline, etc...
 
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Testing the clutch itself is easy enough, just unplug it and hook it up directly to the battery, if it is ok, it will give a nice healthy "clunk".

Thanks - if I get a "thunk" and the PTO clutch then is deemed working, and I buy a new PTO switch and it too burns out, what should I be looking at then? i.e. 2 bad starter switches, 2 bad PTO switches,..something else has to be causing this or is it just wild coincidence? I have checked continuity and voltage between all connections and cannot find any breaks in the wiring.
 
Thanks - if I get a "thunk" and the PTO clutch then is deemed working, and I buy a new PTO switch and it too burns out, what should I be looking at then? i.e. 2 bad starter switches, 2 bad PTO switches,..something else has to be causing this or is it just wild coincidence? I have checked continuity and voltage between all connections and cannot find any breaks in the wiring.

From the blowup, your clutch looks adjustable, set the clearance to .012 and see what happens, if the plates are where they should be, then it won't pull as much current.
 
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